Prius (Gen 3) :: Jerky Motion When Driving On Highway At About 50 Mph
Jan 7, 2014
Was driving today on the highway at about 50mph and suddenly noted jerky motion. Kept the right foot steady, but it seemed like extra power was being delivered and then cut off every few seconds. The MPH monitor was jumping all over the place with the jerking motions, as was the HSI power scale indicator. The jerking was not terrible, but noticeable.
Got home safe, no issues otherwise. Only noted while cruising on the highway. No issues driving in the city.
I am in the midwest and the temp yesterday was -11F and today about 0F. Did not a problem yesterday, but then again was not able to drive at 50mph on the highway due to snow until today.
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I have 2002 camry 4 cylinders and has 175,000 miles. I was driving on the freeway and suddenly I felt a jerky motion and check engine light came on. When I stopped at light the car began to vibrate and when started driving at low speeds it got me home. Admittedly I had put lot of hard miles on the car in past 6 months and I was lazy in getting oil changed in time. It might have been 7000 miles since oil chg. I took the car to local oil change place they did not mention anything about engine but they said my transmission oil was dark and burnt. They said I should flush and replace. I agreed and tech said he had to do second flush as oil was still dark. After second flush, he said its little bit better.
I was hoping this would solve my problem but unfortunately no. Car was still vibrating and when i drove at slow speed it was driving but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car lost power. Check engine light has been on since the incident at freeway, but now check oil light and battery sign came on. The power steering lost power. I had to park the car and restarted, as long as I drove very slowly it would drive but if I tried to accelerate where the rpm went from 1 or to next level car would loose power with warning lights on. I had recently replaced fuel pump, filter and any repair which was suggested to me. Admittedly I have not done timing chain or belt.
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A few months ago I had the passenger side Control Arm replaced. Over a year ago I had them both replaced with after market parts. I went into the dealer and was told the reason the parts failed so soon was because the parts were aftermarket parts and that I should have them replaced with original Toyota part. When the passenger side failed again, I had the dealer replace it with an original Toyota part.
Here's the problem: after they replaced the one side with an Toyota part I took my car and immediately when making a sharp turn to the right the vehicle making a jerking motion. It was unnerving the first time. It felt as if the vehicle might turn over. I noticed that this only happen or mostly happen when making a turn to the right.
Also, as I'm accelerating the vehicle will pull to the right the abruptly jerk to the left. What I was told by the dealer is that scene replaced the one side with a Original Part and the other side was an aftermarket part, the two not being of the same quality were what I felt he was saying that the parts were slightly different in size and would cause this problem.
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2006 Sonata GLS 3.3L v6 ... Vehicle has 192,000 miles and generally runs well but has started stalling out on the highway. Seems like it stalls more when turning on an exit ramp or after going over a rough spot or pothole on the road but not always. Not sure if anything in particular leads up to it. The car stalls, the power steering and brakes become unresponsive, all the dashboard lights come on, and I have to pull over and stop completely to try restarting. Usually starts right back up but sometimes it takes several tries. Took it to AAA auto care but since they couldn't recreate the problem, they weren't able to identify the issue. They did say that their diagnostic equipment was unable to access/communicate with the on-board computer for the engine if that makes any sense.
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Two years ago a purchased a 2011 Nissan Frontier mid-sized pick-up, V-6, A/T, 4WD, long-bed (6’), crew cab four door. I drove it for a little over a year and it was all good, then I put an 800 lb. pop-up cab-over camper on it. When folded down, the top of the camper is about one foot above the top of the truck cab, with about a four inch space between the bottom of the cab-over and the top of the cab, and with the cab-over extending over the back two-thirds of the cab, so the whole thing creates quite a bit of wind resistance.
After installing the camper, I noticed a front-to-back jerking motion when driving the truck at highway speeds, sort of like when topping a steep hill and beginning to descend, some vehicles will lurch front-to-back until the drive train synchs up. It was cyclic – jerk 7 or 8 times, smooth out, then do it again. It wasn’t bad enough to cause vehicle control issues. I took it to the dealer and the initial diagnosis was that the automatic trans. was going in and out of lock-up. Then I drove the service manager around in it with his laptop scope plugged in to the engine, and he said he couldn’t see anything wrong with the drive train. He suggested running the rear tires at maximum pressure of 44 lbs., which I tried but which didn’t work.
I then had airbags installed to beef up the rear suspension, but that didn’t work. Finally I built a fairing/wind deflector and installed it on top of the cab, sloping at a 45 degree angle from the trailing edge of the windshield to the leading edge of the top of the camper. That didn’t work either, which surprised me because I had first experimented with the concept by duct-taping a sheet of cardboard in the same position as the fairing would ultimately be installed, and that seemed to work. The same jerking sensation can be felt when overdrive is engaged and when it is locked out, and it also occurs at slower speeds when decelerating. Is there anything I can do to smooth out the ride?
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My car, a 00 accent 1.5 gs with about 87,000 miles, manual trans, feels like its bouncing or like the ground is uneven when its not. This happens when I'm driving. It accelerates normal but when I put it in third gear it has a bounce like motion. It even happens when I am coasting and actually in all gears. I know my shocks and maybe my springs are no good but I don't think that's the problem. I have no clue what it is. It was happening before but i have been noticing it more often. I wonder if its the axle on the left side due to a ripped cv boot.
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So I've got 8400 miles on my TDI, and for quite some time now, I've been intermittently noticing the car somewhat jerky while driving. Jerky to a small extent, like the DSG can't make up it's mind as to the gear. I could be driving home at 45 or so, and I'll randomly feel a slight bump through the pedal when I'm on a flat road. I've gotten this quite a bit. Obviously I expect to feel the DSG shifting when I'm flat out gunning it, but not when I'm maintaining a speed and should hypothetically be in the same gear that entire time.
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Had my '05 Prius for awhile now, never missed fog lights until now. I have a base model, so no HIDs and no fogs. I now have to occasionally drive 230 miles round trip in essentially total darkness, on mountain roads, often foggy, snowing, or raining.
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I just changed my inverter coolant pump which is running perfectly well. However in recent times, whenever I'm on the highway with ac on or there is a sudden brake, the red triangle light pops up. Checks on the inverter pump show that as far that is concerned everything is working. I'm really getting worried over this.
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I was driving on the highway when everything on the car went dark-the wipers (it was raining) stopped-and I was left just coasting. The hazards worked. I managed to coast through the exit and off the access road which is where the car is now, the next morning.
Once again: Car running fine, with no problems when an instantaneous shutdown occurred.
The key fob's battery had gotten to the point that the Smart System wasn't working so I assumed that the fob battery had gone totally dead and wasn't communicating with the car while inserted in the fob slot. I replaced the fob battery and it activates the Smart System now.
The 12v battery was replaced less than 6 months ago. The headlights still work....I think that would only happen when the key was available normally and this might be related to the below description:
The car makes the warning sound when I open the driver door as if the fob is still in the ignition (it's the warning that the keys are about to be locked in the car) so it seems to not realize the key has been removed.
The suddenness of the shut down makes me think that it's a blown fuse or, a horrible thought, that the immobilization feature is activated.
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Just curious if we can change selections for driving mode when a car is in motion or it has to stop to switch between them?
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Lost all acceleration yesterday while driving at highway speed. Tire pressure light came on also large warning sigh and check engine . Had been stuck in bumper to bumper traffic before this with AC on.Gas pedal to the floor but no acceleration. I pulled over and shut off car. When I tried to restart the lights mentioned above went out Except the check engine, NOW all the brake warning lights are on in a yellow color including the emergency brake.Brakes do stop the car (had to push it onto the tow truck) Car comes on but does not display the READY sign.
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I picked up my wife's Prius yesterday and drove it 200 miles back home. Most of the driving was motorway (highway) but the battery never went over 3/4 charge. How do I fully charge them?
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16 K miles- the noise level when highway driving is beyond belief-- difficult to hear the radio and conversation is a strain. Tires are beginning to cup. Close a front door with a window open produces cheap noise, not a solid thump. Toyota agrees there is noise, but will do nothing about it. " that is the way they are".
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I was on the highway yesterday when the red triangle went off and the screen said Problem. I babied my 2008 Prius to the dealer. They said the 12v battery was bad. I should have just gotten the yellow top in last week like I wanted but oh well. Here is the problem, today it did it again. It first happened at 70 mph but today it did it first at 15 mph then pretty much stayed on until I did not accelerate for a while. No noticeable performance issues, just the warning indicator. I did notice the noises after shutdown are sounding different than before last week. I also put a code reader on it both without running and on a test drive and no codes showed. What is going on?
More info: Just hit 100,250 miles. Purchased on March 17, 2008. Went in last week before the 100,000 miles for a check up and ended up with $1,000 for a coolant pump (both now, other coolant pump was replaced within the last 6 months). Also got: break fluid, belt, break alignment, oil change, tires (this I was expecting hardly passed state inspection in March), possibly something else.
I have been doing the oil changes since 15,000 miles, filters, pcv (or pvc whichever), all normal items. Problem free until I have them do a check now issues. So to recap non normal items done: blower motor in 2009, radio replacement in 2008, coolant pump in Mayish, other coolant pump and 12 v battery last week. Read more : [URL] ....
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This is for a mk6 GTI with 6500km
There is a "wheel of fortune" clicking noise coming from the front of the car under the following conditions:
- the car is in motion in reverse (e.g. backing up when parking) with steering wheel cranked (near) full left or right
- Happens only on rainy days (I've noticed it a few days back, and maybe 2 weeks prior to that)
The clicking sound isn't there when weather is dry or when I am backing up straight
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Need to diagnose a problem with my 2001 Prius. I was driving it on the highway when suddenly the hybrid system warning light and the main battery light, along with the check engine light came on. I pulled over, turned off the car, and turned it back on. The main battery light error cleared but the Hybrid System warning light stayed on as did the check engine light.
I took my car into the dealership and they told me that the 12V battery was probably low at some point but that they didn't find any problems.
The error codes that came up were: C1215, C1241, C1259, C1521, C1522, C1558, and C1559.
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This was quite unusual for me, but while I was driving down afternoon highway traffic, my left resting-feet accidentally bumped onto the e-brake. My Prius made a single beeping sound, but I don't think I fully depressed the brake at all so it kept on rolling and the e-brake light never stayed on.
I wonder if that did any damage to my Prius at all with a slight depress of the e-brake or if it wasn't anything at all?
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I noticed a drop on my mpg while driving with an open sunroof.
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Purchased one owner Prius from Honda dealer May 2014 with 92000 miles.Now 2 months later 94000. Both service departments of Honda and a Toyota dealer said my car handles normally for a Prius.The car dips from left to right while driving at slow and highway speeds. It feels like a boat moving through water. The suspension was said to be good.Driving it feels unstable, like a Montero Sport or a stage coach. I wanted to do a lot of driving this summer, but this feels so uncomfortable.
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I have a 1999 F250 SD V10 4x4. I recently had a transmission installed and the truck is running erratic. I have an engine miss (sometimes when idling, more so when in drive and foot on the brake). I say sometimes because there are times it will not miss and the engine runs smooth. The transmission shifts a little strange and sometimes hard.
I am getting a code reading that says my TPS is faulty, but I installed a new one a few months back.
The engine is running rough (jerky on acceleration) especially when driving. I was wondering if I should take it to a shop and have them flash the computer to reset it?
I also remove the AC compressor a while back (bad clutch). I installed an aftermarket pulley.
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