Prius (Gen 3) :: P Lock Malfunction When Parking / Can't Shift Into D
Jun 5, 2016
We purchased a used 2012 a couple of months ago and have had no issues with it. A few weeks ago it was in an accident and mostly sat at the body shop for the next two weeks. Got it back a week ago and seemed to work fine for commuting for the next week. Then let it sit for two days and then the next day drove it for a few short trips over a couple of hours. Everything seemed fine. Next morning it won't start. "P lock malfunction when parking, park in flat place and apply parking brake securely. Shift to P position and push power switch to turn off". Cannot shift into D; can shift into N; pushing P button doesn't illuminate the LED on the button or move it out of N.
Searching this error indicates often caused by failing 12V battery, and I can see that might be the problem given the age and the abuse the battery has taken the last few weeks. The battery reads 11.84V when car is off and 11.45V when "on" showing the error. I can replace the 12V battery. Is there some other simple diagnostic I can do?
Alternate explanations are, something got buggered in the accident that didn't surface until now or the groundhog we shooed out from under the car right before it wouldn't start was chewing on something.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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Error messages on my dash were originally the triangle exclamation and - p lock malfunction when parking , park in a flat place and apply parking brake securely ....
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I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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I replaced my standard parking lights with LEDs. The passenger side was a snap and super easy took all of a minute. The driver's side wasn't so. It was easy to get out and replaced the bulb with the same type as the passenger, however I can't get the bloody thing to lock in the hole.
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I have just bought a 2001 Prius with 127,550 miles. Hybrid battery has been replaced with a used one and all systems seem to work fine except the shift lever in the "Park" position does not lock the transmission. No big problem as long as the Parking Brake works. Preliminary investigation does not reveal any easy fix.
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I live in the Cleveland area and we got pelted with snow yesterday. For the most part, the car did great. Great traction and visibility while driving on low lit roads...It was only 28 degrees so it threw the warning for black ice which caught me off guard lol.
Then as I'm going to stop I hear beep beep beep beep beep!!!!
The parking sensors start saying there's something in front of me within inches....yet there's nothing within 50 feet. Every time I went under 10mph it kept doing this...well I got home and see that a small layer of snow was covering the sensors. Granted I can turn off the beeping and such but in a place like Cleveland there's usually a ton of snow and I can see this getting annoying really fast. This is my third car with parking sensors and the only one to react to a tiny layer of snow....
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I've read as much info as I'm willing to digest and everything seemed to point at the switch. Replaced switch. I went through a recommended adaption sequence and I'm back to square one. warning light for [P] - traction control light - display says Parking Brake Fault See Owners Manual. And there are codes for Parking Brake Control Head Electronic Malfunction...
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i have a problem with my passat.everything was perfect with my alarm and my doors.
one time i went to my car, start my engine, and then this BEEP BEEP BEEP was the whole time, and first i didn't know what that is. and then i turned on my headlight on and the notice god more and it did BEEEEEEEEEEP. the light inside my car did not turn off. after few minutes looking around, i recognized that my car things that i didn't closed my door, but i did. and my alarm doesn't work too, because it things my door is not closed, and it doesn't want to lock it!! what should i do? My car things that my car is open the whole time.
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I get in my car this morning, start it and in my MFI for a brief second or two, it flashes Wheel Lock Malfunction, going to do a vagcom scan after work. But sure enough, my steering column no longer locks.
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Brand new 2011 tiguan SEL with the Kessy keyless entry and ignition system. Today it wouldn't start. Had it over at my brothers house, vsited for a bit and then were heading out to dinner. The steering wheel light on the tach face was flashing red and beeping at me. Foot on the brake, finger on the engine start/stop button and nothing - the red steering wheel icon just flashes and beeps. The frustrating part was since the car is brand new, I had the owners manual on the dining room table at my house, an hour away It was just a few minutes after 6, so I was unable to get anyone in the service dept at the dealer I bought it from. Luckily, the salesperson returned my call (go Francisco!) and grabbed a manual from another Tiguan to tell me what the flashing light means. Basically, it means the car won't start. Very frustrating, the car has 268 miles on it and is only 6 days old. Having it towed back to the dealer for diagnoses and repair. CSB?
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I was having intermittent problems with my key fob. I replaced several times, but still had problems with it not working. (A real joy when the alarm is armed). Recently, the driver's door switch (lock/unlock) failed completely. All of a sudden, the key fob is working perfectly (so far) again. Could the failing switch have been causing the fob malfunction all along? I'd like to use the fob, but I'm not fond of the part where the car is alarmed and it won't disengage.
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I've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
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The power door lock switches, on both driver and passenger doors, only functions to lock the door but will not unlock. When either switch is depressed to lock, both function with no problem. But when depressing either side button to unlock, there is absolutely no activity at all. Like there is no current reaching either one. This happened once about a week ago, but my son came along and just kept pressing the passenger side button and it came back to life after 5 or 6 tries. But now the same problem has recurred and it will not resolve.
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Driving at cruising speed in 3 or D, encounter a hill and the truck shudders and bucks in same gear... then will finally downshift and everything is fine. The high miles 232k may be the issue of course. But does this thing have a vacuum modulator or something on the transmission that I can replace besides the fluid and filter that will fix this reluctant down shifting problem?
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Today, driving the car around town it was suddenly really hard to shift in/out of first when the car was stopped. Driving, no problem at all. Then within the ~15-minute drive, it got progressively worse.
Got the car home, checked and noticed that my HPA short shifter was wearing out (the splines), so I threw on the stock piece and figured everything would be ok... not the case. Here's what's going on:
- When the car is off, I can shift through all gears easily (and into the proper gears as far as I can see.. which tells me that shifter alignment should also be fine)
- When the car is off, and (for example) I have the car in 1st - I can let off the ebrake and the car doesn't roll (it's in gear), when I press the clutch, it will roll
- When the car is RUNNING, I can't shift in/out of any gears at all. This morning it was just really tough, and it was actually easier if I didn't have the clutch pedal all the way to the floor.. but now I can't at all if the car is running
- No signs of anything leaking under the car
- The car is APR Stg 3 and I have about 50k miles on a stage 2 clutch. Prior to this, I didn't notice any slipping, weird noises when shifting, etc.
Sound like either master/slave clutch cylinder? Or more like a clutch issue itself?
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I recently had some engine repairs done to my 2007 Sonata. When I got the car back, I found that when I hit the remote lock button, the parking lights no longer flash and the horn doesn't sound when hitting the lock button a second time. I am guessing when they disconnected the battery, maybe it turned off the feature. Is there any way to reset the feature without having to go to the dealer?
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Using a line lock as a parking brake? Going to switch to 4 wheel disc wont have parking brake.
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2016 push button start, need to confirm something? It's cold up here in these parts this time of year and I have been letting my car run for a few minutes when it's frosted over in the morning. The issue I'm having is that I start the car and go back into the house. When I come back out to get in, The driver's door is unlocked but the rest of the doors are not. When I press the unlock button on the key fob, nothing happens. Is this how it's supposed to work or do I have an issue?
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