Prius (Gen 3) :: Oil Door Removed From Engine Under Cover
Aug 4, 2015
The engine under cover had the oil door removed before I bought the car. Purchased used in 2012 (CPO). The cover hangs down in the middle now. The car was already past the mileage for the engine under cover TSB.
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Before I changed my driver's lock module, when I removed my key and opened the door, the car would still have power to close the sunroof and windows, but now with the new module once I open the door the power's all off. I have to resort to everything closing when I lock the car (KVW100).
Why this is happening and how I can revert to being able to close the windows without having to leave the key in? Not that it's a huge issue; just felt it was a nicer convenience how it used to be.
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Today, on the way to the Lego User Meeting in Virginia driving at 65 mph in the morning on 495 - the oil change access door of my 2010 Prius III engine cover/ splash shield ( part 51410-12101) popped off - it made a popping noise when it broke. Couldn't stop because I was in the middle of a superhighway. It was half way off when I got to the meeting in VA. The Prius is so low - the shield was impossible to reach without a lift. On my way back home to Maryland, the oil change access door fell off completely albeit I didn't see or hear it fall off. My 3 year warranty is up and I have +38000 miles on the odometer so I'm pass the TSB 0032-11 coverage now. I've raised my car on Monday _ nothing else is damage - san a missing oil change access door.
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I have removed the 15" wheel covers from my 2012 Prius since they interfered with accessing both the lug nuts and the tire stem (what a stupid, cheap wheel cover design), and replaced them with 2.5" center caps to protect the axle threads from corrosion. Although I didn't rigorously compare mpg before and after removing the wheel covers, on a recent out-and-back trip with the new center caps installed, the Prius averaged 56.5 mpg on a hilly, 240 mile course, at a speed of 66 mph (dry road, not very windy, air temp about 75F, cruise control employed, no hypermiling techniques). I was quite pleasantly surprised at the high mpg (even better than I typically get with my 07 Prius on that same trip), and can't imagine that the mpg could be much better with the wheel covers on.
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I am happy owner of a 740 1987 4 door sedan. How to solve the problem: the engine do not stop when ignition key is removed.
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Just poking around under the hood of my new car. Removed the oil fill cap while the engine was running and it promptly sputtered and died. I've done that countless times on non-turbo engines to get a better listen to the valve train, and never had an engine die on me, including my B5.5 V6. Put the fill cap back on and it cranked right up and idled normally again. No CEL or other lights. Is that normal?
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I've removed 3 bolts ( Headlight assembly removal)and loosened the number cover to be gridlocked by something I cannot see or just a bit more friction than the amount of force I'm willing to give for fear of breaking something.
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I removed my key and was about to go to the store but when i walked across my car, I noticed my engine was still running. I go to place my hand on my good and it is still running with my key in my hand. I go back into the car and realized some of the dash lights are still on. Key still removed. Gear shifter is locked. I step on my brake pedal to see if that will shut it off and it still doesnt work and is left on. Only way to turn off the car is to disconnect the battery.
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On Monday evening my wife left our 2010 Prius Gen III without pressing the "off" button. She took the keys with her and she claims that she locked the car.
On Wednesday morning I noticed that the dashboard panel was switched on and I deduced that the Prius has been running all the time, with the ICE engine kicking in now and then to keep up the Hybrid battery level. A quick call to my dealer confirmed this, and also the fuel consumption average was in line: 14 l/100 km on a 20 Km trip (my average is 3.9 -4.2 l/100km...).
I was very surprised to discover that the Prius does not switches off when the key is removed (i.e. taken far away from the car). This seems to me a sort of engineering flaw.
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I installed seat covers which required removing my entire rear bench cushion. Now I can't get it to snap back into place. It's the 2 inserts beneath and in front of where each passenger's crotch would be that are causing the trouble.
To release said snaps, I had to pull up with a lot of force, so I figured to snap them back in, I could just slam my knee down right above but no dice -and I made full use of my 163 lbs and gravity multiple times.
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I have a 2010 ford f-150. My fuel door swings loose and the cover came off on the highway. Where I can get another one? I need to replace the whole thing.
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The noise seems routine. It happens when you get close to the car and open your door. I guess the car is anticipating that you will start the car soon and under the hood, some subtle mechanical noises occur. Just wondering what that noise is?
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I have a 2010 model and have had this issue for the past year. When I open the drivers door I get an immediate buzzzzz sound from the engine that can last 10 to 30 seconds or so. What is this???
I believe it is somehow associated with ignition issues This last winter (in Texas) I have had to push the start button sometimes several times before the engine would startup. I brought it into the dealer and left it overnight. Of course there were no problems when they started it the next day. Anyway, I have noticed a worsening of startup problems (none in the summer) along with an increase in this buzzzzz sound. Is it just my imagination?
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How to remove the plastic engine cover on the 2.5 liter engine? I am trying to do the "Big 3" but don't want to break the cover.
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Thinking of cleaning up the engine bay of my Passat 3.6 V6. How to remove the engine cover of a Passat 3.6 V6? For asian cars, it is fairly straightforward.
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Found the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
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When the car runs at a certain RPM during idle, the door panel rattles/buzzes. This is usually when the car is first started. The idle speed changes at some point as it warms up and then it no longer rattles. Sometimes it also buzzes during acceleration when the engine hits a certain RPM or when driving on coarse spots in the road.
It has been very difficult to reproduce it at the dealership because there seems to be no way to control when the engine runs and to control the RPM. On top of that, it is affected by ambient temperature. If it is isn't cold enough, it doesn't happen. Is there any way to manually control starting and revving the engine? Is there any well-known issue that causes this or a known fix for the buzzing?
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I did it about two years ago following steps on here but i forgot where to hold the engine cover to take it off, it can be broken if done incorrectly so where to grab that cover to pull it off?
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This morning after pulling out of the garage, i notice a small wet spot on the floor, went to see what it was and it was oil, its was a wierd shade of red/orange and very clear, def not engine oil. Then looked under a car and saw it where it came from, front driver side, there is a some kind of plastic cover, it was collecting there then dripping out. I can see the oil dripping on the plastic cover when looking from the engine bay? What can it be?
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I'm having trouble removing the plastic engine cover on my 2008 Sonata. I removed the two 10mm nuts on top and can raise the front part up, but the rear won't release...so what's holding it on and how do I release the rear side?
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Here is an image of how to properly remove the engine cover.
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