Can you glide (meaning no engine engaging) on straight road without a hill without loosing any speed over 40mph? I only can when my speed is dropping. I can drive all electric around town without EV mode, no problem.
Stock Yokohama's, front and rear @ 40psi. will bump them to 44psi. Also oil is higher the high mark, which I am planing to drain.
Do you think that I should glide when going down a hill and slow down or keep the ICE running and getting some mph? I tend to think that it's better to glide even over 42 mph.
View 14 RepliesI just took a long road trip from Tampa, FL to Houston, Texas and back to Tampa in 5 days. I get 38.9 MPG according to car computer after 2287 miles. My prius is equipped with FRS wheel, 215/50/17 Continental Procontact Ecoplus, Air pressure is 50psi on front and rear. I wonder how much other Prius owners get? I heavy on my foot. I usually keep the speed 75-80mph. The result is also included total ~15 hours idle since I had one night sleep in the car.
View 19 RepliesThe steering wheel on our Prius is not centered when the vehicle is on a flat road going straight.
View 18 RepliesSo, fresh off the new brake actuator pump and new hybrid battery and a nice four hour drive yesterday and today i went over a small bump and started to get a loud clunk/rattle coming from the driver's side front wheel area.
It got worse as I drove home and even rattles going straight on a fairly flat road when i hit only minor imperfections. It sounds like something is loose. I cannot reproduce any noise bouncing the car or rocking it side to side.
Prior to this I would get a squeak/groan from the driver's side when I would go over speed bumps and similar large dips or rises, but that has been curiously quiet for awhile.
When driving in a straight road (even at constant speed) car pulls to right. I have to apply force toward left constantly. Did a wheel alignment, but that didn't fix the issue. Given below is the result sheet.
2009 Avalon Limited
My 93 with 210K miles threw a new one at me the other day. Not 1 mile from work with AC running, it started stumbling a bit at around 40MPH. I just assumed it was the AC cycling and the Van was in OD. Dropped into D and drove her on home.
Well this morning was round 2.... got about 2 miles from home and it started stumbling again (no AC this time). Just happened to look down at my digital dash and the speed was jumping all over, finally settling on 0 MPH. I got about a mile down the interstate and it suddenly reactivated and displayed 70mph.... smooth as silk.
OK, so I know that the rear diff. has a sensor for ABS, and obviously a pulse wheel on the diff. Is this sensor the input for speed? From other makes, I understand the pulse train input is "conditioned" in another device ( hardware) which then outputs to the dash display.
Based on these assumptions, I'm going to assume the crazy speed variation was playing hell with the ECU. When it settled on 0 mph it was happy again. Can't just be a display issue as there would have been no stumble. Getting ready to drive her about 3.5 hours this weekend to go trout fishing.... obviously the cruise won't work but otherwise it appears to function WITHOUT the speed input.
I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
View 4 RepliesNew to the Prius family. Bought a 2014 PIP advanced last week strictly as an economic play. Am noob when it comes to driving techniques, currently average 72 mpg on 90 mi. trips with one charge, so doing better than I expected. I did read up on the Pulse and Glide techniques for the standard Prius and the 'verification' of the glide portion for those is the lack of any power arrows emanating from either the ICS , MG2 or battery on the MID. I have been unable to replicate this on the PIP. In other words, when I am 'gliding' on my PIP, the ICS is off but there always seems to be a green charge indicator flowing back to the batteries from the front wheels.
Keep in mind, my foot is on the accelerator slightly, there is no 'white' bar protruding into the CHG area or the ECO area and I know I am 'gliding/coasting' as no matter how long I am in this sweet spot, even though the charge arrows are active, I DO NOT top up the battery at all, which says to me the car is indeed 'gliding' without the regenerative brakes or ICS in play and it certainly FEELS like I'm gliding as with over-inflated tires (44/42) the PIP seemingly coasts forever. I'm thinking this is a different behavior from a standard Prius in this 'glide' sweet spot, as, at least on my PIP, I can never get the MID to blank out in terms of energy flow. I.E. have you managed a 'pulse and glide' in a PIP getting the all energy flow arrows to disappear .
Bought my prius 2008 about six weeks ago. My commute takes about five to ten minutes and involves dropping the kids off at school. My mileage is 6.1 l per 100 Km. Not great but half of what my Saab takes.
I can often glide the Prius with ICE off shortly after starting the car. However, I have noticed that sometimes the ICE won't switch off after gliding down from higher speeds.
My car has a distinct pull to the left when driving on a flat straight road. If I let go of the steering wheel the wheel actually turns about 5 degrees left of centre and the car goes in that direction.
Had an alignment from lexus edinburgh last year and again from another garage yesterday,
Still pulls and I have to physically hold the steering wheel centre when driving.
Car is 2011 IS F UK
Attached is my alignment spec from yesterday, Is it the caster issue as this can't be adjusted? If it is what's required?
A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
View 8 RepliesI've noticed when trying to maintain a low speed (25-35mph) the car doesn't really like that... Almost feel like the brake is being slightly pushed on and off, or the car is losing power. It's been most noticeable around curves when coasting but having to give it a bit of gas to maintain speed. Shifting overall doesn't seem bad, so it doesn't feel like a tranny issue. I've also sometimes noticed the opposite. Sometimes when coasting then pushing the brake to slightly slow up it almost feels like the throttle is very slightly being pushed. Not sure if I'm having powertrain issues or just not used to the way this car drives. It just get most annoying when trying to maintain 30mph in city and the car occasionally surges a bit.
(2010 camry xle, i4, 97,000 miles)
I have a 1990 celica hatch automatic with 33x,xxx miles on it. the cars always had problems like it would suddenly turn off or the rev would go high but all of thats been fixed
recently the car started losing power and it cant really accelerate to a high speed and speed past 30 and the car will start to shake a lil as if it was gonna turn off and even if i floor it at high speed it doesn't really go anywhere and if i use overdrive the rpm shoots way higher then usual.
Do i need new engine or is it other problem? my friend said it could be distributor?
I just have my 2013 Prius C3 for two months and few days back I noticed that the Slip Indicator light blink a few time when I went through pot hole/uneven road (low speed, ~20mph). In the same time, I can hear as if there is a piece of metal sheet somewhere in the car vibrated. Is this normal?
View 10 RepliesOne morning I went to start my 2000 Accent, 1.5L Auto and the engine couldn't get going. I had road service come look at it and they said the problem was the fuel pump, I then got the car towed home. I changed the fuel pump and everything was working great again. I then changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter and flushed/refilled the oil. I used the car very lightly for a few days and had no problems.
Then yesterday I took the car about a 30 min drive, when on a main road my engine begun loosing power and I couldn't accelerate, as if the engine was not getting fuel. I managed to pull over safely and after about 30 mins of not getting anywhere I decided to hit around my fuel tank/pump with my club lock many times and what do you know the car starts and I manage to drive it about 25 mins, I was almost home when the same thing happened. I pulled over, waited, hit the tank and finally drove all the way home.
When I originally changed the fuel pump everything seemed fine, the plastic pump housing and everything attached to it appeared in great condition. So my hunch is that the problem would be where the fuel actually enters the engine block? The way that everything works fine until driving for roughly 25 mins makes me think the problem may be dependent on the temperature of the engine, given that's the main variable that changes?
I bought a 2011 Toyota Corolla brand new and the last several winters in the snow the traction has been terrible. Even at very slow speeds, it is difficult to get the car going and keep it straight on snowy roads. I have a 2007 Corolla also that was bought new and never had these similar issues with that car. The current tires on the 2011 car are Bridgestone Insignia SE with about 20k miles on them. But even with less miles, traction has always been an issue.
View 19 RepliesI've got a 2007 Touring with 40k miles on it. Never had any issues until about 2k miles ago, when we started noticing noise while driving on the freeway. The higher the speed, the louder the noise. It starts to be noticeable at about 40mph and gets really annoying at 65 - 75mph. It seemed to come from the RH-side, and the dealer was quick to blame it on out-of-alignment tires. Dealer 'investigation' was about 2k miles ago.
We've changed and aligned the tires this week; alignment on all four corners was almost within tolerances (off by a small amount). I've also changed the oil, since it was due.
Nevertheless, the noise is still there; now it seems to have 'moved' directly in front of the driver. What could it be?
I have a 2006 F250 with a 6 liter diesel I got about a hundred sixty thousand miles on it I've had it bullet-proofed haven't had too many problems with it I thought the fuel pump went out yesterday so I replaced it drove fine for a few hours then it started losing power and like it wasn't getting fuel and died I got it home took a test light and check for power at the fuel pump I don't have any positive or negative power ran a hot wire and a ground straight from the battery and hooked it up to the pump and it worked but when I plug the factory wiring back into it and turn the key on I don't have any power I checked the fuses they're fine...
View 6 RepliesGot a Vr6 a couple weeks ago and recently the gauge has been acting strange. Few days ago the gauge went from normal to showing completely empty and did that for a couple days (gauge would just display normal and occasionally just drop straight to empty and sit there until restart) but yesterday it started just sitting on full. Even when restarted just goes to full. I assume its the sender unit ....
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