Prius (Gen 3) :: Oil Filter Tool Getting Stuck To Oil Filter Cap
May 30, 2015
Did my own 30k oil filter change today after taking it to the dealership for 10k and 20k. What do you know, they over torqued the crap out of the filter that I had to use my 1/2" breaker bar and all my strength to remove it. After all of that somehow the oil filter tool (the typical one) ended up getting stuck to the oil filter cap. It was at a slight angle so it must have shifted as I was trying to loosen it with the breaker bar.
Well, spent the next hour trying to separate them with no luck. Didn't want to damage the filter housing, and since the tool was stuck on there good just decided to put it back on with the tool attached. Any concerns about leaving it on, other than it randomly falling off one day?
Hopefully I'll still find the tool attached next time I change my oil, maybe pick up an extra oil filter cap and tool just in case. Btw I changed it myself at 5k before doing the free changes at dealership. Another reason I won't let them touch my car again...
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Changing tranny fluid/filter today, all has been going great until I went to take the filter o-ring out that didn't come with the filter. It will not come out! made a hook tool out of an old tooth brush like someone on here did, o-ring wont budge. Tried a hook pick, it wont dudge (actually bent the tip on the pick and started to tear the o-ring). Everything is ready to go back together and get filled, but this stupid o-ring will not come out!
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I have a 2003 Ford f 250 turbo diesel 7.3lt V/8,is there a tool to undo the cap on the fuel filter as i have problems every time i service the truck.
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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On my previous 1992 F-350, when I serviced the E40D 2WD trans I replaced the filter during a trans service. I read about some filters falling down inside pan causing shifting issues. There is an aftermarket clip sold that holds the filter in the up position and prevents it from falling into pan.
Is the clip also used on the 2WD 4R100? is it the same issue of potentially falling down in pan as was the case with the E40D? Preparing to service my 2003 F-350 2WD 4R100 and install a new filter and want to be sure I have all parts/supplies ready to go.
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I am going to install a coolant filter on my 2004 6.0 E350 van. I have read threads about bypass filters and full flow filters and I started asking myself "Why use a bypass when I can filter all of the coolant?"
Is there any reason why someone should use a bypass filter? I bought the van used knowing I would eventually have to do most if not all of the 6.0 repairs. IPR sells a complete coolant filter.
I talked with the people at FICM repair and they suggested I do my research but leaned towards the IPR cooler. Ed spent a good 30 minutes on the phone answering all my questions and never asked if I wanted to buy anything. If anything, he was trying to stop me from throwing money at the van until I isolated what needs to be repaired.
I already bought the Sinister Kit and requested a return.
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98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
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I am attempting to change my fuel filter - have a new Napa unit complete with new lid.
I can not get the old one off (this alone tells me it's been on there too long). The hex is 26mm and all I have is a 26mm box end. It just rounds the corners of the plastic hex off.
As the new filter has a new lid, I am using a steel chisel and hammer (in a CCW direction) at several places on the top flange. I have also smacked the top flange liberally to get it to let go of whatever is holding it.
I'm about to get out my map torch out and warm up the plastic but would rather not produce a flame on something with fuel directly behind it.
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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I had a surprise this morning when I attempted to put in a new Cabin Air Filter. These filters look square at first glance, but are actually rectangular -- about 7-3/4" x 8-3/8" or so.
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While the obvious enough solution would be to simply rotate the new filter 90* before putting it into the plastic carrier, this is impossible since the plastic carrier has a divider that runs parallel to the pleats.
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