Prius (Gen 3) :: LED Indicator Light That Shows When Engine Is Running?
Jan 11, 2011
I am a new Prius III owner and am interested in knowing exactly when the engine is running. While the vehicle is moving it is very difficult to tell. I understand that there is a graphic screen that shows red arrows moving out of the engine, but when using other screens I can't tell if the engine is running. Wiring an LED indicator light that shows when the engine is running? And if so, where what power supplied for the light?
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I am getting a blinking red indicator on the status screen whenever the power is off (locked or unlocked), with a symbol of a padlock over a car.
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My engine temp indicator shows overheat to the red line, however when I stop the car I can put my hand on the radiator cap and leave it there. No signs of any leaks anywhere. The top radiator hose on the drivers side is hot. Engine runs fine. Oil on dipstick clean. I can't find anything to back up my temp indication. What else I can look for? 1987 chev caprice classic brougm ls 5.o liter.
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My 2010 Prius with 72k miles on it. I bought a OBDII scanner and read P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected. The check engine light comes on for few days, then go away for few weeks and then come back again. It's been doing the exact same thing (Come on for few days and then go away) in last few months. But I do not feel any different in terms of driving.
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Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
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I bought a replacement bulb, swapped it out. No dice. I swapped over the passenger side low beam and still no dice. At this point I know its not the bulbs. I swapped in the original Driver's side light to the passenger side and it works. So now I have an extra bulb.
But the light is not working when I know the bulbs are good. Is this a fuse problem? It just happened one day while driving home from work the light shows up.
How should I go about fixing this and is it most likely a fuse that has gone out or something far worse?
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2006.5 Kia Optima stuck in park and indicator shows R for Reverse. The car roles as if in neutral. Since the car thinks it is in Reverse, I assume this is why the car will not start even though the shifter itself is in Park.
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I have a 2010 Civic Sedan. Whenever I turned the ignition switch to on, I always see the "Low Oil Pressure light" on and it disappears when I start the engine though. Is that normal?
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I recently purchased a 1994 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 for a reliable work car. I've spent the last week correcting mechanical issues the previous owner didn't. (Tune up, filters, struts.....)
When I start the car the "failed bulb" indicator light located to the left of the Tachometer is off, but as soon as I touch the brake to put the car in "D" the indicator light comes on and stays on until the next time I start it. I have checked EVERY exterior bulb several times with the car in park, not running. In park with the car running and the same in drive. All exterior lights work but this indicator light won't go off when the car is running.
Is there a fuse, sensor or relay somewhere on this car which may be the source of this problem? Wanting to "Turn off the Lights!"
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I turned on the car (2003 Chevy Venture) today and the "Low Engine Oil" display came on. I checked the oil (car had been parked on a flat surface overnight and engine was cold) and the oil was about 1/3 of the way up the dipstick, which is way, WAY past the full line. I let the car sit and warm up a little, checked again and the same level appeared. I am wondering what that means. After being on for a minute or so the engine oil light went off.
The check engine light has been on for about two days and when I went to check it yesterday the error code was p0171. Are the two related? Is there an easy fix for this or is this a sign of a serious problem?
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I have had my Prius v for almost 2 years and just recently realized that I don't understand why the oil pressure light doesn't come on when the engine isn't running. Is there something electric that provides pressure when the engine isn't running ?
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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This light started coming on only yesterday, right after I finished installing the elearnaid replacement Optima battery. It now happens every time I start the car, along with all the other lights that normally come on, and disappearing after a few seconds, like the other dash lights that are supposed to come on when you start the car.
I did have to replace my radio presets, the time on the clock, and once again remove the reverse beep, which I did with no difficulty, but this "MAINT REQD" light still comes on.
This light should not come on since I had the oil changed last month and until yesterday's 12v Optima replacement, the light indeed did not come on.
I tried a fix, which did not work:
1. the one given in my 2006 owner's manual, on p.130,
Replaced a 12v battery? How to get rid of this light?
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2002 Ford Windstar: Whenever I disconnect the battery and then reconnect it, I get this hum that sounds like the CD player preparing to play a CD. There is no CD in the player. It last for about 30 seconds and then stops. Afterwards, my check engine light comes on and stay on until I have the mechanic reset the alarm. The battery is new. My meter shows that the battery is giving out enough volts. It annoys me to have the check engine light on all of the time. I'd rather it be off so it can report if something else goes wrong with the engine.
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I have this light tapping sound that I don't believe is native to the otherwise healthy Prius II I'm currently driving. Mine is a 2007 Prius II with about 106,000 miles. The sound occurs persistently when the vehicle is ON but the engine is not running and the ventilation system is off. If I press down on the brake pedal I hear a light tapping similar to tappets in older cars.
But since the engine is not running at this point I don't think the problem is there. If I let up almost all the way on the brake the noise goes away. I bought this car with 103,000 so I know there may be things that I need to tend to. I'm not experiencing any braking problems. I'd rather have some idea of what's making this sound before I check with a mechanic and incur a few hundred dollars of expense.
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2007 Prius. It is a very cold day (5 F) and it won't start. I pushed the button as usual- first time the keys were still in the house and it did give the indication. Then the panel lit up normally but wouldn't go into reverse. Then I tried shutting down, had to hit the button a few times, and now all I get is the check engine light and a fan is running somewhere. The other thing to note is there was a beeping when I opened the door when I first got in and was running around getting the keys etc.
I have two little ones who don't like me to spend time on the computer, so I did a quick look around here and saw that the red triangle symbol with the exclamation point means the 12 volt battery is low. I get that warning on and off for probably at least a year... couldn't find any information on it in the manual so I was just ignoring it. Does this mean my 12 volt is completely dead? Is that the hybrid battery or the regular battery like in a regular car?
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Check motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
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My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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I had my oil and air filter changed and tires rotated yesterday. within an hour of driving time my slip indicator light and check engine light are on! What the problem is?
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2010 Chevy Impala: hat should I expect to hear from a mechanic?
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