Prius (Gen 3) :: Never Get To Ready Condition After Pressing Power Button
Nov 12, 2012
2011 Prius with 30,000
At the first start of day when I pressed on brake pedal and got the green light on power button as usual I pressed power button and never got ready condition, trying to figure out what is happening I have had this condition occur almost every morning (outside air temp around 40 degrees F) also when I went to train station to pick up my daughter I shut off for about ten minutes and it happened again.
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This started about 2 months ago. About 10% of the time when I depress the brake and press the Power button, all the dash lights come on except the Ready light (it acts as if I pressed the Power button twice without my foot on the brake). When I depress the brake a second time and press Power button again, the Ready light will still NOT come on. I have to press Power button with foot off the brake to shut off the dash lights (the car is effectively off) and then when I press Power button with foot on brake a second time, the Ready light will come on. I effectively have to try to start the car twice. I also noticed that the interior lights are dimmer when I open the driver's door until it goes through it's normal noisy gyration (something to do with the brakes?). I'm thinking that the 12-volt battery is starting to fail. Does my Gen III 2010 Prius have a diagnostic tool to check the battery?
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2005 Prius, 50K. Newly purchased two weeks ago. Last night, driving into my garage with the ICE off, noticed a noticeable electric or electronic-sounding hum from the engine compartment. With the hood up and looking toward the engine from the front of the car, noise comes from the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the inverter cover.
The noise, a loud hum, appears when pressing the Power button and the brake pedal. It also appears when pressing the Power button twice without pressing the brake pedal. When starting up the car, the hum lowers in pitch significantly (though not in volume) as soon as the Park button is pressed.
When I bought the car, I brought it in to the dealership for a complete checkup. They replaced the inverter coolant pump under the recall notice. Don't know if that's significant. I opened the coolant reservoir cap last night with the motor on, and noticed movement inside, so it appears to be working fine.
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I Learned on a Toyota Avalon web page that you can force your audio system to reboot itself by pressing the power button for three seconds. On the Avalon, it only works on the "Limited" levels. I tried it tonight on my Prius Four and it worked. Great to use when your audio gets "confused" and you just want to clear it and start over.
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I have a 2005 prius with 38,160 miles I started it and shut it off and then tried restarting and now does not want to start. The ready light does not go on and the start button becomes orange.
I checked my 12 volt and it gave a reading of 12.2 volts. These are the engine codes that come up:
U0111 comes up twice
C0200
C1259
C1310
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I've got a 2010 Prius w/ NAV. Yesterday morning, my Prius would not start. When I pressed on the brake, the green "Ready" button would not light up. When I pressed the start button, the NAV screen came on as did some of the dash lights, but the car engine itself was not on. When I hit the start button again, I had a yellow triangle on the left side of my screen that continued to blink.
From reviewing the forum, I believe that the issue is the 12V aux battery. I was able to get my car into maintenance mode, and the 12V battery was reading 8.6V; however, this was after my car had sat in the garage for 10 or so hours. However, by going into maintenance mode, I was again able to get my car to start. This morning, I drove my car to work (about a 15-20 minute drive). After I got to the office, I turned the car off and got back into maintenance mode. This time, it was reading 11.6V on the battery.
Am I correct that this is most likely an issue w/ the 12V battery going bad on me? I purchased my Prius in July 2010, and I have never changed the battery. It sounds like the "typical" lifespan for the battery is right around 4 years, so this seems to make sense.
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On Monday evening my wife left our 2010 Prius Gen III without pressing the "off" button. She took the keys with her and she claims that she locked the car.
On Wednesday morning I noticed that the dashboard panel was switched on and I deduced that the Prius has been running all the time, with the ICE engine kicking in now and then to keep up the Hybrid battery level. A quick call to my dealer confirmed this, and also the fuel consumption average was in line: 14 l/100 km on a 20 Km trip (my average is 3.9 -4.2 l/100km...).
I was very surprised to discover that the Prius does not switches off when the key is removed (i.e. taken far away from the car). This seems to me a sort of engineering flaw.
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On my MPG display if I push the steering wheel button once, I see actual MPG and the numbers jump all over the place depending on how I am driving. Push the button a 2nd time I see avg mpg, push it a third time and I see range how many more miles I can go.
If I push the button a 4th time I see "- - -?".
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My car has been in and out of my mechanics with no resolution to my problem.
When I press my AC button, a number of warning dashboard lights on my dashboard turn on, check engine, oil pressure, abs, air bag (pretty sure all of them). Each time this happens, I have my mechanic clear the warning lights in my dash. And no, the AC does not turn on.
I don't have any warning lights on my dash, and driving the car without pressing the AC button for weeks doesn't trigger any warnings. Once the AC is pressed, I get almost all of them, within a minute. The codes that his computer read are failure to communicate signals.
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Do I have to press a button on the ultimate lockpick every time I want to use the navigation while in motion? If I do have to press a button is there any module out there that will allow me to use the navigation while in motion without having to press a button?
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As the title says the cruise control is not working, the cruise light comes on but no workee after pressing the the set button. I have followed the steps according the the owners manual.
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So when I press auto(physical button) and have my temp at HI or 85, it turns on the AC as well. Why this is? I thought auto was supposed to adjust everything to get it to that temp. AC is also on when I hit the front defrost(physical button).
This is on a 2013 Premium with rear seat controls, and S Flow and 3 Zone is off, if that makes a difference. Maybe I'm missing a setting somewhere, I'm still pretty new to all this coming from a 99 GS 300!
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I managed to replace all the damaged gears and other hard parts in my 2002 E150 transmission 4R70W and did a full rebuild on it after it self-destructed. I did not change the solenoid valves but I now suspect that I should have. It shifts smoothly until you get to the time that overdrive should engage but it doesn't. If you drive a bit at a steady speed around 50 mph the OD light on the shifter will start to flash.
Once you turn it off and restart it, the flashing stops. I did not drive it again to see if it repeats, but I can tell that Overdrive is not engaging. Pressing the OD off button does not seem to change the engine RPM. Is it most likely the solenoid valve or could I have not put it back together right?
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Yesterday I found that I could't lock the Phaeton by pressing the button on the outside door handles .
I could only lock/unlock from the key fob . Is there something I can do to resolve this short of going to a service dept ??
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Today while hanging out in my gt,i I turned on the stereo using the button wheel on the console. I tried to connect my phone using Bluetooth and noticed that it was grayed out and not an option as an input. I noticed pressing the start/stop ignition button was the only way to get the Bluetooth to connect to the car. Im not sure if the Bluetooth is powered separately or I'm doing it wrong. I just wanna use my phone and listen to music without turning on all the lights and car electronics.
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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I tried to start my car with the remote key by pressing the unlock button 3 times and hold on it on the third time. It does not work at all. What is the problem?
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Today I went out to crank my Sonata SE 2.4. Pressing the ignition button only got me a buzzing and no turning of the engine. We've been out of the country for 2 weeks and the car has been in the garage since then. I have a portable battery booster that I attached to the battery and the car started normally. I drove it for around thirty minutes and switched it off in my driveway. Immediately tried to restart and it would not start. Boosted again and headed to Auto Zone to have the battery tested. Battery tested bad so I had it replaced. The car started immediately so I turned it off and tried to restart as a precaution. No go.... boosted again and cranked fine. The new battery tested out good so we decided that maybe the charge could be low or? maybe we just needed to run it some on the interstate.
I now had a cel on. So we get out onto the interstate and drive about two miles and the engine looses power, limp mode ?. Pull to the side of the road and RPM's at only 1500 with the accelerator to the floor. I was afraid to restart the engine that it would possibly not restart and I'd have to be towed.
Luckily, we were about two miles from the Hyundai dealership so we limped there at 20 MPH. The car is at the dealership now being diagnosed.
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So I have a 2010 jetta 2.5 and my key is stuck in the ignition has been for a couple weeks also don't know if it's related but when I start the car I can pull the shifter out of park without pressing shifter button just have to press brake and after I shut the car off if I take it out of park and put it in gear it just freely rolls only stops if it's in park. NOT A DSG
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2010 Prius, ~250k miles, pressing power button to turn off on results in a semi-regular "pulling the plug experience" instead of a graceful shutdown displaying the mileage and time, can happen a couple times in a day.
IGCT relay and both integrated relays replaced in the fusebox, as well as power switch. Takes between 2-90 seconds to recover and turn back on. Lights out and dark during that period. No codes shown in Techstream.
Sometimes is bad enough that the Nav system reloads the DVD and settings. However, bluetooth and all other functions work once it's up and running. HV battery replaced last year, as well as 12V battery.
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According to the navigation manual (attached), the navigation screen should go to the home screen within 5 seconds. But my IS never goes to the home screen without pressing the home button, but it always shows the full screen map. I tried many different things including "Auto Screen Change" setting but nothing seems to work.
2015 IS250 AWD
Nebula Gray/Stratus Gray
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