Prius (Gen 3) :: Changing Front Sway Bar Bushing With PU Version?
Jul 25, 2013
Trying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
View 1 RepliesTrying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 2.4 lots of movement in front sway bar so trying to change bushing. Have it on a hoist and still can't get to the rear bolts to remove them have 3 different socket sets power ratchet and different spanner sets. Is there a DIY write up on this or pictures as I have not been able to find one?
View 3 RepliesMy Ex has a 4-inck Sky Jacker lift and I need to replace one of the sway bar end link bushing. Is the bushing size same as the stock ones? Need to know so I can order the right ones. What is the Energy Suspension part#....
View 1 RepliesI have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
View 6 Replies2016 2L Escape. My question is this. I've had the vehicle for the past 12 months and each rainy season here in California, I admit its not often we get rain but we have it now and its about time. Anyway while driving in wet conditions I get a squeak from what I think is the right rear sway bushing and it only happens during starting out, stopping and parking lot speed bumps all at low speed. No noise at when driving at speed. I've had it to the dealer 3 x to fix, they grease the bushing and it seems ok for awhile but not he permanent fix I was hoping for.
View 1 RepliesI did change my motor mounts this weekend but when I tried to remove the sway bar,one of the nuts jammed on the bolt. Let me explain:The nut unscrewed well until the lasts mm, and then, the bolt head came loose, so it was spining freely with no way to remove it but cutting it, the bolt seems to be BUILT IN the alum. bracket that supports the engine mount. Question: can I change this bolt or is it really built in the bracket? I searched on ETKA but it just shows the nut and I can't find the bolt that I need.
View 1 RepliesBoth of my front sway bar links have a bad joint and are making a bad noise.. I purchased the replacements and tried to loosen the nuts with no success. I put some oil to loosen them and will let them set over night. Next attempt will include a breaker bar.
View 4 RepliesMy car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
what the lowest version of iOS that will work with the Audio System for a 2012 Prius? Couldn't find this info. in the manual.
View 4 RepliesI'm pulling my control arms to replace the bushings (they were completely split) and I'm trying to get the right one off. How the heck did you get the boot out on the front passenger side?! See pics. The bolt jams right up to the oil pan. The only way I see it is to remove the pan. Is this right?!?!
View 6 RepliesFor some months, I've heard squeaking noise from passenger side suspension. Sound like it's from shock & spring on bump road.
This video sound is very similar : Squeaking Noise, Front Driver Side - YouTube ...
I looked at my suspension. and found rubber bushing is broken. Driver's side bushing is normal.
Is this noise related to the broken bushing?
Is it easy to replace the rubber by myself?
A guy said ATP AT-205 reseal will fix this noise in Youtube video. Is it true?
How To Fix Squeaks In Your Car - YouTube ....
Need to change an 02 front wheel bearing. Can the the bearing be replaced without taking hub off? It slides or presses in.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 echo, and I need some work done on it. I'm pretty sure that my engine mounts are bad, and I know that my front bushings are shot. What should I expect to pay for the bushings/mounts to be replaced? Also, how do I know if my engine mounts are bad? Note that I am a college student living on campus, so doing the bushings will be next to impossible.
View 2 RepliesI'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
The driver side front body mount bushing on my 2014 is gone which has the grill sitting on the bumper. I started to replace it, but the bolt is sized to the nut. ran off about 1/2 inch and that is it, it will not tighten or loosen anymore.
I cut the head off the bolt, but can not get the body high enough to remove the old bushing so i can cut the nut off flush with the rad support. Now I am trying to get the air filter box out so i can cut the top of the "nut cage" off to remove the bolt and nut out the top. but i can not figure out how it is held in.
I have the intake disconnected and the filter hat off, overflow tank hose disconnected, and two bolts holding the whole thing to the fender out, but it will still not budge. What am I missing here?
Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
View 3 RepliesI changed the front brake pads, took all the precautions during the change, did not disconnect the 12 v battery, pumped the brake pedal 12 times, started the car and no warnings. Now the brake pedal is a little spongy, if I press the pedal to the floor the VSC/TRAC light comes on, to reset it I have to press on the pedal again and the brakes do work.
View 11 Replies2004 prius. I change the brakes on various cars all the time, and never had this problem. After I changed both sides, I started the car, and saw 4 lights:
- Red brake light
- The yellow exclamation light
- ABS light
- VSC light
The car now stops funny, and reading the service manual, it says that if there's a failure detected, that it will revert back to very basic braking (no abs, only fronts, etc..)... As I was exiting off the fwy, I realized this when one of my front wheels locked up, even and I was not stopping very well. Scared the crap out of me.
In any case, I can't see what I may have done which would cause a failure. The only thing I could think of is to bleed the brakes again, but I did this and think it's ok. Is there anything else I can check or is this something I have to get serviced? I saw another thread where they suspected the actuator, but it is somewhat a coincidence that it would go bad after I replace the pads? I'm not sure how the regenerative brakes works on a prius, and whether there's anything I could visually inspect to see if I bumped something???
My Tig has been doing a sharp clunk (single) for awhile when going a bit too fast over speed bumps. I just ignored it, as I'm not flying over bumps regularly and I had just replaced the OEM struts all around. Now when accelerating over 60 kph the car has a side to side shimmy. Also when compressing or unloading the front end suddenly, like with dips on the road, makes it clunk. Checking the various suspension components?
View 6 RepliesI'm going to have my front sway bar mounting bushings replaced with poly bushings next week. Shop said they wanted to order 19mm bushings for my car, but everything I see online says its a 21mm bushing. Which is correct? It's a 2004 R32.
View 1 RepliesI want to change the front sway bar links on a 2005 Camry that has been driven in central New York (ice, salt, corrosion) for 10 years. There is definite wiggle and noise. I recently replaced the ball joints. That was difficult. How difficult is it to remove the sway bar links? Looks like a 5MM or so allen wrench is supposed to hold the ball joint type link to allow 18MM nut to be removed. A 5MM allen wrench is about 4 inches long and skinny. An 18MM wrench is about 12 inches long and beefy. I am skeptical about breaking the nut loose.
Will I need to heat the nut? If yes, how? With a simple propane torch? If yes, how does that work? Apply heat and wait for a sound that indicates the rust has broken? Apply heat for a time, try to hold with the allen wrench and try to undo the nut? Keep trying that again and again until it works? This would be after multiple rust busting spraying to make this easier. I used a 4 inch grinder to grind the nuts off the ball joints to remove them (I know how that sounds, but that is what I did). Thoughts about that for the sway bar links? I am a bolt turner who can stand some aggravation.