Prius (Gen 3) :: Gas Engine Kick In And Out When Driving
Oct 16, 2011
When driving do you feel the gas engine kick in and out, we do to a fair degree, I thought this type of transmission was smother. This really drives the wife nuts and I'm not sure if it's correct or not.
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My 2004 Ford Ranger has 220,000 miles, runs great, and when I bought it this summer the 4 wheel drive worked great. Starting when the weather got cold when I engage the 4 wheel drive (no lockouts electronic engagement). I will drive and it will kick in and out of 4 wheel drive when it starts to slip or I have to accelerate.
When the 4 wheel drive kicks out I will let off the gas then it will engage again on its own, but will slip out again when on ice or I start to slip. When the 4 wheel drive engages it does NOT make any strange sounds, no clunking or nothing, it engages smoothly, and disengages properly.
What it could be? a connection? Any way to fix or diagnose the problem? I have been told that it probably is not the transfer case, because if it were it would not engage or stay in 4 wheel drive at all.
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 with 86,000 miles. When I am driving through town at a low acceleration or a constant speed at between 40 - 50 mph the truck starts to sputter and kick a bit. When I give it some gas the problem goes away. This gets worse when I pull my bass boat, and starts at around 30 mph. When I hook it up to a reader I get a P0316 code. Only code I get.
Also when I am driving through my neighborhood between 20 - 30 mph I get a noise that sounds like there is a plastic bag stuck under the truck. I have checked under the truck to see if the firewall is loose anywhere, but could not find anything. Other than those two issues the truck runs great. What these problems could be?
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Alright, I picked up this 92 bonne se 3800 about a month ago for cheap so i figured i would have to do some work to it...i was not let down there...when i first got it it would start but kind of rough then smooth out and would run and drive great...now for the issues
when it got colder (and was still starting) i would have to wait for it to warm up or rev the engine a few times to get it to kick into gear, otherwise you would shift into gear and nothing would happen.
Now the thing is not starting, after cranking it once in a while it will hiss a puff of something out of the ends of a rubber connector on top of the throttle body. and the area around this is wet with what smells like gas. what would this be? it will crank over but not catch. and it just happened. it was starting then then next day this.
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It started doing this fairly recently - no work has been performed - it just decided to not work right one day... The A/C compressor will not engage until after the engine is hot - the idiot gauge on the dash has to be firmly in the middle. After it engages, though, hoo boy does it blow cold - which is great, except I didn't used to have to wait as long to get cold air... It does cycle.
I thought, okay - low coolant - I get one of those refill bottles of r134a (w/ "conditioners" and whatnot) with an attached gauge at walmart and pump it into the truck - no change. Gauge was cheesy - told myself to get a better one.
I wait a while and get another bottle of refill r134a - one with a better gauge on it - and try again. Truck doesn't want any more - I may have overfilled, but there's no change - before the compressor kicks in, the gauge reads in the red - overcharge - but once the compressor kicks in, it drops and starts reading in the green and, when I checked per ambient temp, it was a bit in the high-end of the green for that temp, but was fine. I have no way of checking the high-pressure port.
Is there a temp switch of some kind on this system? I don't think it's low on r134a, but something is keeping the compressor from kicking on like it used to.
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My friends cavalier stopped running about a week ago. It is a 98 with the 2.2 liter. When she turns the key you can hear the starter kick out but it wouldn't turn the engine. I figured it was the starter solenoid, but just to play it safe I took the starter off and had it tested. the starter passed. I put it back on but I left the flywheel cover off, I had her turn the key and you can see the flywheel turn a little bit, so I am pretty sure the starter is fine. I am not sure where to go from here, everything seems to be working fine but the engine just wont crank. I can turn the engine by hand so it doesn't seem like its stuck.
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I have weird kick back when I release gas pedal. Why?
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This has happened before but at a slower speed. Today I pulled out onto the main road and car accelerated leisurely as usual. It was strangely quieter than normal though... I look at the speedo and I'm already past 15 mph and nothing. Just electric acceleration. I press the gas harder and now I'm into the PWR range (almost to the very end but not quite) and the car just continues to build speed but no ICE kick on as usual. at around 43 mph I get concerned and floor it all the way to see if the engine would kick on and finally the gas engine kicks on. It's as if the electronics of the car fell asleep. The acceleration felt labored as only the electric motor was providing power and I'm sure it's not good for the battery to put that much strain on it at those speeds. For those interested, I was in normal mode. Not EV, not ECO, not PWR. I stopped at the light then pulled off and the car took off and ice kicked on as normal (7-8 mph). The car behaved normally for the rest of my drive.
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I've replaced all (3) ignition coils, both O2 sensors, wires and plugs, air filter, fuel filter...Also experience some missing at low rpms as well...not sure what the problem is?
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My 1989 Ford Ranger 2,9 V6 is acting up like crazy (engine hesitation) after kick down (it has an automatic transmission).
It can run like a charm for days and days and for the longest drives, but if I do a kick down it will start acting up (while both cruising or idling). This is making it almost impossible to drive as it looses speed. Only way to accelerate again is to do another kick down (then it will accelerate smoothly for as long as I keep my foot down), but that is really no solution as it will accelerate way past the speed limits and the mpg is horrible going up and down like that.
A couple of times this problem has seemed to solved itself after a while of engine hesitation but normally it would be acting up for the whole drive. On the other hand it will be okay again the next time I take it out for a drive.
Diagnostics: It has nothing to do with the temperature of the motor as this will happen after a kick down on both a cold or hot engine.
Simple solution so far: Avoid kick down!
What I have done so far: I have changed the spark plugs, the plug wires, the distributor rotor and the distributor cap with no luck.
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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Warning light came on and I went straight to dealer. My hybrid battery is bad after 150,000 miles. Can I drive the car with on just the gas engine? No one at the dealership seems to know.
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This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
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I have a 2009 model with 99980 miles. Just this morning while driving to work, the CEL came on, yet no noticeable difference in how the car drives/sounds.
Question: Is the CEL set to come on just before the car reaches 100K miles? I plan to have AutoZone read the codes today, but just wondering if this is a sw program for routine maintenance at the 100,000 mile mark.
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I had a minor problem today with my prius, as while driving in LA rain, my Engine check light came up and engine started vibrating. It is okay when a motor is driving the car, but as soon as engine kicks in i feel vibrations and Engine Check light starts blinking. Rest of the electronics and battery charges normally.
I had to drive in the rain today for about 50 miles... Also, I found similar thread but no answer.....take a look with following subject thread. (I cant post direct link.... "Vibration and check engine on my 2008"..
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Three times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
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I have a 2008 Prius. It has been giving me an engine light intermittently while I am driving. My mechanic could not get an error code to show. It mostly happens while braking or while driving a right hand curve on roads at speed. What might be happening?
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I have a problem with my car I notice 2 time when I was driving from city to province about 270km distance and speed 102km/h my car was appear red check engine sign I don't know what is the problem. Last time it was disappear by its self after 2 days ...
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Goes it cause permanent damage to a hybrid engine to drive it with a loose oil cap? The dealer said there was enough oil in it. 2011 Toyota Prius
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I have purchased a 2010 III Prius with 73K miles last week after my 2006, everything is fine for me but I have a scary problem , the engine sound is very high while driving even after enough warming up, specially when the ECO meter reaches the PWR area or when accelerating hardly, I tried changing the engine oil with synthetic 0W-20 and the filter and the sound still the same.
Check the video attached and also note that
- Its winter here and temp is 50F.
- The car was imported from the US,
- The speed in the video in KM/h.
- I am using clean OCTANE 95 fuel.
- The video was after driving 20 Miles.
- I have latest version of Techstream with original Mongoose MFC...
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why the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
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