Prius (Gen 3) :: Battery Survives 2 Months Without Use
Jun 18, 2010
I know that I've seen some threads about the battery not surviving a long period without using the car Just got back from 2 months away, and everything started up just fine
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I am not going to use my Prius for six months. What can I do to keep the starter battery alive? this battery is almost new. Also would like to hear if the long period of inaction will affect the main battery.
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I recently purchased a 2013 Corolla with about 11K miles. This was a certified vehicle from a Toyota dealer. The battery the car came with died in 2 months. It was replaced with a new battery under warranty. Again, that one only lasted 2 months and was replaced with a new one under warranty.
How can I investigate this issue? Is it the alternator? Is there a drain somewhere in the system? The vehicle is 100% stock.
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I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE 2.4L 4 cyl automatic. The car had been sitting for about 6 months and I had to replace the starter. Finally a day off, replaced starter, charged battery, the heavens opened and the angels sang when it fired right up. Let car run for about 20 minutes sounded great. Noticed that the battery light came on. Took car to give it a much needed bath and when finished, was slammed back down to earth when the car wouldn't start.
Day 2... Remove alternator and have it checked. Autozone says it's good, I replaced the serpentine belt because I noticed some small fraying in a spot. Tensioner was great. Charge up car and it starts. Try to restart it and not enough power.
Now a week later, I am thinking battery or fusible link or bad wire. I pull the battery and have AutoZone check. Battery is bad. I replaced battery and "The Pickle" started right up! Enjoying her gentle purring once again I am dragged back to reality when the alarm bell sounds and the battery light goes off again. I am now thinking fusible link and wire once again.
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My left backup light just went out on my '10 Prius after 4 months.
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I've had my Prius since and for the past 6 months I am getting weekly low tire alerts.
How likely is it that the tires were not mounted well enough from the factory?
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The blower was working perfectly until a few months back it started with a ticking sound. No Performance problems or anything.
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Had to store prius for 7 or 8 months? Does the hybrid battery need to be disconnected?
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The 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
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I'll be traveling this summer and will leave my 1995 Ford Taurus in my home state. Aside from disconnecting the battery, is there anything I can/should do before I leave so that the car will be drive able when I get back? (I did this a few summers ago and did nothing to prepare; when I got back, the car did start, but a few days later it died and I had burned out the alternator. Would like to avoid doing that again!
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My 2000 GTI VR6 has been sitting around for a while (since Oct/Nov 2013). Now the car wont turn on. Dash lights up, and no clicking noise of dead battery (actually just put in a new battery). Makes those noises when turning on, but engine never gets going.
What should I check? Battery terminals seem fine. Coilpack? Corroded terminals somewhere else?
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I have a VE Calais which has not been driven for 2 months now apart from a dead battery the fuel flap wont open (you just push them and it opens when car is unlocked) have opened it slightly and squiterd wd 40 still wont open.
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My 2004 1.8T GTI is having a weird issue. It's had 3 coolant leaks in the past 3 months. Every time I get one leak fixed it goes leak free for a couple weeks, but then a new leak pops up in a new place.
First leak was a cracked coolant bottle. Second was a flange near the bottle on passenger side. The newest leak is on the driver side. Car hasn't ever overheated.
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I have a 2001 honda civic. Its been sitting for a few months, and now it won't start. The battery is fine (radio, lights come on just fine). It tries to turn ( kinda does a "wrr wrr" sound) and stops, and then it makes a clicking sound. What do I do? I was thinking about using starter fluid to get it start.
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Driving a 2002 f150 5.4 liter, 4 wd. 128k miles. Recently started driving truck after sitting in garage for 12 months. Started getting codes 403,316,171 and 302 Changed plug and coil on cyl 2 for 302& 316Also egr valve, dose removed and cleaned throttle body. Drove 20 miles and all 4 codes came back.
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I just took the cover off my MIL's SC430. Been covered and locked for about 3 months. And this is what I found. ALL the leather is completely moldy. How this happened, what to do about it.
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Bought a car that has been sitting for 10 Months. Starts up really easy, idles ruff. Should I drive it to clear it out? or ? 1996 Lincoln Towncar left in great shape just over 100,000 miles.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Venza V6 AWD with 60,000 miles. A few months ago I had the front rotors and pads replaced by Sullivan Tire and Auto in Massachusetts. Since that time, the brakes have started causing a grinding or vibration. It ONLY occurs at very low speeds, especially in stop-and-go traffic on the highway and only after the car has warmed up with perhaps 20-30 minutes of driving with braking. You can feel it in the steering wheel and even in the seats. Sullivan has been AWESOME in trying to solve it, already replacing the rotors and pads once and having taken them apart two other times. They seem stumped and I can't find anything related on the internet. Several techs have taken it for a ride both with and without me and every one of them confirms the same strange grind/vibration/rub and under only the conditions noted above.
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My oil burner has gone through about 3 liters of coolant in 2 months. Can't find a leak. Brought it up to my dealer's attention a few weeks ago. Filled it up and told me to report back at next oil change.
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So back in mid May while driving the inlaws back from the airport in our newly aquired 2004 Mercury Mountaineer 4.6 AWD with 100K on the clock, I started to hear a high pitched whine. Stopped at the rest area and found gear oil coating the underside of the car. It was coming from the differential vent. Long story short, the axle came off where it was supposed to be in the differential and cratered it. Got it repaired through the extended service plan I had gotten with the vehicle. Fast forward to today. About 70 miles from home again at highway speeds I hear the same whine and see smoke, pull over, same oil. Get towed back to the same dealership from the previous time and its sitting in their lot til they can look at it on Monday or Tuesday. Fortunately the dealership does warantee their work and parts so it should be covered, its just frustrating.
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For the last 2 years 1995 ranger 2.3 will run great but every 1-3 months will just stall. Will than try to start it for a couple of minutes and in 1-8 minutes will start back up again as if nothing was wrong and then be fine for another week, month, 2 months etc. It has never happened at first start up in the morning but at times will stall 2 minutes after start (at traffic light of course). At times will turn off to run into store, come outside, no start, try for couple of minutes and then starts up fine. Changed out fuel pump, etc, etc. Biggest problem is no codes and, of course, when mechanic looks at it nothing is wrong.
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