Prius (Gen 3) :: Black Box With A Threaded Stud
Jun 6, 2012
If I lift the carpeting on the left side of the trunk and lift the panel, there is a black box with a threaded stud sticking up. There is no fastener on this stud. This may be the mount for the flux capacitor, an option I chose not to get.
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2004 Toyota Echo 5-door hatchback (Canadian): Trying to replace the rear wiper arm assembly (VERY expensive)... Struggled - and finally succeeded - to remove the corroded nut that secures the arm in the motor shaft, but apparently the arm mount "cylinder" is similarly corroded to the motor shaft...
How best I might free this arm and remove it, without compromising the threaded shaft from the motor? I believe the threads are only at the top, where the 10mm nut secures the arm to the shaft.. and that the shaft itself is smooth (as is the inside of the blade "cylinder" that slide down over that shaft).
This vehicle shares the identical rear wiper arm assembly/motor with the 2004~2006 Scion Xb models.
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I've been told by friends driving behind me that every time I accelerate I emit a plume of black smoke followed by a stream of black colored "water". I checked today by having the wife rev the engine to 4.5k...sure enough, black water shoots out of my exhaust, probably 3 oz. I also see a black puff of smoke which I assume is more normal than the water. Is this commonplace ?
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I need the part number for wiper rack. Stud busted on the passenger wiper when doing the ecu.
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My 2007 Prius MFD is black 98% of the time. Every once in a while the screen will come on and function properly for a short period of time then go out again. It appears to be a bad connection.
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We bought our 2007 Prius a few months ago used. It has a small black square on the dash on the passenger side. what it is? Is it a factory item or aftermarket?
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I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
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So I was replacing a wheel stud and while taking the caliper out, I accidentally unscrewed the brake fluid bolt and it drained a little bit of fluid out. I had to decompress the caliper to put the brake pads in.
Everything was placed back the correct way, now the brake feels too spongy and I have to press the pedal all the way to stop the car. not feeling safe.
I'm not sure what needs to be done here.. did I somehow get air in the system? the brake fluid cap was on the whole time.
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2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
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I have a broken exhaust stud on my 2004 Aviator. The stud broke even with the nut surface, not flush with the head. It's also the easiest stud to access without removing the manifold.
I center punched the stud and started to drill it, but unfortunately the chuck of my drill interfered slightly with the heat shield and caused me to drill off center. I sprayed the bolts for the heat shield down, let them soak overnight, then tried to remove them but the very first one broke off. So I bought a drill bit extension and aimed the drill hole back toward the center, but that's not working much. I have a 5/32" hole in the stud and have sprayed the stud and manifold interface with the gasket and head down with Blaster 3 times over the course of a day and a half but the EZ-Out isn't spinning the stud out.
The labor rate for replacing the manifold is 1.8 hours but I don't see how that is realistic. It doesn't look very easy, and I'm afraid other studs may brake if I try to remove the manifold. What else I might try to get the stud replaced? And "take it to an exhaust shop and let them fight it" is NOT out of the question.
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Recently the keyless entry buttons (lock, unlock, panic) buttons stopped working. The red light still came on (strong), but car wouldn't unlock. The key still works for starting the car, but having to use the manual key to enter.
What I have tried:
Ensured this is Option Package 1 car, no push button to disable the SKS from under the dash Tried the reprogramming steps here in this post (though I would say they are not 100% clear) Read the owner manual pages 20-40 Gave up and spent $5 on another CR2032 battery (did not work).
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During a recent vacation, while driving at night, the MPH display went black. I completed the drive to the hotel, resolving to change the fuse in the morning. When I started the car in the morning, the display was still black. I checked the fuse I thought should be involved (#22), but it was good. The MPG / MPG screen was still bad. Not wanting to drive an additional 400 miles back home without a speedometer, I called the closest dealership to get an appointment. The 2010 has 33K miles on it .
When we packed up and started the car for the trip to the dealer, everything was working. One week later and all is good. I plan on getting this anomaly recorded with Toyota just in case it happens again after the warrantee runs out.
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I am due to make a 400 mile round trip business trip today. Go out and start the car, and the screen display is black. The MFD. None of the buttons on it work, either - I have the beep ON, no beep. I turned it off, waited about 1 minute and tried again, still nothing. Went for a short drive (took the dogs to the park where they can run), it was off for about 35 minutes. Still nothing for the short drive back home. I mean short, this is less than 2 miles one way.
I can still access the a/c and the radio from the steering wheel. I can see my speed, fuel etc, that is fine. It is just the display monitor. This came out of the blue, I have not noticed any issues at all.
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I went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
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I have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
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I recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
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So I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
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I Have two questions on installing studs. Does the 6 oclock dowel position really matter? To me it doesnt make much sense because the timing isnt changed with just studs so there should be no issue with valve clearance and such. Unless something isnt installed correctly.
Also what is the best way to clean the block? I thought Senior Master Tech on youtube had an interesting way with a piece of angle iron.
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I have a 2008 Prius. The black square key is stuck in the ignition and won't come out. I can hear clicking sound under the hood -- perhaps the battery. But the car won't start; the clock is off and the doors don't lock, except manually.
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I see black particles inside the car whenever i drive, i don't know if this is coming thru vent or from outside, or something gets burnt inside which is throwing this . I don't smell anything burning.
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My wife had a disagreement with the garage door this morning while trying to back my Prius out that ended with the little plastic cap that covers the joint of the rear washer being broken (It wasn't more serious!). I know it's a minor thing, but I take pristine care of my Prius and I'm a self-admitted OCD.
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