Prius (Gen 3) :: Metallic Flakes In Engine Oil After Wide Open Throttle
May 30, 2015
I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
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Sometimes you have to put pedal to the metal to pass slowpokes blocking 2 line roads (I'm talking city/suburb driving here). but, i noticed that the smell follows. first couple of times, i thought it was coming from some other car, but this time, I realized it was me.
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I got in a work truck yesterday, sat down, put my seat belt on and started the truck. Just as I did that another employee drove by and waved, all I could do was nod back at him because my hand was still starting the truck. This took my attention away for a split second, then as I put the truck in gear, my foot still on the brake, I noticed that the tachometer was pegged and the engine was racing. I instinctively pushed harder on the brake pedal, then looked down to be sure that I was pushing on the brake pedal and I was. Right then then rear of the truck started shaking violently and as fast as I could I turned the key off and put it back in park. This all happened in about 1 second, maybe 2.
The shaking was caused by the sheared off driveshaft. And it was sheared off because the center section of the rear differential had broken the spot welds that hold it and place and rotated on the axel housings. It is now pointing upward towards the bed of the truck. Have a drive by wire truck run the engine at wide open throttle with no input from the pedal? 2010 F150 4.6L...
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So of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose this since "the car's not supposed to be driven that way" - but I get a nasty rumbling noise when I accelerate from a dead stop with wide open throttle. It only lasts for the first few thousand RPMs in first gear, and after that it is gone.
I was guessing that it might be the transfer case or something like that, but it's really hard to tell. I do have AWD. I did not have any such problem in my previous GS, which was a 2007 (current is a 2010). It's worse when I accelerate around a corner, and it also makes a small noise when I'm going above 80ish mph, which of course the dealership isn't going to diagnose either.
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this has just started recently. when ever i am wide open the car sputters a bit when at the top of the rpm range say 4,000 and above. this one has really got me scratching my head... list of upgrades are dual port blow off valve set to atmospheric, 3 inch downpipe back to the stock mufflers with no cats and the neu speed reflash.
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I noticed today all the seams in my bed are wide open, no seam sealer was put in them before it was painted! Are they all like this or was mine not finished properly? Check your beds. I can see daylight and the ground at all the seams!
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Today I was leaving my buddys house when I got in my car it started fine then I let off the brake and the epc light came on and the gas is stuck wide open unless I have my foot on the brake unplugged the plug that goes to the gas pedal and it was fine but the epc light was still on plugged it back in and the same thnig so i put my gas pedal on my buddy jetta and it worked fine on his car. Its a 1.8t jetta 03 wolfsburg edition 119000miles
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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My check engine light came on the other day and the code stated the the "throttle position is open" so after researching and everyone telling me that i need to change the sensor. I did everything after was fine running better but today only after 3 days replacing it i get the same problems. car has no get up and go hardly can push to 20 mph and when in idle i press the break it starts to bog down and almost want to shut off! and can be really loud...
Santa fe 05' 3.5L ....
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Our 04 Prius makes a really scary metallic noise at the top of the engine when it is engaged. All maintenance has been performed within 100 miles of the warning light. We are the original owners and the car has 160k miles. No pulleys are touching their surroundings. Make no mistake, this a LOUD noise that has been growing with time. No warning lights,,,oil level is fine,,,and no metal visible on the dipstick. Sound is originating at the top of the engine and is not a "knock". It is more of a metal on metal type of noise.
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When accelerating up a steep grade the engine will ping (rattling metallic sound) when reaching a certain RPM, but stop pinging as I continue to push the accelerator down and increase the RPM. Should I be concerned? Could it be something else, loose exhaust heat shield or something? Or is this normal behavior for a gasoline engine? My old Honda Fit never had engine ping/knock that i can recall in its 200,000km of service running the same 87 octane gas.
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I just rotated the OEM Ecopia tires at near 40,000 miles. They still have some life left (5000-10,000 miles). I noticed that there are wide wear bars and I'm 1-2 mm from reaching those, but there are also other narrower and shallower bars. Is this wet or snow type of indicator?
There are arrowheads next to the real wear bars and not next to the smaller ones, so they are not really wear bars.
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Got some snow tonight and was driving home from work around 35-40 mph in 4x4. You can tell that everything is engaged by the feeling and noise. Just not sure if this is abnormal. When letting off the throttle there's an extra metallic rubbing sound that goes with the drivetrain speed. Not sure if I'm just hearing the driveshaft from being in 4x4 of if something is up?
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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there is peeling off of white flakes, mostly on top of the car. what is this? what to do?
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Bought a 2013 Camry from local dealer last fall with just over 12k miles on it. I recently did my first oil change and there was sizable metal flakes in the oil pan. I'm not 100% positive they came out of the oil pan. I'm going to change the oil again after 5k and see what it looks like. The car is a Toyota certified vehicle.
At any rate, do you think I should take it in to Toyota and have them look at it? I just want to be covered if there is an issue with the engine later on.
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The code reader says no codes are stored because I obviously reset the battery. So now am at a standstill.I believe the old TB froze up, because I had to run in through 3 ft standing water during a storm, and then deployed shortly after(I'm in the service) for a few months while letting the car sit.
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We have a 98 Honda Civic that recently developed a problem with the throttle getting stuck open. With the engine off, the throttle will return to the idle position. However, with the engine is running, when the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine revs increase, but then do not decrease when the pedal is let off. The same thing happens when the throttle is manually opened (not using the cable) with the engine running. The valve for the air intake doe not seem particularly dirty. I cleaned the spring assembly which I initially thought was the problem. The car is sitting the the driveway with both of us moderately terrified of driving it?
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