Prius (Gen 3) :: Opening A Door With A Broken Lock Mechanism?
Dec 2, 2012
My 2011 Prius apparently had a broken lock actuator on the driver's door, and knowing that the dealer would charge me over $500 for installation of a new actuator, I decided to order a new $5 motor off of ebay, and change the little motor inside the actuator myself. Everything was going fine until I put everything back together, and gave it a try. Now my door won't unlock at all. All of the other doors work fine. I've tried the little key from the keyfob, and turning it kinda feels mushy. My guess is that something is wrong with my re-installation of the cables.
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1999 Suburban
Although the key slides into the lock easily, it's a bear to turn the key left and right. I tried squirting some graphite into the key hole and working it with the key but that didn't do much if anything.
Is there a way to lube the internals that a homeowner--not mechanic--can do?
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I have a persistent prob with the lock mechanism on the rear door of my mk4 golf, I don't suppose there is a picture tutorial on this subject. I have looked but can only find for the front door.
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My car occasionally locks me out! When I lock the car using the driver's side automatic lock, it works fine, but then it won't let me back in. My repair shop says the left-side locking mechanism needs to be replaced but they can't get the part. The car is a 1992 Cadillac Brougham that I've had since new. The car is in great shape and runs like a top.
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Can I disable the automatic door lock mechanism? Maybe pull a fuse? All of a sudden the locks start locking and unlocking over and over and the lights dim. I would like to disable the automatic and use the key to lock and unlock the doors. It is a 2002, F-250-Super Duty 4x4 SuperCab.
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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I own a 2005 prius that I purchased used this year. This morning I had my first issue. I turned on the car and it gave me the following error message:
"Transmission p lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car in a flat place and apply parking brake completely."
The parking break wasn't on and I was already parked in a basically flat parking space. I couldn't move my car because it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or neutral. (The car turned on, but the engine wouldn't start). I tried turning the car off, but the car also wouldn't turn off. I let the car sit for 5 minutes then tried again and the car turned off. When it turned back on, everything was fine.
My questions is: Do I need to bring this into a mechanic? The car seems to work fine now, but I don't want to be stranded again or do damage to the car by driving it with an issue.
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After trying to start my '08 Prius, the following message appears on my touch screen about 2-3 times a month: "The transmission PARK lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely". I try to patiently wait it out while I apply the parking brake, unapply it etc. Finally, all dash lights will go out, and I can then start the car.
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A month or two ago I started getting the error message on my screen while driving. There is a problem with the Transmission P lock mechanism. Park you car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake. After reading up on the error, I replaced the 12-volt battery. (it was the original)
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My 2005 Prius has about 140,000 miles. I had been getting the intermittent warning message, "Caution: The transmission lock mechanism is abnormal" although the vehicle has been able to start and drive just fine. I replaced the 12v battery, which was suggested in several other threads. However, the warning keeps reappearing. Possibly related, my gear shift knob is "sticky". I'm able to get it into each gear (and the transmission remains in the gear selected), but the knob does not move smoothly like it used to.
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Went to open my trunk today with a normal amount of force and this happened. I can push it back into place but every time I try to open it again it does this. It's still attached on the lefthand side.
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I'm looking to replace my drivers side door lock actuator. Looking for detailed photos explaining the process?
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A while back my driver side door lock mech broke and the key literally would turn 360 degrees. The same day I looked out and all the windows were down. I put them up confused but then five minutes later they were down again.
Who would have guessed that the mech that unlocks the door also puts down the windows? Certainly not me. Is this feature normal? After fixing the door lock windows stay up but it was a learning experience.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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Noticed a noise that begins upon opening the passenger door? It lasts for about ten seconds then stops. Is it by chance a battery ventilation fan or something related? Just curious.
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I would like all the doors to unlock when i open the drivers door. The manual is a little confusing on how to do this or if you can.
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Each time I open the driver door, when the car is off, I hear a buzzing coming from the front (left?) of the car. It sounds like something electrical. What is it and is it normal? Assuming it's normal, I like it because it's kind of like the Prius saying hi and it reminds me I now have a unique (and fun) car. But what is it? Am I wasting battery with something I've left configured?
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Recently bought a 2010 Toyota Prius 1.8 and it was working very well. It used to display a message saying that the key battery is low. Then one day, the smart key stopped opening the door. After some reading on the forums, decided that the smart key battery might be really low, so used the mechanical key to get in and tried to start the car by placing the Toyota logo of the smart key on the power button. Since nothing happened, decided to replace the batteries anyways. After the replacement, tried again, but zip. The doors still won't unlock, and the proximity switch-on also is not working. Why? Is it an issue with the 12-v battery?
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I have Toyota Prius 2006. Last night suddenly the rear right door didn't open from inside and it still doesn't want to open from inside. It opens from outside OK but is not opening from inside regardless what we are trying to do. It only one door misbehaves, the right rear door. How to fix this problem and why it happened?
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One morning last week I opened the car door and it started to beep real loud - like an alarm set off (I don't have an alarm system in my car) - It lasted 30 seconds. I went about driving the car and it ran fine. I stopped at a place - went out and came back to drive out again. As soon as I opened the door the alarm went off again. This time it lasted 20 seconds. I have not had the issue since then -(a week gone). What could be wrong. I know it happened and will happen again. I don't know if battery is low - everything works fine and car is running like a charm. battery indicator shows full when on the road. I can't recreate the problem.
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Found the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
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