Prius (Gen 3) :: HSI (CHG) Bar And Regen / Friction Braking?
Jul 26, 2010
Prius III -- I do all in-town driving with display in HSI mode. When braking, I have naively assumed that the length of the CHG bar corresponds with regen braking capacity -- fill the bar and you're starting to add friction brake. So when stopping distances permit, I try to brake gradually enough to keep a bit of space past the end of the CHG bar -- means I'm playing with brake pressure the whole length of a typical freeway exit ramp.
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The topic is as much as I can say to what my car's problem is.
2010 Prius II with 50k miles now.
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I had my scangauge installed at the end of Oct 2014 so I haven't had the chance to use it in the summer. I have also done the the Intelligent Power Module (IPM) recall about 2 months ago. I have never noticed this issue before the hot weather.
When the weather gets hot, the regen gradually lowers the recovery amp. Normally it can regen at over -90 amps. As weather gets hot, it limits the regen to about -65 amps max. When it gets hotter, the regen lowers down to -35 amps max. I can feel the car not slowing down as quick as at -90 plus amps. When the car has been sitting under the 100f+ for a couple of hours, regen is completely at idle (less than -20Amps.) Mechanical brakes take over. The car feels the same as -30amp regen, HSI shows it is regen braking. However, scangauge shows idle regen (less than -20Amp) and the slowing down is done by mechanical brakes.
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My 2007 with 58k on it started making the sound of a 'ratchet clankety clank' about at 56k while lightly braking with regen around 8-13 mph (slow and quiet enough to hear it best) and while turning slightly or more to the right. If I'm on a hill and can maintain the conditions, the sound will continue.
I've spent many a night searching here and elsewhere, learned a lot about strut and cv noises etc. At 57k I took it to a dealer who has a very nice service dept and they rode with me, agreed that they heard it, checked out the cv by hand (my first suspicion) and said all felt fine, that it was recorded at least (my concern being near 60k, std warranty).
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This morning I noticed a strong burning odor, like burning wax. It only seems to occur on high current regen events (eg coming off the freeway). It also happens to be raining, although I'm not sure if that's part of the issue or just a coincidence.
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I have noticed recently that I seem to be getting less regen braking force than I used to. Particularly noticeable at higher speeds at over 45MPH or 70 KMPH. The regen seems to have very little effect now until I have slowed down. I seem to have to use much more brake than I remember recently. And by the way the battery in not nearly fully charged....Regen does come on but seems to have very little slowing power....
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I am a brand new Prius v 2 owner and am confused when it comes to braking. I read somewhere that when you see the regenitive charging are full in white 3 white bars that it is now using the friction brakes. Is that true? How do you know when it is using regen vs. friction brakes?
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The other day I was driving down my street which is a decent grade (you have to curb your tires when parking) ... in normal drive mode at about 20mph with my foot off the accelerator pedal, I get about 10amps of charging as I coast down the hill. (I was in ECO mode, ICE fully warmed up)
For no reason I put the car into B without doing anything else and suddenly I'm getting about 25+ amps of regen. Going back to D instantly put it back to 10 amps.
I haven't explored this option fully, but it seems like the trick is to use B only once ICE is off under 43mph and you are slowing down. This will give you a nice regen boost (and slow you faster) without the brake lights being on. Just go back to D before you start driving again.
Up until this point I found B mode mostly useless.....
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I've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
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Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
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Just letting Gen III drivers know that using an OBDII splitter and two gauges can sometimes cause a loss of regen braking and traction assist accompanied by various yellow lights on the dash. It can be restored by switching the vehicle off, unplug the OBDII splitter and restarting the car. This has happened to me on three seperate occasions.
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I bought my SF 2013 Limited just less than 3 weeks ago. The car was fine but now all of sudden started to emit metallic grinding/friction noise when I press the gas pedal.
Dealer tech thought that it is bad drive shaft, but after changing it, it didn't solve the problem. Thought that rotor splash guards and maybe pads were to tight, that still didn't solve it.
To put this in perspective:
The sound comes only when I press the gas pedal and increases with the speed. It sound like cymbals and with speed it sound like a cricket. Noise comes from the bottom of the car and you can only hear it if your windows are down and car is passing sound reflection objects on the side, like other cars, concrete dividers, or parked vehicles.
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I just had brakes redone at Nissan on a 2003 Pathfinder. Nissan said that when the last brake job was done (by Firestone), the bearings were overtightened causing "scoring" from friction. Nissan says there is a chance that this may have weakened the metal from repeated heating and cooling over about 40,000 miles.
Nissan said that it's unlikely, but possible, that a break can cause the wheel to fall off while I'm driving. I took it to Firestone who looked at it (see photos attached) and said it's just normal wear for a car with 140,000 miles... nothing to worry about. I'm a bit freaked out about notion that a wheel can fall off while I'm driving.
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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
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My car has developed some intermittent noise but I can't pinpoint the exact source, though it seems to be coming from the front. I hear it in 1st gear when accelerating, and it's more audible if I have my windows down. A faint metallic grinding/friction/rotating noise is how I think I could most accurately describe it. I do have an oil change coming up in the next few weeks and will mention it then.
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Over the holiday weekend I towed my 13k# 5th wheel 180 miles to the campgrounds.
According to my Torque Pro app, soot was around mid 30% when I left home. Upon arrival it had passively dropped to single digits.
After driving unloaded a few times over the weekend, the soot level had gone back up to mid 30s.
While towing home it again had passively dropped back to 1.1% .......... then boom! A regen starts.
After 22 miles it completed and soot had dropped to -13.2%.
So towing heavy, passively burning soot off, exhaust temps in the 700-800 weren't good enough for the system.
It had to start a regen and boost tempts to the 1100-1200 range WHILE TOWING to basically burn off NOTHING.
Not to mention drop my already poor MPG to single digits.
Just venting about what appears to be unnecessary exposure to high temps and wasted fuel.
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I know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
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I just had my thermostats replaced in my 6.4, and I'm concerned about the regent process. I read that when the P0128 code is thrown, truck will not go into regen. Is this true? How can I manually start the regen process?
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I purchased a 2016 f350 XLT 6.7 it's basically two weeks old with roughly 1500 the horsepower and fuel economy is incredible however it's developed a terrible shake during regen. It occurs every time regen and shifting down isn't working. Hard to believe a two week old truck has to go back to the dealer and from what I'm reading it sounds like they're not solving it.
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Is there an alert setting to signal when a regen starts? My engine stumbles badly a few seconds after a regen starts. The dealer hasn't found the problem. Right now I just keep an eye on the soot level gauge.
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Last week I picked up a 2016 F-350 with the 6.7 diesel. Since then I have put about 4500 miles on it and gone through 2 or 3 regenerations. About half the miles were empty, half were with about 1500lbs of cargo in the bed. Mostly interstate driving at about 70mph.
However, every time the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes on in the screen it feels like the truck looses all power for a second. The first time I was going up hill with cruise control set at 70 and it felt like stomping the brakes then hitting the gas all within a second maybe.
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