When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
View 2 RepliesI don't plug my PiP in often due to the cost of electricity here, but what I have noticed that when it has a full charge, around 13Miles, it will quickly drop down to 7-8, even when not using EV. Meaning, I start up car, turn off EV and the motor gets warm. Engine shuts off and I drive normally using the ICE. Over the course of a few miles, I'd say about 10, that EV range slowly drops down to 7-8 and then maintains itself around there. Pretty much the whole time I would have been using the ICE to maintain ~70MPH on the highway, not climbing, just flat.
View 6 RepliesI am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
View 3 RepliesWhere I live people on the highway accelerate quickly. I try to stay in the EV range up to 15 mph but, when I do someone is up my rear end.
However, when I accelerate manually in EV mode I can accelerate up to 25 mph with the flow of traffic.
My concern with repeatedly accelerating up 25 mph in EV mode will be harder ( lessen the life ) on the battery or the transmission or the electric motors.
I'm guessing it's safe for the electric motors and the transmission because the plug in prius can accelerate up to 62 mph and it's fine.
However th
So is it 100% safe for the car to repeatedly accelerate out of EV mode?
PiP or traditional Prius users could tell me the quickest way to accelerate when in EV mode of HV ONLY mode? So I find acceleration is good in TRUE EV mode where I can keep up with regular traffic from a dead stop, however after I have used that batteries resources up I try to use EV of the HV only mode as much as possible.
I find that in EV of HV only mode to be so slow from a dead stop. I try to press the pedal so that the I go to the halfway bar or max of EV mode. However it barely gets the car moving. I figure this is how the traditional Prius works. I think if I was to try to use this EV power to get to 25 mph it would take 15 seconds!
I found that it is nearly impossible to accelerate from a stop in normal mode without hitting the red bar zone without getting shot.
View 19 RepliesMy 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
View 11 RepliesI have found that when I accelerate quickly, while entering the expressway or getting around a semi for example, a burning smell enters the car. I imagine it's oil but uncertain. The smell occurs shortly after the quick acceleration and it doesn't occur consistently.
View 14 RepliesI have 3 sound bytes/videos. Probably best to listen with headphones or decent speakers to get the full effect. The issue has gotten worse. Seems to be worse especially in the a.m. when cold.
When I accelerate fairly quickly, not wide open, there is a weird noise of whooshing air, his or escaping air etc. It could be described as some type of whirring noise too.
I can let off the throttle and push slowly into it and it goes again. Only happens under a decent amount of engine load. Doesn't seem to matter what gear as long as it is under the same type of engine load.
It is coming from the passenger side engine bay as far as I can tell since I'm driving.
Here are the links: YouTube ....
My 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
My Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
View 3 RepliesMy standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
I was driving and went to accelerate quickly and had no power, checked the boost gauge and it had very low boost. Continued like this the rest of the drive, all gauges normal, no check engine light, not towing or hot. Got home then next time out it was back to normal.
Someting to be concerned about? Or just a computer hiccup. Truck is '13 with 66k.
So the other day as I was trying to accelerate my car had absolutely no power at all. it almost seemed like it went into a limp mode or something of the sort. No matter what gear or how much gas i gave it, it barely chugged along at more than an idle. I pulled over turned it off, then waited a few seconds and turned it back on, same deal. Once more, I turned it off and back on and finally, it seemed to be ok. It flashed a warning light but it cleared after I turned off the car.
View 4 RepliesSo anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
View 3 Replies