Have a heavy steering feel on their 2010's with the 215 45/17 tires? It seems much heavier than previous Prius's and also have noticed that mine when it is really cold the steering wheel gets a little twitchy until it is fully warmed up.
View 12 RepliesAbout a week and a half ago I took my 2008 ISF to Lexus to have them check out the ticking noise. My car has 63K miles on it and I notice the ticking noise after it is fully warmed up. I normally have just been driving it in Sport-Manual too. The sound seems to come from the driver's side fender well area and I hear it best when it is in drive in my garage or at a drive thru.
At first Lexus couldn't duplicate the sound even after driving the car. So I went to the dealership and drove the car about 10 mins for them to hear. The service advisor and a technician heard it this time. They had to call the regional Field Technical Service rep for direction on how to proceed. The FTS person recommend swapping the driver's side high pressure fuel pump to the passenger side to see if the noise followed the pump. I guess they've had problems in the past with the high pressure pumps on the LS models. I again went down to the dealer to drive the car and the noise stayed on the driver's side.
3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L. My problem is it will not idle until the engine is fully warmed up. When I first start it, I need to keep my foot on the gas, if I let it go it dies.
View 1 RepliesWhen car is fully warmed up, I notice in Sport+ (manual mode) when accelerating in 2nd gear right around 2000-2200RPMs, I get a slipping/hesitation before it corrects itself and is fine. Mostly with slow acceleration...fast acceleration doesn't really trigger this.
Also when decelerating and coming to slow stop, sometimes it jams/jams into first gear on its own. Doesn't happen all the time but sometimes.
Overall, I still like the tranny and finding which mode works best in which situation like bumper2bumper traffic, light traffic, slow driving, etc...
The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
I read a similar post but no resolution. My '05 Equinox starts fine most of the time, but when I make a quick stop before its fully warmed up I have to slightly depress the accelerator to get it to start. Now I know with fuel injection this should't be happening but its been the case almost since the day I bought it. GM changed out the software in the computer and that seemed to work for a while, at least long enough for the warranty to end. It doesn't bother me but my wife wants the car now. What's up?
View 1 RepliesOver the past few week my truck has developed a knock once it has fully warmed up. At first I thought it was possibly injector knock and kind of got excited about the prospect of upgrading to larger injectors. Well, my short lived optimism came to an end today once I got ahold of my father's mechanics stethoscope. So today I let it fully warm up and like clock work the knock came back. After going over nearly every inch of the top end, nothing was producing what I was hearing.
So I crawled under the beast and located the source. Right where the bellhousing mates the the engine block is where the knock is definitely loudest. At first I thought it was louder in while in gear but today it didn't matter if it was in gear or not. I removed the bellhousing cover and inspected what I could see of the flexplate. Couldn't see and cracks or breaks but from what I see through google searches is that it cracks behind the spacer. Now my first thought is that it's the flexplate but I'm hoping more experienced people can tell me what they think.
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My wife's RX is really starting to give me a headache. The first problem I'm having with this car is detonation. The car starts pinging at part/ light throttle once the engine is fully warmed up. The is no CEL or codes pending. After scanning the car it seems that fueling is right where it should be and nothing else seems out of order. The pinging stops when you hit the gas harder. So far the only way to rid the car of this problem is to fill with 93 octane and that gets expensive with a daily driver. Shouldn't the knock sensors be handling this? Is there a way to test them?
The second problem I have is the heat won't turn off. Hot air always comes out at what seems to be low fan. I can move the area it comes from ( dash vent, floor etc) but I can't turn it off. With the fan set to off and no settings chosen I still get heat.
The car currently has 78k miles on it
It has been there for about 6 months....i own a 3rd gen and i feel the steering bit heavy (actually not soft) to steer compared to other toyota models...the tire is 215 45 r17...can the steering tightness be adjusted technically at some point....
View 8 RepliesToday, I just picked up my 2014 prius. Basically, when I do a right/left turn on the car, when accelerating out of the turn, the steering wheel does not fully return to the center position (its approximately in the one/eleven o'clock position). Also, if I leave the wheel straight, and drive straight, the car will drive straight and not pull towards the side so I don't think its an alignment issue. I'm not sure if this is normal, or if its happening just because they car is new or just because I'm not accelerating hard enough out of the turn (I always stayed in the eco range with the HSI. )
View 5 Replies2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
View 7 RepliesOK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
View 1 RepliesJust bought Camry 2011 XLE /37.500 Miles.
When driving this first day everything ran very smooth and very light. After I took it to get State Inspections and Emissions, for the last couple days, the car has been feeling somewhat heavier. I ran it by the shop I went to and they test drove it and said it was fine. The steering seems to be a bit heavy no when I turn. The wheel doesn't set back smoothly at all/stays stuck. The car doesn't seem to run as "light anymore" The wheel feels very heavy/dragging at times when steering from right to left.
I heard that spraying Tri-Flow lube with teflon on the Universal (U-Joint)/steering column will work wonders in making it smoother.
Noticed seat vibrations when fully stopped? My 2013 has a sweet spot where the needle hits *just barely* under 750rpm when stopped at a light or something, where it doesn't vibrate at all. Anything even a smidgen over or under that and the seats and sometimes even the steering wheel vibrate. It's pretty random. One set of lights and I'm vibrating, the next set of lights not far down the road and no vibrations.
Also when I'm idling or stopped and I want to roll a window up or down, the whole car will shake, RPMs will dip a bit too.
Recently had superpro Lca, koni yellows, Pilot super sports and a solid alignment done.
Over the last 2 days it seems that my steering that felt very light after the superpros were installed, has become very sluggish and heavy. There is a bit of "heavy" play in the wheel as well which under the same effort after putting on the PSS, would have tossed me around playfully.
One piece of info I should include is that I took her on a windy road pretty hard on Saturday. Tight hairpin turns that last a couple miles but I ran it 3 times.
Would running her hard though turns make the steering become dead? Is my power steering fluid in need of a change?
1-My Ex steering is very heavy and some times kicking, I don't have any fluid leaks and my steering shock looks nice and clean, I did check and lubricate the ball joints.
2- how did the big 3 wire upgrade in v10, I need some pictures for grounding wires locations like engine to body, battery to body, chassis to body. Because I got a new 300 amp alternator to juicing my truck stuff and to power up the 3000w power inverter.
3- The engine exhaust fumes is so strong making my eyes burning ← . What I did is new coils pack, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter , cleaned the injectors , checked the exhaust for leaks, cleaned the throttle.
But it's no different, I had this problem sense Day1 .
Experienced a weird clicking sound when the steering wheel is fully locked either left or right, when turning at low speeds? Its more of a pop than click. No issues driving straight, or in regular turns, just when fully extended.
View 7 RepliesI have a UK 2006 Mk2 CDX+ which I was driving last night - seemed ok, got to our driveway, turned the steering wheel fully left so I could manoeuvre the car into the driveway when I heard a loud "clunk" noise.
I thought I ran over a bottle or something so carried on reversing, when I got out I noticed the car was parked diagonally! Thought this is strange, I don't park like that and tried again, a bit better but still not parallel! I then noticed the steering wheel was hard to turn, a grinding like noise is heard when I turned so I decided I would need to take into the local in the morning.
Started the car today and drove out and got immediate sensation that steering was not connected to the wheels, the SW was off centre by miles and turning left/right was very sluggish. Lucky the garage is only down the road (but it's not Hyundai specialist) from me as I would not risk driving it down main roads in this condition. Guy at garage asked me to fully turn the SW left to right and we can see that the front of the car actually moved during the process. He is going to take it up on the lift to look underneath.
I've owned my IS F for a little over two weeks now, and I have noticed under several occasions under heavy breaking (close to 70-80% breaking capacity) that I have to fight the steering wheel to keep the car tracking straight. This is anywhere from speeds of 80-90 mph coming down to 40-50 mph. Could this be an issue related to the front control arm bushings? My F only has ~41,xxx miles and tires are brand new (OEM Spec) Continental ExtremeContact DWS. No other alignment issues known as the car doesn't track left or right either.
View 14 Repliessanta fe 2009 - 77000KM - AWD
Few months ago , I notice that the steering getting heavy after driving like 15Kms. At the morning it's normal , and while driving also normal , Just heavy when the vehicle at low speed. I checked the Fluid , it was very dark , SO i changed it with new oil , but after like week , it be heavy all the times , also some noise sound at the power steering bump when move the steering .
I check at work shop, the advice me to change the fluid again, since they assumed that the fluid not suitable for the vehicle.