Prius (Gen 3) :: Engine Shimmy When Ease Off Throttle To Level Out Speed
Dec 7, 2015
This just started 2 weeks ago and has progressively gotten worse. I can take off fine, but when i ease off the throttle to level out my speed (it can be at 30mpg or 70mph it doesn't matter) I get a shimmy in the engine. If i give it gas or let totally off the throttle it goes away.
I've even heard some clanking a few times. Almost feels like a car with a broke engine mount...other than the fact it only does it when leveling out.
I had a local shop just check the basics underneath, axles, mounts etc and they said it looked fine.
No engine light so I don't feel its a sensor. Kinda of makes me think the link between the electric motor and the gas motor is sending mixed signals.
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My truck has been doing great lately after the major surgery she's been through. She is an '06 F-250, with about 238k miles. I've noticed a few days ago that there is a grinding noise and feeling in the gas pedal. (Or diesel pedal..? ) I can feel it right when I slightly ease into the throttle. It goes away once I'm up and going. But its the kind of grinding that sort of worries me. It is also apparent when in reverse, almost more noticeable.
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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Diagnosing our 2006 Hyundai Sonata.....2.4 L engine....automatic.
While cruising along, about 40mph and up I guess...when traveling at a steady throttle and engine speed... if you ever so slightly give it more gas, sometimes it will act as though it is losing power for a second and then kick back in.....but revs will stay up....
I was thinking either throttle position sensor or (gasp) transmission.....it doesn't really feel like a slipping tranny....but wondering if it is issues with the overdrive...
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Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
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07 f250 has a shimmy from the rear at highway speed. Has new tires is worse with a load. What am I missing here?
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Up until my last oil change at 105,000 miles, I didn't notice any oil usage. When draining my oil, it didn't look like it was quite 4 quarts. After the oil change, I ensured that I had the engine EXACTLY topped off to the upper mark on the dipstick. Around 600 miles later, I parked in the same location and have noticed that the oil level has dropped enough to notice.
I am guessing that I will lose well over a quart between oil changes. Before I resign to the normal mechanical reasons (rings, cylinder wear, etc.), The loss doesn't seem to be gradual which has me looking for other explanations. I also had a Toyota mechanic go over the car and replace the other fluids and filters at 100,000 miles (coincidence I think ).
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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Recently I started to hear engine pinging/knocking-like noise when the hybrid battery level becomes low like two bars and the car starts a charge cycle. I also hear it occasionally when I accelerate on uphill. Is this normal or should I take it to a mechanic?
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I would like to know how to check the fluid lever on this car I have been told there is a fill hole and that's where its checked, how this is done. I know they say its filled for life but I would like to know if its full or not...
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I recently got a 2002 f150 5.4. The fan speed works on 1 & 2, and 4. It does blow on level 3, but it seems to blow at the same cfm as level 2. I'm thinking this can't be right. But, if it was a simple resistor issue, it wouldn't run at all on level 3, right? So, where I should look first.
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I recently took a long drive, and on 2 occasions, I heard the engine revving up when just simply cruising steadily at 70-80mph with little throttle input. I checked the LCD screen drive-train diagram, and there's no indicated of the engine turning during the revving. The car does not accelerate during the revving. Happens say for 10 - 20 seconds each time. To stop the revving, I simply give it a bit of throttle. I'm not on Cruise Control. Its a strange feeling, and I hope this isn't connected to the runaway Prius syndrome.
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I've been using full synthetic 0W-20 oil since it was new(2010 Prius. It is an early build). Last time I had an oil change was about a year and a half ago, oil has 8,000 miles on it. I ran the car hard today at wide open throttle around town. Never driven this way for the past 68,000 miles/5 years. All fluid levels are normal. When I went to check the oil dipstick after running the car at WOT a few times, I noticed a few flakes on the dip stick. Nothing big, just a 1-2 flakes very small flakes every time I reinsert the dip stick. Flakes are about the size of a single dust particle. It's 86 degrees out, which supposedly 0W-20 should protect the engine.
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Having trouble with a shimmy at 65-75mph .....
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When traveling over bridges that have a ribbed steel ramp over the draw portion of the bridge, my 2012 Gen III does a slight shimmy.
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When attempting to back slowly the T2 revs the engine to about 1700 and tries to over power my brake. My foot is on the brake not the gas at all. The harder you hold the brake the more the T2 tries to over power it. It cause the truck to lunge when you ease off the brake. The is amplified by any pitch to what you backing up. Any slope makes it worse.
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I have a 1999 Hyundai Accent manual transmission. It's been a great car but over the past few months there is a problem that the mechanics can't figure out. The car is fine driving initially. Once it's warmed up, parked for about an hour, and started up again, it bucks every time I ease up on the gas. It seems to be worse at slow speeds - 30 or under - but still occurs at higher speeds.
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I've seen a couple of threads on this and it all seems to easy with little explanation. Any issues with breaking the tabs or mirrors themselves? Is there any trick to popping out the side mirrors with ease? I'm going to install blue heated blind spot mirrors tonight and wanted to hear a little feedback.
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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I got a Toyota Celica 2001 recently from my dad and when I put the throttle all the way to the grown it barley speeds up as if it has some kind of throttle limiter so I can't speed everything else is fine it's a manual I just can't give it gas if I want to speed up really fast or race whatever the case is. How to remove the limiter or whatever else it is ?
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1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
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