I drive my prius mostly in city/suburbs with limited hwy time. I drive in a way to minimize battery use. I have no EV, top ECO zone ICE accelerations, coasting with no battery use, etc.
I recently noticed that battery fan kicked to moderately loud (a rare event in my driving) after several miles of hwy driving and later near 50 mph acceleration after exiting hwy. Flat terrain.
I just got a used 2015 with only 1000 miles on it. Everything is great except I notice when going up and over the mountain highway I take everyday to work the car revs kind of loud and feels like there's not a lot of power. I don't know if this is normal or not, but it doesn't sound right to me.
View 4 RepliesI took my 2007 to the dealer yesterday to have spark plugs replaced and both coolants drained and filled. They did this in less than 2 hours. After the service, as I started driving away, I heard very loud gurgling sounds indicating that there was air in the system. When I stopped at a light, the gas engine did not shut off like it normally should, and the entire car was shuddering. When I accelerated again, I got a bunch of emergency lights and the gas engine shut off. I pulled over and turned the car off. When I turned it back on, the only remaining warning lights were the red triangle of death and check engine light. (I didn't see which other lights came on, as I was frantically trying to pull over safely). I managed to limp back to the dealer and I'm awaiting their call.
View 20 RepliesAbout a yr ago I bought a 2010 Prius with about 36,000 miles on it. Now I'm just about to crack 50,000. Late into the winter I began hearing this sound and thought it was odd. I figured it had something to do with the fact that it was winter and the engine/battery were working together to warm the car up as well as charge the battery. I took it to Toyota this past week and of course the "Service Experts" claimed this was "normal" as one of the managers owns a prius and claims they all do this. I know this to be false due to having owned one for a year now as well as reading up on a lot of the great info poster in here. Now in the defense of the mechanic that day, my battery was pretty well charged. The sound isnt nearly as harsh when the battery stays at or around half way charged.
Today while doing some cleaning inside my car i left the air on. As a result my battery drained low enough for the battery to begin charging. This brought on that miserable sound that continues to get louder and more noticeable with time.
So I just picked up an 07 camry se.
Is the car is a bit loud? It almost sounds like it has a sporty exhaust on it. From what I can tell it's all OEM. Its not super loud, I have an 06 evo, thats loud lol. This just sounds like its got a gutted cat or something. Just a throaty tone from the exhaust.
I am kinda thinking maybe the flex pipe is maybe leaking a bit. Cause it seems like its coming from under the car near the flex pipe, but its cold here, so I figured I might see an exhaust leak under the car.
I just didn't know if the se were a little louder or what? Its definitely not coming from the engine bay.
Have any other 2013 Tiguan S owners with Auto Trans noticed that the engine runs very loud with the AC on?
Currently I have around 600 miles on the clock and when I turn the AC on, the engine sounds way louder.
On top of that, when I'm cruising at 15 mph with the AC on and I give the car some gas, the transmission stumbles a bit and sometimes I hear a single click noise.
I have a 2003 Pontiac Gran Am GT 3.4 and i just noticed yesterday when i start my car now it sounds like i have one lifter that is fairly loud, it goes away about 10 minutes after its running. It did it for the first time when we were at the inlaws yesterday, after a few hours of sitting i went out to warm the car up and heard it. Then in the evening after sitting for a few hours i went out to warm it up and did it again. is it possible to be dirty and need something ran though the engine like seafoam?
View 3 RepliesToday my engine started making loud sputtering sounds, I checked the oil and it was completely gone based on the dipstick. I was shocked since I had an oil change not so long ago. My current millage is 103,500 i assume now at such a millage that oil consumption is very high. I poured some 5-20 synthetic oil in, but my engine continues to make sputtering sounds however, they are less audible now. Is it possible my engine is damaged?
Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....
I replaced rear pads with akebomo and installed centric premium rotors but in the morning I hear a very loud noise (as loud as as a steam locomotive :-) for the first few times I press on the brake, then the sound goes away. After that, no hissing sound all day until next morning.
I used a brake silencer spray on the back of the pads but to no avail. I had the mechanic lube the pins twice but in vain. Noise went away for 3 days and came back.
I was told to go with OEM pads with shim. I was wondering if this the correct solution and where is the best place to get those OEM pads?
A problem has started with my son's 2008 Honda Civic EX Coupe 2D....
When completely cold, the engine on starting sounds very loud, a bit like an aero engine. On warming up however, the engine noise returns to normal. This problem apparently started quite suddenly, a few months ago. It is difficult to express a sound in words, but if the normal engine makes a Vrooom sound, then the sound when cold is more like an Aaaaaarrrr. I lifted the bonnet, and looking at the engine compartment, the sound seems to eminate from the left hand side of the engine block.
I did notice that when accelerating from a Stop sign just after starting the car, that I could here the engine revving up over the Aaaaarrrrr noise, and it seemed to be normal.
For reference, I am a qualified Engineer, but have little experience in car repairs. My practical knowledge goes as far as changing the battery, spark plugs or oil/air filters.
Since taking delivery of my Touareg in Sept. I have, on three or four occasions experienced a loud noise that sounds like something striking the roof above the drivers side. It happened 2 or 3 times last fall and then not again until yesterday. It does not appear to be speed or weather related and obviously there is no sign of anything hitting the roof. The roof rack is correctly assembled at the rear.
View 1 RepliesI have a 3.6 4motion and recently after i started it up just now too, it made a diesel like weird sound, and the RPM revved up to like 3500 then went back to idling.
View 4 RepliesMy car is making a strange whine noise. It sometimes gets so loud and sounds like sort of the generic sounds for bad cars in movies where it is a high-pitched whine sort of scrape. It has been hot and dry here. I took it to the shop one day when it was rainy and cold. When I got to the shop it was not making the noise. We could not recreate it. They took a look and said I could swap my belts, spark plugs and top off fluids. I figured it might be my belts making the noise, so I got it fixed.
Imagine my frustration when I picked up my car and the noise was back. I had the mechanic come listen and he said he could hear it but it wasn't very loud so he wasn't sure. He said it could be the steering pump or something of that nature. The noise has gotten louder and I do not know what to do. It sounds like a high-pitch eeeee whine and simultaneous scraping. It happens more when I press on the gas, and not when the car is stopped. I can't tell if it is coming from the engine or the tire or the axel. It is toward the front of the car.
About a month ago my 2006 Mazda3 (35,000 mi) started making loud creaking sounds everytime I turned and went over a bump. I took it into two mechanic shops and they both said the struts in the front were leaking fluid and needed to be replaced, in addition to the mounts and the swaybar link. I had all of this done, but when I got my car back it was making a new, very loud, clunking sound that I could also feel on one side when I drove over bumps. The sound was similar to the noise your car makes when the undercarriage hits the ground over a bump. I immediately took it back in, and the mechanic told me that the set of struts he had installed were "bad" and that he would put in new ones. This was done this weekend, but now my car is making the original creaking and groaning sound it did before, except much more audibly now. My car groans and creaks even if I turn the wheel while motionless.
I've heard that cars need time to "settle" into new struts. Does my car just need time to adjust?
After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
View 9 RepliesI traded in my 2015 for a 2016. I had the hesitation in my 2015 when moderately accelerating out of corners. So far in the last 1000 miles on my 2016, no hesitation.
View 2 RepliesIve noticed while driving my 2k7 XLE 3.5L that when I brake moderately it is a very smooth transition until it lets up a little bit which gives me the feeling of losing control slightly. It is really weird to me that feeling of it "letting go" after it already was braking smoothly. When I brake hard it does NOT do that, which I find odd... Is it a normal occurrence for this particular ABS to act like that?
View 5 RepliesI have recently been hearing a clunking noise coming from the front end of my R while braking lightly to moderately at low speed. What this could be?
View 14 Replies1992 Dodge Caravan 4cyl manual (last of the breed)Damn thing still runs, until yesterday.
Merging onto interstate, moderately hard acceleration. Sudden reduction in power, engine running rough, won't maintain 60mph in 5th, steering wheel shakes, engine bucks. Made it about 10 mi. Symptoms got worse, pulled off next exit and drove a bit looking for a mechanic.
Same symptoms, lower speed, lower gear. Had to nurse it up even mild hills in first. Got bad enough that I pulled into a gas station and got a tow home.
Check engine light is not on. No warning lights. Did not start to heat up until the very end.
Eats oil, but I just topped it up that morning. Also drinks coolant, also topped up.Oil is not overfull. Did not drive through water or rain.Timing belt was changed about 10,000 miles ago.
The question:If I haven't already destroyed the engine, is it likely that I will kill it if I drive it to the shop (a few miles)?Or should I have it towed there?(Or should I just have it junked.)
Context:I had a hard time warming up to this car when we bought it new. It was, of course, my wife's car until she got a new one and I inherited it. (Why does that always happen?) I've had it now for over half of my married life. It's six years younger than my younger daughter, sort of a neglected and abused third child. But it just won't die.
I purchased a 2013 Nisan Altima this past October 2012 (2.5 SL CVT). It drove beautifully the first several months until early Spring 2013 when upon deceleration (without use of brakes) the car would lurch/buck moderately to violently. It happens occasionally when I'm slowing as I approach a stop sign or to increase distance between me and a car that has moved into the lane ahead of me; it happens between 40 and 30mph down to 30 and 20mph respectively. When it happens, it feels like the front brakes have locked (but haven't). To address it, I have to accelerate or use the brakes.
It doesn't matter if the car is running hot or cold; sometimes it can happen up to 5 times in a day or not at all for weeks. Of course, I've taken it back to the dealership twice and each time cannot replicate the problem with a tech sitting in the passenger seat. I have been told that there is nothing to be done, that this is a typical reaction when the CVT I was familiar with in my last car, a Murano, is used in a less powerful car. I expressed my concern that it didn't start out that way and that it is quite frightening when it occurs, including that friends who have been in the car with me have declared my car unsafe. I was told it was safe. I don't believe it. It's frightening, frustrating and embarrassing. What can be done to successfully identify and fix the problem? Do I need to go directly to Nissan corporate? Seeking good advice on how to handle this bad situation.
2002, Has about 130k miles
1) Engine rattles at 3500rpm. Only at 3500rpm. 3000 is fine, 4000 is fine.
2) Just had my brakes replaced. They knock when I brake moderately, took it to the mechanic, who replaced them. They knock less now, but still knock. The knocking sound is kind of a pop that happens at 1 second intervals.