Prius (Gen 3) :: Internal PTC Cabin Heaters Missing Relays And Didn't Work
Feb 23, 2012
In some areas, the internal PTC cabin heaters were missing the relays and didn't work. They mentioned that the relays were in the glove box and that they easily installed them manually. There were no relays in my glove box, but I couldn't be sure if they were installed. So I took a picture of my "relays and fuses box" for someone with experience to examine. Are the PTC heater relays installed in my car?
Full resolution Dropbox link: [URL] .....
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I'm a new Prius owner (only 500 miles) and have experienced a lot of issues so far. Today I got in my car and both front and rear windows were fogged up. I turned on both defoggers and the front window would not clear. I set the vent speed to high and could hear a noise like the air was blowoing, but it did NOT clear the front window - I had to clear it with a cloth so I could see.
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The power button didn't work for a while: For about two hours, the power button (and other stuff) on my 2007 Prius didn't work. But, after a couple of hours, the button worked again and I was able to power down my car (this after many, many pushes both soft and hard). I've now turned it on and off a few times and the car seems to be OK and it's behaving as if it's smiling at me and saying, "What?"
My questions: Does this happen a "lot"? Would the car have turned off if I turned off the smart function (as described on page 34 of the manual)? Is this issue as serious as it seems? Should I dump the car?
This is the first time in 138K miles that the below issues have manifested separately or together.
Other issues that happened at the same time (this morning when the car didn't turn off) were that the:
Instrument cluster was completely dark except for the check engine light (the dark instrument cluster was what first tipped me off that something was wrong)
Backup camera didn't turn on when I shifted into reverse gear
Phone didn't automatically go to speed dial when I was in motion
Fifth door unlock didn't work; the four doors locked/unlocked using the lock/unlock button on the door, but the hatchback didn't unlock.
A day or so ago, the check engine light came on and is throwing a "P0420" code (I posted about this separately yesterday).
By the way, I found out that if you hold down the power button for a while, the car goes into a different state of being where the ICE isn't running and the battery shows as completely empty.
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The post that inserts into the head unit volume receiving column is sheared off and stuck in there. I tried super-gluing it back together, but that didn't give me the slight bumpy sensation when I turned it. I thought it would at least depress, but not when it was superglued together. It won't pop in and out when I press on it when it was glued.
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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07 Prius, 6 speaker NON-JBL.
This happened a couple of weeks ago and then again. ALL the buttons on my steering wheel work, AC, Temperature, Defrost, Recirculation etc , except Audio. ( Dash audio functions work fine! )
The last time, restarting the car and the functions came back to life.
Is there some kind of official "reboot" process for the computers?
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My Excursion recently had all of the door lock actuators replaced, but locking still wouldn't function correctly...everything works fine with both the fob and the door keypad, but when using the door switches it would only lock, not unlock.
I searched for three days trying to find where the door relays were because I knew my actuators were all good....I happened upon a thread on here where a user had my same issue and was asking about relays. Like me he was trying to find out where the relays were, but users kept wanting to tell him to do the foil quick fix on his actuators. Even after he specifically said he was sure it was NOT the actuators, posters kept telling him to focus on the actuators, that there were no relays other than internal to the VSM I think...he finally took it to the stealership and they told him they had replaced one of the power lock relays under the dashboard.
I searched the internet for a couple more days trying to find where those elusive relays were, and all I could find was a generic "under the dash" if even that much--most people kept wanting to point users to the actuators. So for any future readers who want to know where the door lock relays on a 2000 Excursion are located, there are three of them--one for "all doors lock", one for "all doors unlock", and one for "driver's door lock". They are buried in the dashboard, mounted to the firewall upside down behind the radio. The easiest access to them is from the floorboard to the right of the accelerator pedal.
You'll need to remove the knee panel under the steering wheel that covers the fuse box; then remove the rubbery lower wiring cover below it that's held in place by 3 or 4 pf the phillips head push-pins; then in the lower right of the opening where you removed the knee panel (look just above the accelerator pedal), find and remove the single gold 7mm screw that holds the driver's footwell air diverter in place, and remove the air diverter. Then lay on your back in the drivers floorboard and look up to where would be directly behind and just below the radio--you'll see a small (2"x6") rectangular black cover facing down that hides the relays, held on with a clip at each end. Pop the cover off, and you'll see the three relays. I'm not sure what order they are in. In my case, I was intending to make sure the relay was my problem by having what was functioning change when I swapped relays....apparently my problem was a poor connection on one of the relays because everything started working perfectly and has worked fine since.
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When AC is on "Auto" the fan runs at slowest speed unless outside temp is over 100 degrees or setting is below 64 degrees. With setting left at 70 or 71 degrees, and outside temp is 80 or higher, cabin temp will slowly rise when driving in traffic and will slowly fall at speeds over 60, but not reach set temp until driving over an hour plus.
If fan is manually adjusted to higher speed, "Auto" system shuts off and AC becomes totally manual control. If the "Auto" button is touched, fan goes off again and the system will not do any of the automatic functions spelled out in manual.
Two different dealers have advised that ALL 2014 Avalons are like this and so it is considered "normal" regardless of what manual says and they and Toyota Customer Service refuse to do anything about it. What is the experience of other 2014 owners.
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I got a problem with me partners accent 2003 hatchback, after she filled up with fuel and turned the air-con on the speedo didn't work like it read 0, but while driving and turning the aircon off speedo started working again..... What was wrong or happened? as now it wont do it....it works fine??
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Seat belt warning ding (driver)
ENABLED / *DISABLED*
Seat belt warning ding (front passenger)
ENABLED / *DISABLED*
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The security light has been on for years with no issue but doesn't narrow down if it is the bypass problem since it stays on but the other electric items not working at the same time has me perplexed.
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2005 Honda Civic which has been pretty reliable up to this point. Had all the suggested maintenance services up until the most recent which just passed. Last oil change and inspection: Early November.
Last month:Went to start up the car and it basically went all blinky with power. But after letting it sit for a minute or two, it started up just fine. This happened three times. On the third time opened up the hood and found corrode on both polls of the battery. Scrubbed and cleaned the posts and connectors. Had the battery tested and it was just fine. After that no problems or occurrences. Only things that lingers in my head is that perhaps the driver door window rolls down slowly (thought the motor was going out and would have to replace soon) and the headlines would slightly dim and waver at times, but not consistently.
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Yesterday I got in my 2000 Rav4 and for no apparent reason the radio, digital clock, and the mirror adjuster didn't work. I checked all of the fuses and replaced one 15amp in the dash but it didn't fix the problem.
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I purchased a 2006 V-8 several months ago, and am enjoying it greatly. One thing I noticed after I bought the car is that the cabin trunk switch does not work to open the trunk. I was not too concerned since the key switch worked, so I figured I'd get the dealer to fix it when I next took it in for servicing. Well, now the trunk button won't work on any of my keys either. I think I may have held the button down too long and then it froze after trying again several times. So the bottom line is that I cannot open the trunk. Just to be clear the trunk is closed, so any remedy that requires that the trunk be open is impractical.
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