My Prius waste gas by always starting the engine. Even with the battery indicator at full charge. Every time the Prius is shut down, like leaving the car to go into the store for 3 minutes or more or backing Prius out of garage, the engine starts up and runs for about 4 minutes, regardless of being fully charge or not.
View 19 RepliesHere is my question.. 94 Z28 38K 6spd. Starts right up and runs well, for about 15-20 minutes then will shut down( like the key was turned off) When this happens I have no signal to either the ignition module or to the injectors.
This car was damaged by an idiot that flooded the dist. with coolant doing a flush. They replaced it with a Advance auto remain. This is when the trouble started. I did replace the I/M with an AC OEM Module, no change, verified all wiring from the computer to the Dist. and I/M. All checked out. I am thinking that the cheap remain unit is my problem and am looking to get the MSD Opti spark system to hopefully fix and to prevent this problem from happening again.
I cannot retrieve codes (94 won't flash CEL codes). Is there any other method of diag I could use to verify my suspicions. Oh, there is not response from the Tech either once the engine dies.
I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
View 2 RepliesI have a '77 F250 with a 460. (Under edit) It has a holley 750 carb. (under 2 years old). It ran fine for about 2 years and now all the sudden it seems to not get enough fuel. I have a clear fuel filter on it and you can see that it is full of fuel when I first start it up. Just letting it sit there and idle after about 5 minutes it starts to show air coming through the lines and it gets worst the longer it runs.
If I take it out on the road and drive 55 it will be about 1 or 2 miles and it acts like it's not getting fuel. I stop and open the hood and check the filter and it is empty. What could cause this? I took it to an old Ford machanic and he has checked the fuel pump, fuel lines, sending unit, and gas tank. He is at a loss. I am no mechanic, but I am mechanicly inclined. I can't see it would be that hard to figure out. What do I do?
My 2001 Prius (230,000 miles) is unusable. I can clear the codes. The engine will start up fine. After a few seconds it starts bucking and jerking as if the engine is trying to engage something that won't turn and finally stalls. It is similar to a manual transmission car's action if you fail to push the clutch in when you stop the car. What the engine is trying to engage? I don't have any scanner to read the codes.
View 7 RepliesIs it normal? I tried to find a discussion about this in this forum but couldn't find anything.
When coasting over 35 mph, when the speeds reaches 35, the engine (or ICE as you prefer) is starting for a second then stops. I really don't see why it would do that.
My truck starts and runs fine cold. after 10 minutes or so of driving, it starts choking and stalls. If you try to start it, it will not. If you wait about 3 minutes, it is fine, starts , and drives ok, for about 3 minutes. I have replaced, plugs, fuel filter, battery, and a ignition module, as well as cleaned the opening of the throttle body
Ford has ordered a fuel pump, I am thinking it could be the
-Throttle position Sensor?
-MAF sensor?
-fuel pump?
It puts out code p0191 for low fuel pressure. Ford is scheduled to install new pump in am, but I don't want to spend a grand if it is just the TPS or MAf?
We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
View 7 RepliesCar starts runs rough for a few seconds then shuts off (spark plugs and 2 coils were replaced a few months ago). Coolant reservoir level was way low so I filled to the full line, kept the cap off to cycle. During the time the car starts, the coolant from the reservoir violently "boils" over (out of the reservoir). Huge amount of white smoke from the rear exhaust and a burning smell.
Used Techstream and got the following codes:
Engine and ECT: P0117, P0302, P3190, P3191
Hybrid Control: P0A0F
Intermittently get misfile codes but this time around they did not return.
Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
View 3 RepliesOk.... So I took my car for a drive to see my friend, started normally....... After an hour or so I left and this time the car cranks but will not fire........ This same problem happened in the dead of winter...... So I remove the key and let the car sit for 15 minutes and then boom it starts as it normally would.........
View 1 RepliesI have a '92 Ranger with a 2.3 liter engine. She starts and runs a couple of seconds and shuts down. I'm thinking maybe a fuel pump is not putting out thepressure needed. Gotta go to work tomorrow and gotta get the truck running today.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius touring edition. The passenger headlight starts on but then turns off after about 10 minutes. How to fix this issue?
View 5 RepliesMy A/C light starts flashing after about 30 minutes of use. The A/C is still cold while it's running, but it warms up when the light starts blinking.
At this point I'm planning on replacing the clutch assembly. How far apart do I need to take the car so I can reach the clutch? Is there something else I can test to see if the compressor is on its last legs, before I put money into the clutch?
Engine shutdown then starts after a few minutes....
Jeep cherokee 4.8L 2000 .....
When is cold, the engine starts but stops after 2-3 minutes. I can not start until after standing for 2-3 hours, and again stops.When I try to start, signs that would not fill with gasoline.What should I check first, what should be changed?
It was....now engine don't start!
Pontiac Trans Sport 1996,2.3l,16v,Quad4 DOHC
I have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
View 10 RepliesMy 2006 Prius has 165,000 miles. I haven't had any major issues but twice in the last 2 weeks, I've had my fuel gauge go from low (2-3 bars), to one bar, to having the "add fuel" message in less than a half hour. The second time I actually did run out of gas so it's not just that the gauge is faulty. When I ran out of gas, my battery also appeared on it's last bar. After putting gas in it, the car ran fine and the battery perked up. The only recent maintenance was break pad and disk replacements but I've not noticed any drag or difficulty braking.
View 8 RepliesI start the car, with AC on, radiator fan starts and within a few minutes the engine radiator fan stops working, idles rough since the AC compressor pump keeps cycling on and off and engine starts to overheat. After shutting down I check the engine cooling fan fuse and it sure enough is blown.
How do I determine as to where the short is? Is the short in the wiring somewhere or can the actual motor short out?
Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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