Prius (Gen 3) :: Check Engine Light Came On - No Apparent Reason
Jul 27, 2012
A month ago my check engine light came on so, after checking to ensure the gas cap was screwed on correctly, I did what the manual recommended and took my car directly to the dealership. After paying a diagnostics fee and losing my car for an entire day while they ran tests and contacted Toyota, my dealership told me they couldn't find a problem and just reset the indicator.
Within a few days the light came on again but before I had a chance to take it back to the dealership it went off. Now some 3 weeks later it is on again and I'm wondering what to do.
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The only thing I can think of is that it came on because I hadn't run the ICE in a very long time. My trip B indicated that I had done 114.7 miles since the last time the ICE fired up. That's about 184 kilometers but I know that it is supposed to fire at 200 kilometers (about 124 miles). ICE firing up earlier than 200 kilometers?
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Just had my first battery boost for my year-old Prius 2K10.
This morning I went to start the car, it didn't open the door for me, then I had all troubles in the world turning the key ... And obviously nothing was opening, no lights, nothing.
I had my car boosted. First time they put the booster, I couldn't start the car (everything showed up but starting the car didn't start the conventional motor - the lights were all on). They unplugged it (everything disappeared yet again) and plugged it back in ... Then I could start my car. Of course, everything was reset: time, trip meters, everything.
That's where I noticed my battery indicator was half-full.
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The engine on our Ford Expedition (2003) has started quitting for no reason. The engine light does not come on. We might be driving and it just stops or stopped at a light or turning into the driveway and it just turns off. Often it we simply turn it back on and it is fine but occasionally it is difficult to restart.
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I just took advantage of incentives and traded in my 2012 PiP for a 2015. In hilly San Francisco I'm accustomed to between 8 and 9 all-electric miles per full charge. Today was the new PiP's maiden voyage--a six-mile trip that in the old car would leave me with 2.1 to 2.3 EV miles remaining (per the readout.) But the new car actually ran out of electric power just before the trip's conclusion.
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Have had my 2011 Prius all of 4 weeks. Followed PC for months before the purchase, practice pulse/glide regularly and have really change driving habits to increase MPG. First tank was 51 MPG, than 48, 46 and now 45. each one was 75% city driving, 25% freeway.
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Got in the car this morning and started it up. Other than it being -6 degrees out, nothing unusual. The damn check engine light came on. Nothing seemed unusual driving it. Will be checking it tomorrow.
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I think i need to change the censor but i'm not sure and i don't want to spend money if i don't have to.
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We ended up jumping the car and it started up with no problem. I let it idle for a bit but then all of the light on my dash came on..... I reved the engine a bit and they all went away.
A few days pass and the car starts up with no problem. Then I get stuck sitting in underground parking, so I turn the car off while I wait for the cars to exit the garage... again listening to music with the car off... go to start and nooooo juice! Being that the car is manual I was able to get it rolling and then popped the clutch..
224,000kms and counting.... all OEM
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My wife just had an issue today on her 2009 base sedan. The TPMS came on for no apparent reason. Tire pressure was good all the way around. Cleared the code, which shut off the light, only to have it come back on 20 mi. later. What the cause could be?
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My aunt came to me the other day about her car not starting and I found that the battery was shot and would not accept a jump start so i replaced that and then yesterday it died again with the new battery so naturally, I replaced the alternator. After swapping the alternator I jumped the car ran it for about 20 mins and told her to follow me to grab some food. When she proceeded to back out the car died again!!!
So I tightened the belt on the alternator a little more, jumped it and let it run a little bit. This time I went through all the basic electronics lights blinkers brakes ect except ac and radio. then i back out and pull back in the parking spot and I was thinking pow it's fixed.
So I turn on the A/C and i notice the sound of the RPMs go down which doesn't concern me too much but when I looked at the RPM gauge it was erratic but the engine wasn't fluctuating with it. So I turned the ac off checked the A/C fuses they were fine. Tried turning the A/C on one more time and this time, RPM gauge stops reading all together and the A/C light was flickering very quickly.
I'm not good with the electronic side of the car but I am leaning towards a very bad grounding issue or short. I have no multi-meter so I haven't read any voltages but I am going to see if I can borrow one from my cousin.
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I Have A 2001 Ram 1500 With The 318 5.2 Engine , Oil Pressure Jumps From 40 To 0 For No Apparent Reason, And Then Lifters Began To Tick. Turn Off Truck And Recrank Oil Pressure Returns To 40 Lbs, Rev Up Engine To 2000 Rpm Or Better And Pressure Goes To 0 Instantly. I Have Replaced Sending Unit, Replaced Oil Pump And Pickup, Changed Oil And Filter Using Dodge Filter, Removed Valve Covers And Intake Cleaned Out All Sludge, Tried 3 Different weights Of Oil, Cleaned Oil Passages, Inspected Oil pump Drive Shaft, Pulled Rear Main Cap And Inspected Bearing , Looked Good, Changed Oil And Filter 3 Times , Engine Is Very Clean. Engine Never Has Low Oil Pressure Either 0 Or 40 Lbs Never 10 Or 20. I Have Heard Others Describe This But Never Heard The Answer . Truck Has 70,000 Miles ,runs And Sounds Perfect When Oil Pressure Is At40. It Can Idle At 40 Lbs Hot, Which Leads Me To Believe Bearing Clearances Are Fine.
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