Prius (Gen 3) :: MPEG Doesn't Jump Up To 100, Throttle Seems Messed Up
Jun 29, 2013
I was backing out of a parking space on the street this afternoon and hit a car that was coming down the street. The rear passenger side bumper was crunched in but I popped it out and now it's just scuffed. The impact wasn't that much, but now the throttle seems messed up.
When starting from a stop there's an initial burst of power followed by a brief lull and then power comes back. Facing up a hill there is no power with the gas pedal slightly depressed and then it kicks in with the same jerky power delivery.
I've also noticed that the real time MPEG doesn't jump up to 100 when I'm coasting like it used to and the engine doesn't quit when at a stop and the idle fluctuates a bit.
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I have recently been having a problem with my Toyota Corolla. It starts up fine in the morning, but after a couple of hours of driving with the A/C on and the running lights (which are always on), and the radio, when I shut the car off, it will not start without a jump. With my heavy duty cables it starts instantly with the jump but then I am afraid to turn it off again. It has a genuine Toyota battery that has the dots removed saying it was installed Dec. 2012 although it looks older. After driving for a couple of hours the battery should be fully charged right? Or, does having the A/C and lights on suck up to much juice?
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So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
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Ok, so, according to my dad, his car battery died, and he had to have it jumped. After the jump, apparently his headunit will no longer turn on. We think it may be a blown fuse, in which case we need to know the location of the fuse (and probably the rating & label of it, for identification's sake). I have an aftermarket headunit in my Santa Fe, and the fuse for that is in the back of the actual unit itself, so I don't know if there's a fuse in the back of his factory stereo too...? However, we are not exactly sure what the problem is. My dad's car is a 2007 Hyundai Elantra with the premium factory audio system installed. He gets Sirius-XM and has an aux input (everything pertaining to audio is factory-installed).
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Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
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I had a friend messing with my car last night and on my dash used to have the bar type fuel economy under my MPH, now it has eco indicator and I've messed with the drive infos in my settings to change it back but I can't. It is an F-Sport.
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I hit a bird at highway speed a few weeks ago, and the impact was enough to knock out the sidelight bulb. I thought the rest of the headlamp had survived OK, but now the evenings have turned dark I notice that the low beam pattern on that headlamp is completely messed up.
For those of you that have delved into the headlamp assemblies, is it possible for some part to have become dislodged such that the bulb is no longer correctly aligned with the lens?
I suspect I'm going to have to take off the bumper and dismantle the headlamp, but it would be nice to know what I might expect to find. If I find the low beam assembly damaged. I have the bi-xenons, so I'm aware from previous threads that getting the low beam out of the headlamp is a bear!
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I've tagged this as a Civic but it's a 1999 Honda City 1.5 EX. (Asian market vehicle)
Normally this car would shift to 2nd at 20km/hr and 3rd at 40. But if I hit 40+ and it shifts into third, then coast for a while and let the speed drop to below 40 (say 35), when I push the throttle now the car doesn't kick down and it feels like it has almost no power even if I push the throttle to the floor. The feeling of no power lasts for about 2 or 3 seconds, and then the car downshifts automatically and the RPMs shoot up. Quite dangerous trying to move around quickly in Asian city traffic. I adjusted the kick down cable to make it stiffer, but now the same problem happens at a higher speed and shifting at a higher RPM.
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The adjustable brake pedal on my excursion works fine, but the throttle doesn't and never did adjust. It just doesn't move at all. Why? Just a bad electric motor on the adjuster? Just curious if there is something common that fails before I delve into trouble shooting it more.
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I'm having problems starting my truck. The second it catches, it just dies right away. It doesn't stay running even if I keep giving it throttle. Although when I did try to start it 5-10 times the other day, one of those times, it started and stayed on for about 5 seconds then died again. What to check? I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this vehicle, but I would consider myself mechanically inclined since I've worked with newer cars and smaller engines before.
Also I don't know if this might be related, but I recently changed the oil & oil filter in the truck (after not having changed it for a long time).... and it was a castrol full synthetic high mileage oil. It ran and shifted a lot better for about a week before this starting problem happened. I checked the oil level and it's still perfect so I know it's not leaking oil or anything like that. Just wanted to throw this in there just in case.
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So I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
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Have great difficulty getting the car to jump start. Got it running briefly, clicked fob lock unlock system to break the anti theft interlock with doors left unlocked. Tried to put it in gear and it died. Cannot get it to jump start again. The hatch lock has no manual override to open it that I can find.
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My 12V battery is dead- not sure what happened, I usually double press the lock button to turn the headlights off immediately. It seemed odd- the taillights were on, but not the headlights and all interior dome lights were on but dim. I certainly did not get the 'door open' warning beep when I left the car.
The car is completely dead - no power locks, interior lights etc. I tried to jump start it using the fuse box jumper plate, but was not successful. I have heavy duty jumper cables and it seemed like they only contacted the jump plate at one singular point, but that was the best I could do. It was touching, just only one point on the 'teeth' was physically on the front metal part. I waited a full 5 minutes with the donor car revving and tried to start it, but nothing at all. (And yes, I was + red to + red) I tried to adjust the cable on the plate a few times, but could not get any better of a grip. No dashboard light or anything ever came on- the car was just as dead.
What could the problem be? Should I try smaller cables for a better connection with the plate? How long should it generally take while revving the donor car? Or is this something more sinister?
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been having problems with my optima yellowtop that is less than 1 year old. Sometimes my car starts fine, sometimes it won't until I jump it.
Spoke to Bernie from elearnaid (who I bought it from) and he says with my short driving habits (10min to work, 10min home) that the battery isn't getting a full charge from my engine because of the short commute...
also now my immobilizer (smart key) won't unlock doors without using keyfob or start car without keyfob in slot...
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I'm having my 2008 Prius for around 16 months no. Yesterday, after work I got in the car to drive home as usual, I put the key, pressed the brake pedal and the Power button, noticed that the dashboard lights come ON, I opened the four windows as it was too hot inside the car, then I noticed that the radio doesn't work and the display screen as well. I thought I haven't pressed the brake pedal enough so I pressed the power button again, and the car stopped. I tried to restart it , but with no luck, now all the windows are open and I couldn't close them and couldn't get the car starting. I pressed the lock button on the key to lock them, but it didn't do anything.
I waited for around 1.5 hour till my brother and his friend came, and they said it might be the 12V battery, once they put the charging cables between the two cars, mine started to operate. This hadn't happen to me and it was really a not nice experience. They told me to try it today morning, if it doesn't work, then the battery might need a replacement.
Today morning it worked fine, but I noticed that the Auto feature of the driver's window is not working and that the speedometer is giving wrong value (approx. lower by 20 K/hr).
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After 2 days of not using my Prius V, the 12v battery was dead. I couldn't figure out what I accidentally left on. I jumped it following the instructions in the manual but right after, it went into EV mode and then it required to be jumped again. I finally got the engine revving enough that it stayed on. I had never really listened to the engine rev before, but while revving it sounded higher pitched and tinny as compared to my old 6 cylinder, German car.
Is this higher pitched, tinny, electric sounding revving sound normal?
Is there anything to worry about after jumping the car?
Is there a way to see the charge on the battery? (In my old car if you hit specific buttons when starting you could enter a diagnostic mode where you could see many readings, live the current battery voltage. It would also be great if the tire pressure reading could be accessed this way.)
Also is it possible to use the hybrid battery to jump the car?
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I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?
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After years of enjoying my Prius, driving it all around California and getting about 70k miles on it, it finally went haywire today when the car didn't start. Let me explain.
When I tried turning on the car, it didn't do anything and felt resistance from the brakes. I noticed that the interior lights were dimmer than usual, so I tried pressing the Power over and over again. Unfortunately, it didn't start.
Panicked, I frantically tried to get my manual out of my trunk, only to have the lights actually fully turn on. Puzzled, I turned on the car and, sure enough, it started. But I'm an idiot and turned it off and got stuck with the same problem again.
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Why the Prius seems to "jump" or gain momentum when I go over an unexpected large bump or pothole?
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
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