Prius (Gen 3) :: Angular Torque Method Is More Accurate Than Standard Torque Wrench
Mar 15, 2012
During my 35 years of experience as a production line and service engineer in the aerospace industry, it was my job to determine the least expensive and easiest foolproof way to perform any production and service operation.
Many readers here have related their experience with the oil filter housing and their difficulty with its removal and reinstallation with the need of a torque wrench to correctly tighten it. Most all technical tightening of screw systems have gone to the "angular torque method," as it is more accurate than the standard torque wrench.
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It's a hot 110 degree day in my 08, we have 5 in the family. Parked for three hours and on return starts up normally. Noticed low torque and slow acceleration on take off. Got on the freeway and slowly got up to 65MPH with obviously only the ICE working.
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- handbrake = parking brake foot thing - the thing that applies rear wheel brakes when stationary;
- manual = stick-shift etc.
- service brake = normal foot brake/big middle pedal
Driving scenario: Short pauses, quick lights etc - no problem, the car is held on the normal brake and the drive knows I have my foot on the brake so shuts all drive down.
Discussion point here - at lights, longer pause in heavy traffic, level/railway crossing etc. The sort of pause where you want to take your feet off the pedals and wait.
With a manual I would put the car in neutral, apply the handbrake and wait. Then when moving again, car into gear, hand brake off balanced with clutch bite and accelerator.
The car was left in drive all the time & knew if the handbrake was applied not to try and engage forward torque/ride clutches etc. Never needed neutral on the Audi multitronic.
With Prius III when I pull up, if I leave the car in drive and apply the handbrake, then take my foot off the service brake the power modes display shows the car putting torque through the drive train - i.e. battery->motor->wheels & you can feel it pulling slightly in creep mode against the handbrake.
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Edit (3/2/13): Problem identified. The timer was incorrectly and inadvertently set, so charging wouldn't start. See this post below.
Three times in the past two weeks, my PiP has refused to take a charge. It happened twice on Chargepoint chargers. The second time, I plugged in and the charger displayed "Vehicle refused charge" or something similar. Tried 10 times with the same result. Then it charged fine at home, and on 240v the next day.
This morning, it won't charge at home on 110. Plug in, the brick clicks, it draws about 200 ma for a couple of seconds, and then zero. Totally repeatable.
No fault codes on Torque. The dealer had it earlier this week and couldn't make it happen or see any fault codes either. The first time it happened the charging cable was off the ground, so I suspected a bent pin, but they all look fine.
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Yesterday leaving a meeting, I started it off gunning it from a light and i went from 1st to 2nd and foreshore i placed it in 3rd and some how it went into 1st and it happened twice last night. i have the forge short shifter from going north to south and from west to east. I been driving stick for years and never had this happen to me, maybe if it happened once it was a drivers error but it happened twice in one night. I have stock motor mounts and even before this my car when gunning on it it won't go into third gear so ill end up missing. And since it hit 8000 rpms do u think I did sum damage to the vehicle, it drives fine and no abnormal noise. anything to check for?
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I have a stage 2 GTI. What can I do to increase low end torque?
From my research, swaping for a k04 is not going to work, in fact its gonna make it worst.
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I have replaced my oil pan gasket with a felpro. I had oil leaking from the top of the oil filter. This oil pan has the filter going through it. I have replace the oil cooler cap and gasket and finally replaced the oil pan gasket. It worked. I do no have any leaks from above the filter. But I am leaking from inside the bell housing. It is still coming from the oil pan and nowhere else. (I have dye in the oils and can see it leaking)
SO I went back to the Haynes to recheck the torque settings. I originally torqued all of the bolts for 89 inch lbs Per the haynes manual)
here is what it says:
oil pan bolts:
step one (to engine and front cover)............89 in-lbs
step two (to rear cover).............................18 foot-lbs
this step two is not too clear.....
which bolts are the bolts to the rear cover??
what I think this means is the 2 long rear bolts that go to the rear cover should be 18 foot-lbs. in the haynes manual they are bolts 13 and 14.
Is this right.....I started to do this but then stopped becuase I felt I was going to strip the bolts.
This kind of makes sense due to there are no other bolts in the middle of the rear of the pan to the block.
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I have just had my transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced. Now the torque converter will not lock up. It turns 2700rpms @ 55 mph! The shop says it maybe my speedometer causing this because it is stuck at 20 mph. was this way before it went into the shop. I'm replacing the stepper motors next week when the parts get here.
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Looking for ccess to a '13 Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) that states the torque specification for the oil pan drain bolt on the 3.5L?
If the '13 FSM is similar to the '05 FSM, the torque value will appear on the diagram that shows the oil pan assembly. I believe the spec is 30 ft-lbs (with a new washer), but I want to confirm.
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The car has 108k I bought it with 101k that being said I had no clue when the last tune up was or if the coils were replaced, now I did replace the transmission, transfer case and clutch since then I've noticed a loss of power and torque especially after 3-4k rpm car just seems to fall on its face, if I had to explain it I would say it feels like it went from being tuned to stock, I have no clue if the car had software or not. also some times I get a sputter or almost a hesitation from the rear, I have done the haldex service 2 weeks ago, It absolutely feels like the car isn't breathing right I don't hear the intake as much or cleanly I'm wondering if the intake manifold bushings are bad and could even cause this? doesn't seem to pull as much just from the start though I used to just drive normal and the car almost felt like it was pulling its self doesn't feel anywhere as quick.
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Torque converter lock V6 vs. V8.
When O took my V8 in for service the dealer gave me a V6 as a loaner. I noticed right away that in 6th gear the torque converter locks up and stays locked until the gas is pushed way down, then, if I push further it shifts down to 5th. On my V8 it does not seem to lock at all and acts like 50's automatic.
It this normal? Can I change the setting at which the torque converter releases the lock? Clearly the 05' V6 has different programming. I have have drive a standard transmission all my life and this is my first automatic and I much rather have that connected feeling between engine and road!
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Feel like the car has more torque before the engine is fully up to temperature? Why I am getting that sensation? Makes me wonder about possible benefits of water/meth injection even on NA.
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I drove my friend's austin healey (forget model year, it has twin carburetors, 4 cylinder motor). The gears had a lot of torgue - all the way up to the top gear. It had a overdrive stretch perhaps telescoping the top gear to two more higher order gears. Question: Is that normal for sports cars to have such high order torque gearing. I thought sports cars gears stretched from a high order lowest gear to very low torque higher gears.
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I'm going to work with my cousin change his oil pan on his 2002 passat 1.8T and I would like to know what torque the screws from the oil pan should be? Is the anything specific that I must know about doing this? Anything to make the job easier, faster and to not make mistakes.
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I had found the torque specs for the oil plug, oil filter housing the oil filter housing drain plug but I am unable to locate now.
30 ft lb drain plug
25 ft lb filter housing
10 ft lb filter housing drain plug
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Looking for the torque sequence on the lower intake for a 2000 ls v6 ?
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The problem i got is that when i step on the car it have a lot of power in the first 4500rpm but after that it looses all it's torque. it's really weird. I got the car scanned and the scanner found a problem with the cat converter, but something tell me that's not it. The check engine light is on.
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What are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
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I have an my 2008 Golf mk5 R32 DSG. I have fitted the GruppeM Intake , done the decat and fitted a Milltek Resonated system. I am based around 1.12 miles above sea level and our fuel here is probably the equivalent of your 91. I had the car dyno'd yesterday with the graph below :
1. What is causing the horrible dip in torque and power just after 4000rpm? Do R32 graphs general look like this? Could it be a result of the variable valve timing?
2. I have a feeling my DSG's mechatronics unit is faulty , could that cause a loss in power or have a result on the dyno run?
3. The power does look low but if I convert it to coastal power it looks to be around 150wkw and 300Nm which seems right?
The biggest concern is the dip in the graph ... Power was measured at all 4 wheels ...
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I bought a "rebuilt" 2wd AOD off craigslist for my bronco 2wd conversion that ended up needing re rebuilt due to wrong parts installed,since it was a bearing issue and worried about metal shavings I did not reuse the 2wd torque convertor and used the one from the 4x4 trans since I knew it worked. Are there any differences in a 2wd vs 4x4 convertors like stall speed to keep the motor running a little higher for off road performance.
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Just doing the bro in law's tie rod ends and we are wondering what torque we should be putting on the castle nuts? They are greasable Moogs...
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