I am a new 2010 prius owner and I am very interested in obtaining the max MPG in my new car I have read and seen video with regard to the pulse and glide method. My question is
1. can you shift into neutral on the glide
2. can this do any harm to the car.
While pulse and glide, is it better in Eco mode or normal mode with Prius c?
Eco mode will take more time to pulse, it may lower mpg?
Nexus 7 ?
Two weeks ago we were driving across rolling hills in southern Ohio. I started to wonder, "What would be the perfect road for the Gen 3 Prius?" Is there a road shape that would allow the benefits of pulse and glide without the speeding up and slowing down?
Let's assume no net elevation change on an interstate highway and a driving speed of 60 or 65 mph. To stay in the most fuel efficient engine ranges for the ICE, we'd want down-hill stretches where the power demand shown on the hsi would be in the bottom 1/4 of the total Echo range, and up-hill stretches where we could stay in the top 1/4 of the hsi Echo range (just below Power).
Would the optimal ascent and descent angles be the same, or would the angle of decline be shallower that the assent angle? Would mileage (mpg) be better on this ideal up and down road than mileage on a flat road at constant speed?
Correct me if I'm wrong - Pulse & Glide is not really possible at speeds higher than, say 120-130km/h (74-80mph). I have noticed on my last trip that if you want to keep 130km/h average and you pulse up to 140km/h and glide down to 120km/h, when "gliding" the engine never shuts down, and the glide period is very short.
When pulsing back to 140km/h it takes a "long" time and the instant fuel consumption is "high" (e.g. 6-7L/100km) while when "gliding" you are actually at 2-3L/100km, which means on average you are at about 5L/100km, which is what I would get in any case if keeping speed constant with the CC at 130km/h.
I own a Prius C 2013. I read about Pulse and Glide, and I also watched youtube about it. I somehow have never seen a situation where there is no arrow in the Energy Monitor. The best I have ever seen is arrow coming out of the battery only which is EV mode. Some people say 35-45 is the best speed for P&G, but I never see "no arrow". What speed makes the car run without arrow?
View 19 RepliesI have great success doing pulse and glide in city. I once drove 32 miles non highway at 90mpg in a single trip using this technique. But it seem that it is impossible to do so on the highway, speed goes down too fast during glide. I found that too many pulses on highway actually decrease mpg. How to greatly improve mpg in highway driving?
View 19 RepliesAs I understand it pulse and glide should work at pretty much any speed. I'm trying to adopt pulse and glide but I drive on mostly 55 MPH hilly roads. If I'm in HV mode and have some EV range I find I can only get ICE shutoff below 42+/- MPH. However if I switch to EV mode as I back off the pedal the ICE will shut down at speeds up to 62+/-MPH. Switching from EV to HV while gliding at speeds above 43 MPH causes the ICE to resume turning. So I've tried accelerating to my desired pulse speed in HV coordinating releasing the pedal with selecting EV mode to begin the glide then beginning the next pulse by simultaneously pressing the pedal and mode button. Alternatively I can stay in EV mode for the glide then floor the pedal to restart ICE but that risks getting an undesired higher less efficient ICE power level and doesn't allow lower power pulses to allow glides to begin on downgrades.
View 15 RepliesI'm talking basically about the equivalent of your standard pulse and glide in the regular Prius. But the PiP would allow you to do it up to 62 mph. However, you would manually have to toggle the HV/EV button to do it. It would be tiresome.
View 12 RepliesIs it ok to shift into neutral when the car is moving?
View 19 RepliesBrand new 2015 Pruis two.... Still on 1st tank of gas. Can't get it to glide for more than a second or two generally. I'm experienced at the technique from owning a 2006. Could regularly get 50-60 mpg in that car. New 2015 won't let me glide. Today I had a minor breakthrough when it let me glide for 9 whole seconds! Mostly it bounces me between "charging" and "EV" without giving me a true glide. 1st tank is set to deliver a lackluster 39mpg.
I'm not too worried about that yet because I've spend some time sitting the car (with air) learning all the controls that have changed since 2006. Couple of things I'll try next: I have not driven too much in ECO mode yet... mostly just regular mode. Normal commute 24mi round trip mostly highway. I'll check the tires next trip and the parking brake when I run an errand in a minute. Also whether maybe there was a current software upgrade that's suppressing this?
When I first bought the car I was resetting the trip/mpg every day and getting a daily reading. Then I started to realize that wasn't accurate as a per tank reading. So now I judge my weekly trip/mpg. Currently I am getting 57-59 mpg on the MFD(I do not have a scangauge yet) - so i guess that would equal 54-57 actual.
My commute is 43 miles one way. half of it is mixed city driving a mile of low speed out of my neighborhood to a 55 mph with two 2 mile 35 mph zones and then the second half is interstate.
I have been working on keeping the SOC high for the 55 mph so that i can most of the time slip in and out of high speed "stealth" mode. Usually with the MFD around 69-75? and not drop speed too quickly. maybe a mph per 2 miles depending on the grade.
I try the pulse and glide in the 35 mph zones. coast in, then glide as far as I can and pulse back up. I have been playing with a couple ways,
OPTION 1: use in electric only-takes longer and kills SOC.
OPTION 2: Pulse hard into el+ICE and its crap mpg for a small amount of time. Pulse gently into ICE and decent mpg for a little longer amount of time.
For decades, in preparation for washing our cars, I've been shifting them into neutral without starting up, and rolling them out of the garage. Typically there's a mechanical "keep it in park" lock that needs to be bypassed. Then, once you've released the parking brake, you can open the driver's door and get your car moving in "foot mode".
View 19 RepliesI shift to neutral when approaching a red light when my speed is exactly at 7 mph to save on battery power that would otherwise continue to propel the car forward. Combined with proper timing, this also allows my car to come to a complete stop without the use of brakes on flat roads. Once stopped, I immediately shift back to drive to allow the battery to charge if needed and of course in preparation for the green light.
A few sites, such as Putting your car in neutral at read lights. Good or bad? (red light, manual transmission) - Automotive -Sports cars, sedans, coupes, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, tickets, dealers, repairs, gasoline, drivers... - City-Data Forum mention that shifting from drive to neutral at red lights, then back to drive again when the lights turn green puts wear on automatic transmissions.
Given that the Prius C has CVT, will it also wear, due to such frequent D -> N -> D shifting under the circumstances described?
This chart compares what my C's computer calculated for MPG to simple arithmetic. Seeing consistent optimistic numbers from your computer like I am?
The average error is -2.7 mpg and the STD is 0.85 mpg. So the error is fairly consistent. I also have shown the gallons purchased, but there is no correlation to mpg error.
Is there any harm being done by putting the car in neutral to force a coast then putting it back in "D" to charge up the battery just before coming to a stop? I've changed my driving patterns and started heavy usage of the CC and putting the car in neutral for a forced coast, but putting the car back in D just before coming to a stop or even after the down-slope coast ends. Just before going back up hill.
View 9 RepliesI'm very puzzled by how prius (2008) decides whether to use gas when I coast with neutral (I only do that if there is a long stretch of the road that is going down the hill). Same roads, same driving style, but sometimes, the gas usage goes to 0 but sometime it continue to use gas. Sometimes if you just let it in the gear a little longer or just press the gas pedal, it would go 0 after switching to neutral. There is no consistency that I can come up with the best method to get it to not to use gas and just slide using the gravity and momentum.
I can understand if it has to fill up the battery but when it uses gas at neutral, no transfer of energy among all parts. The diagram (wheel, engines, battery) shows standstill but it still uses gas. I don't have air on and turn the fan to the lowest and it doesn't make any difference.
A few conclusions I had:
It will always use a little gas at highway speed (55 to 70mph).
It appears to use gas at higher humidity (not sure but the MPG is higher when it's humid).
I have a f53 motorhome and 4 out of the 8 injectors pulse. The front 2 and the back 2 don't pulse. The middle 2 on both sides work perfect. Why would they not pulse and only give out positive on the two wires to the injector on the one that don't work. The ones that work they pulse.
View 8 RepliesI got a problem with the injectors there getting power but no pulse, what do i need to do to trace the problem, not sure what to do next!
View 7 RepliesI've had an issue with my 08' for a few weeks after returning from a 1 week vacation with the car sitting on the street in NYC. The symptoms are a noise associated with poor performance of the vehicle. It accelerates slower and requires more RPM. When you take your foot off the accelerator it feels as though there is a brake on or some additional drag somewhere in the front end. It's really evident that it doesn't actually glide, but it decelerates rapidly.
View 19 Replies04 6.0 with no FICM sync and no fuel pulse width. Crank/cam sync yes. All other data is good. Tried known good FICM and PCM but nothing. Had glow plug codes thats it. Found chaffed wires due to mice. Replaced damaged Injector harness still nothing. Fuel pressure is good btw.
View 13 RepliesOn a recent 3k plus trip where I pulsed and glided a ton, when the PIP was in HV mode but gliding in the sweet spot where I had thought the engine would stop turning, no matter how I tweaked the glide, the ICE always turned at a minimum of 998 RPM per my torque app. The display was always showing 999 mpg in that situation so I assume it wasn't using fuel but just rotating freely. Is that the default behavior for HV mode? I,e, always rotating at 998 minimum rpm perhaps so it can kick in quickly if need be without vibration?? If so, the 10k oil change interval seems dicey as the engine is technically turning all the time when in HV mode. I was planning to change at 5k anyway.
View 13 Replies