Prius (Gen 3) :: EV Cancelled Due To High Speed While Doing Single Digits MPH?
Oct 4, 2010
I'm a new member learning to use my Prius. I like to use the EV mode in parking lots or to back up from my garage or driveway and avoid running the engine just to warm it up because it warms up quicker and efficiently while driving with engine on (gently of course).
I had a few times when EV was cancelled due to "too high speed" and engine started while I was creeping at very slow speeds (<10 MPH). Today it happened twice. First when I was slowly driving in a flat parking lot of DOR where I got my new Prius plates and later it happened when I was slowly exiting from a parking garage DOWNHILL while braking and regenerating. The battery was almost full all the times it happened (so far it stays almost full all times). The driving distances were very short, like couple of hundreds of feet the most.
I can understand why that would happen while driving uphill (I had that too), but flat or downhill at 10 MPH or less?
I don't think the speed sensor is bad, because I also had EV canceled a few times exactly at 25 MPH and that is normal.
Other than that the EV is great. My house is at the lowest point of the subdivision and if I watch my speed carefully (<25 MPH, incidentally a speed limit) I can go entire mile back home in EV and charge the battery to full state in the process by regenerative braking. By doing my average MPH jumped from 50 to 52 and I just started doing it.
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I've had this car for a couple of years now and I think this week is the first time I didn't 'fill up' when I got gas. So now the trip computer is all confused on miles to empty vs the almost half tank I have on the fuel gauge. I've tried resetting the trip & holding the button to reset when miles to empty is displayed. I'm a little nervous with the miles to empty in the single digits now.
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Recently relocated from Southern California to Central Indiana. Brought with me a 1992 Lexus LS400 in excellent condition and low milage. Problem is; when temps go down to single digits, doors freeze shut and it's a big problem opening. Question... is there something I can apply to the doors or seals to prevent this problem. I believe this is the first freezing temps this vehicle has been exposed to.
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When the temperatures drop to the single digits and below, my car won't start. It won't even turn over! I turn the key and there's nothing. So, I sit in the car and then turn the key again. I wait. Then turn the key again. Within about 5-10 minutes, the car starts and its good to go! I've had a new battery installed. And even with the new battery, it does the same thing. At the shop, they check the battery and say it's fine.
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I've gotten it a couple of times lately while turning at slow speed. The first guess is always the CV joint/boot - but wouldn't that be multiple pops?
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I recently installed a 42 DD DP in my 2012 CW Golf R. I have noticed that under high load (mostly down shifts) that something is knocking under the car. It is a single bang sound and only happens under high load. I did the DP install myself and I have since done a quick check to see if the exhaust is loose. It is not. I have checked the Drive shaft and all the bolts are tight. I suspect it is the exhaust hitting something but I don't know what.
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My Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
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I have a 2009 Gen. II with 48000 miles on it and it started having a high pitch noise when driving. Thought it was wind noise at first but does it at low speeds also. When you roll the right passenger side window down you can hear it much louder sounds like it is coming from the right front.
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I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
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I've got an '04 Pkg IX with about 68k miles on it.
I've noticed that at speeds of greater than 60mph there is a distinct ticking noise (like the sound a bicycle makes when you turn the wheel "tick tick tick"). The noise is coming from the front end, sounds like near the passenger area.
The minute you drop down to speeds of around 50 or less it goes away.
I'm probably going to have to take it in to the dealer since I've already had an indy look at it.
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How the radiator fan goes into high speed? My 2006 Prius A/C works great as long as I am moving. But when stopped in traffic or at a light, the radiator fan does not go into high speed. So the A/C shuts off until I can get cool air back through the condenser.
I replaced the two fan relays, and when I do the fans run into high speed for a moment, then back to slow speed. Is there a temperature sending unit in the Prius I can replace?
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My Prius c has always made a high speed whirling noise when braking but now at speeds of 42 to 46 MPH this high speed whirling noise is there and when you are just coasting have a noisy transmission or is this something I should be getting to the dealer with.
EVCT transmission noise ....
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Just 2 months old car with 1100 miles on it suddenly chokes, vibrates profoundly when it slows down from high speed and turns the check engine malfunction light on ...
Dealer checks and finds following codes P0171(too lean), P0441 Purge & P0455 Gross leak ...
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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Started yesterday. Dry road. Brand new Perrelli P4s . at about 60-65 traction control comes on and car starts doing the "surging". I had the same tires on it up to this point so except for being new,no difference.
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I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
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My father in law has a 2011 Prius -3 - with 135,000 miles on it. He has an interesting issue. The front windshield wipers work on low and medium. When he tries to put them on high, the wipers barely moves. When I drop the stalk back at med or low and it works as if nothing is wrong. I have checked the 30amp fuse and it looks fine. I do not hear any grinding or noise when the wipers are working. I think it could be the motor. However before I go out and purchase the motor, I wanted to make sure there was anything else I could be missing... The dealer wanted 340 for parts and install.. .I know I can do the job myself as I have worked on their other Prius - 2005 with 240,000 miles and counting.
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I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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Have the dimming red readout problem? I start the car and it's normal and then after driving for a while the led screen drops out and you barely see the digits?
Also, the digital speedo in the same screen does not read accurately, it doesn't keep up with the real speed changes and it just shows a speed and then gets stuck.
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The odometer only displays partial pieces of the digital numbers. Can this be fixed? If so, how would you go about it?
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