Even though my climate control system is not in auto mode, it still has a mind of its own. When I run my a/c, the airflow intensity level changes, and the system switches to defrost about every 5 minutes or so (even when there is absolutely no need for defrost). I continually have to set the system back to my comfort level. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport and my dashboard backlight keeps changing instensity at random time intervals - sometimes after 20 minutes and sometimes after 10 minutes. What could be causing this?
View 6 RepliesAs stated in the title, my feet stay cold for a long time after the car fully warms up, and I can't feel much if any airflow under the dash. I tried going from auto to directing all flow to the floor, zero change, even with the fan on high.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2002 Ex with the 7.3. Every time I put it into 4x4, the A/C automatically switches to the windshield defrost vents. After a couple minutes it switches back the the A/C vents. I'm assuming that isn't normal.
View 12 RepliesWhen I have my a/c on, every time I step on the throttle it changes where the air comes out of the vents . Under normal power the air blows out the front vents, step on the throttle and it switches to defrost , let back off and it goes back to normal.?????
View 6 RepliesWhen the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
View 7 RepliesMy 2005 F250 just had the cab off in December for head studs and gaskets. Its a Crew Cab short bed FX4 so it has ESOF. When I engage 4x4 the blower will switch from blowing air out of the vents to blowing air out of the windshield defrost. Is a vacuum line plugged in wrong somewhere, or is one cracked? Trying to figure this out, its rather annoying
View 2 Replies2006 f350 DRW King Ranch diesel with 94,000 miles on it. When I shift in to 4x4 the AC switches to defrost and then takes 2 min to return to the vents. I imagine this is a vacuum leak issue. Where to start hunting? I pulled the dash for another install and all lines were connected. I will say the vacuum pump stays on longer than normal when the ignition is first activated.
View 1 RepliesI have begun to notice that when I start my van each morning for the first time that it is reving at a higher RPM then it did back during the winter. During the winter it may have been around 1000rpms at start before lowering down after a few minutes. Now it is starting at about 1500 and then returning down to the lower level after a few minutes of warming up. Could the change in outside temps cause this?
View 3 RepliesHave a 2010 Prius III (trim V), and a 2012 PIP. The 2010 has a fan that will circulate air when the car is parked. This feature is very useful especially if the car has been sitting in the sun on a hot day like today (and cracking the sunroof).
Got into the PIP today and it was like brick fired oven. Thought to myself maybe the fan was turned off, but unable to locate the button.
Do the outside air circulation fan exists for the PIP.
OK Wife has been coming home and the car smells like coolant. The tiny hose from the rad cap to the reservoir isn't pressurized and popping the res cap does not release pressure. Do they are supposed to pressurized?
The coolant level is in the exact middle of high and low just after a 25 minute highway drive. I cant see any puddles or leaks anywhere on the tray; but I have pulled the tray anyway to see if leaks show up on my floor. Temp gauge never wavers at all from what she tells me.
This is a bit perplexing. Maybe a bad rad cap?
Now i want to know how to change the intensity of DRL when turn on the blinkers. Because when you are using the DRL and turn on the blinker the intensity of DRL drops down , and i want to control that intensity.
I already know how to change the intensity in the DRL , but i don't when turn on the blinker.
I have a 1999 Forrester "S", automatic with ~100k miles. This started intermittently but now is consistent. At about 45 mph or higher the rear of the car will shake with increasing intensity. It feels similar to a bad strut that allows the axle to hop. I have checked the balance on all the wheels, bearings feel free, nothing seems to be loose in the suspension, have placed the car on jack stands and run at 60+ with no vibration. My best guess is the carrier bearing or rubber suspension on the drive shaft. It is hard to evaluate in the car.
View 3 RepliesI notice my Prius sometimes turns-off the engine & runs pure EV when cruising at 40-45 miles/hour. Sometimes for a few miles! That seems very inefficient vs. taking power directly from the engine:
- Gasoline--->burn---> transmission--->wheels
- 1 state transition (chemical-to-mechanical)
- Gasoline--->burn--->transmission--->generator--->store in battery--->extract from battery--->motor--->wheels
- 5 state transitions
OK maybe not 20 switches yet but I'm sure by the time I'm done I'll end up with 20 or more switches.
View 19 RepliesI'm battling an odd suspension issue...over the last 5-7,000 miles, I've had a strange vibration issue surface that has varied in intensity depending on speed and road surface. I've had a damaged wheel trued, replaced all four tires and had all four wheels/tires RFV balanced. The vibration has changed but not quite gone away. Instead, it's been joined by an increased vagueness in directional stability (tendency to wander) at highway speed.
Last week, the tech balancing my tires said he felt my right hand front rear control arm bushing was worn. The more I've thought about this, the more I'm wondering if this is what might be the source of this mystery vibration issue. So, I really have two questions?
First, bad front CA rear bushing replaced under warranty? 15,000 miles does NOT seem like an acceptable service life for a suspension bushing? Do these bushings have a history of premature wear and failure, or am I just lucky?
Second, if I do have to replace one or both bushings (left and right pt. no. 5C407183A,) I'd like to ask if the solid bushing (pt. no. 1J0407181) from a Jetta or Beetle will work in a Passat control arm? If I do have to replace the bushing, it might be better to put a more solid piece of rubber in there instead of the flimsier original part.
I have a new 2013 Prius C2 I bought a couple of weeks ago.
I listen to a lot of am talk and it works fine. Problem is when I start my car it automatically switches over to FM.
My car has around 160k miles on it and for the past 30k miles (give or take) I have had a jerking sensation when the car switches from gas to electric. It is a stronger jerk at low speeds and more like a shimmy at 40-50 mph. It has progressively gotten worse with time, I mean it's by all means drivable but I have been trying to figure out what could be wrong before it has to be replaced and I'm on the side of the road.
View 2 RepliesI've a 2004 Prius. Had it for 3 years. 40,000 miles. No problems what-so-ever. 55 to 60mpg without any effort.
During the winter I noticed that when the petrol engine switched off - there was a jolt. (It used to be totally imperceptible.) Nothing drastic - I have to be on smooth tarmac to notice.
My Toyota dealer said this sometimes happens in cold weather. However, the weather has warmed up - and I can still feel the jolt.
Don't know if it's connected, by the central display diagnostic check tells me...
EMV. Code: 01-DC. Sub-code: 1C6-F6-1
I'm experiencing issues with the radio when I change from AM to FM. If on AM mode and I go to audio button or on Steering Switches and push FM, it switches to FM reception (get the radio station on FM) however read out on the screen still says AM and all the presets are in AM mode.
On the reverse from FM to AM same occurs.
Is this a software issue?
Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 Replies