Prius (Gen 3) Fuel :: How Fast To Accelerate For Maximizing Fuel Economy
Mar 20, 2011
I am wondering about how fast to accelerate for maximizing fuel economy. I understand with the P&G approach that you don't want to get up to speed too slowly. The question is whether it really is more efficient to go ahead and get up to speed or stay within the ECO guidelines? In particular, I find that getting up to highway speed especially that it can take quite a while to get up to 70 mph without having it going into the power range. It seems like it is better to get up to speed and then back off to go to the high efficiency mode.
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Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
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While most of the emphasis I've seen on improving fuel economy seems to focus on warming the car up quickly in cool/cold weather, I seem to be experiencing significant mpg drops at the other end of the spectrum.
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I have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
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I have a 2013 Prius V and my mpg averaged about 43. Now after about 13,000 miles it has gone down some to more like 41-42 and even 39. Once on a mostly highway trip it was down to about 34. Last summer it got 51 mpg in Colorado!
How to get better mileage. I once heard about a feathering technique with the accelerator but I don't know if I understand it.
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Curious? Looking for if the generation 4 Prius' has less road noise and better acceleration?
My generation 3 is quite noisy inside.
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Have not purchased a Prius yet as I have a TDI awaiting results of the lawsuit. I am wondering over the last week or so, Vegas has been really hot. Just wondering how the new battery and the MPG is holding up in the Vegas heat.
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2006 gen II base w/ about 90k miles. Jump in, big scare triangle with multiple other dash lights. POA80 and PO319 codes. Traction battery fail. Fortunately, I was just under the warranty limit (8yrs).
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I got prius i-tech Australia (should be IV or V in US). I just noticed this morning that my fuel economy is better when I got 6-7 bars on battery level, and worsen if i only got 2-4 bars. Is it just my imagination or any explanation for it?
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When using the active cruise control, the acceleration is heavily influenced by the driving mode, with as you could expect eco being more relaxed and power going full steam ahead whenever possible.
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After my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
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Working on a 88 Ranger 2.9L 5-speed ext cab. The fuel pressure drops off fairly fast when turned off and I'm pretty sure that the check valve is bad. My question is, which pump has the check valve? It is a single mid tank set-up and has a pump in the tank and on the frame.
Pressure is fine while running. about 30psi @ idle and 40psi with no vacuum on the regulator. The pressure drops off within a couple of minutes which causes it to have to crank over for a bit to rebuild pressure and start.
It looks like the frame pump is readily available while the in take pump is special order. I just need to know which one has a check valve. I'm thinking the in tank pump, but I hate to waste money for the wrong pump.
Pressure drop rate
30 psi @ shut off
25 psi @ 1:05 min
20PSI @ 2:30 min
15psi @ 4:45 min
still dropping
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Our 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
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Wondering what could cause an increase in fuel economy. My GTI has been running at 29 +/- MPG since the day I bought it, but no higher than 30. I took it out for a ride on Sunday after I changed the front brakes Saturday. The dash tells me it's running at 34. So I filled it up and manually clocked it on a 50 mile trip. I refilled at the exact same pump - just to remove any error. And what I calculated is that the computer is right.
There is no loss of power. However, I've been fighting intermittent misfires on cyl #1 and #2. the misfire on #1 has all but gone away after finding out the coil wasn't sitting right and the spark had loosened up. I've tracked #2 down to either the injector or carbon. I'll be taking care of that next weekend.
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I have the 3.6 and it has been great on fuel economy up until last week. I was averaging about 26mpg and getting near 20 mpg around town. Now my fuel economy has dropped to 15mpg city and 25mpg highway putting the overall MPG down to around 20. What happened? Did I get a bad tank of fuel or is it time for new spark plugs? The car has 34k on it; and when I checked the plugs at 28k they looked like new and gapped to within .002 of the spec.
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I have a 92 Dodge Spirit 2.5L non turbo. I have been getting horrible fuel mileage. Around 17. I have given it a full tune up, including replaced the distributor and hall effect sensor. Why my fuel economy is shot?
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Ok, so I was already getting pretty bad fuel economy from my 3.6 4motion wagon (14/24 city/highway). so last week I take it in to the dealer for 5k oil service. now after the service I get 10/18 (city/highway)!!!!
Car seems to run fine, but for some reason the fuel economy has dropped significantly. Most people on here say they get better economy after the 5k service.
Now the car is at the dealer for a few days for them to check it out. Gave me a old hyundai for a loaner.
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So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
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I have an '06 Subaru Forester (4 cyl, automatic) with about 97,000 miles on it. For the past 5 years I've had the car, it's been getting roughly 26-28 mpg on average. Within the past 3-4 months, though, the fuel economy has dramatically decreased. Now, I'm lucky if I get 21 mpg. (I used to be able to get almost 350 miles per tank, and now if I make it to 275 I'm jumping for joy!)
I took my car to the shop for the 90K service, and they didn't change the fuel filter as a part of that service. (They did replace the coolant, replace oil & filter, replace spark plugs, replace differential fluid front & rear, replace brake fluid, replace auto transaxle fluid, and then they did a bunch of inspections on belts, hoses, brakes, etc.)
I took the car back to the shop after this service so they could change the fuel filter, and they told me that because of the type of fuel filter I have, it should last the lifetime of the car. This sounded a little fishy to me, so is this true?
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Was looking to get some input on possible reasons why I'm getting bad fuel economy. I have a 2003 Jetta TDI with 335 000kms and over the past few months have gone from roughly 1000km/tank (5.3l/100km) to about 700kms per tank (6.7l/100km). The cars timing is spot on. I've changed the air filter. Checked intercooler and maf all of which seem to be fine. I have a VCDS and have gone through many of the values and everything seems to be running fine except for excess pressure.
The map reading is spiking to 2500mbar at about 2800 rpm under full load. Specs on the vagcom say it should be around 2000mbar max. Power is fine and its not smoking other than on start up which on cold morning ( everyone morning here in Canada) seems to stutter quite a bit while idling for the first minute or two. I realize winter gas along with winter tires etc can equate for quite a bit of fuel economy loss but i just cant see losing 300kms / tank.
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I just read in Reader's Digest that some can improve gas mileage by 25% by not putting their car in reverse. This seems like an exaggeration, how can putting a car in reverse be that bad.... like 25% bad? Source: [URL] .....
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