While installing a K&N air filter in my 2014 Prius Three 1.8L I noticed a charcoal pad in the air cleaner box. Might this be something of an impediment to air flow? I'm considering removing it to see if there is any performance boost.
View 12 RepliesI was reading through the forum and I have not seen anything on an upgrade for the 4.2's performance...I want to bring the cars' hp closer to 400 without hurting the fuel economy too bad or maybe even improving it...The 4.2 is a heavily used engine by VW and Audi so I know there HAS to be an engine upgrade somewhere on the net I just do not know where to start or what to do...also is there an aftermarket exhaust upgrade available as well?
View 6 RepliesI'm running a catless dp with the "low boost" Revo stage 2 (For 95-98 octane fuel)..
I've noticed when I put in rubbish fuel, the car runs fine and can hear the turbo spooling and pssting..
When I put in Shell VPower Nitro+ (Standard UK good stuff), the check engine light comes on and performance drops. I tried REVO but they stonewalled me. Thinking of trying the higher boost map..
I was having problems with my 2010 Prius, when I would try to put gas in it the pump would cut off after a small amount of gas. It would take quite a while to fill up the car. I took it to a Toyota Dealer and the problem was a plugged up charcoal canister, which they cleaned out. I live on a gravel road.
My question is, how to clean out the canisters? Can you just use an air hose? I'm sure running around with a plugged up canister can not be good for the car.
I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
View 4 RepliesRemoved the battery to install a boost gauge and came back to a christmas tree cluster. Not just the usual steering/EPC either. I can post the expanded scan but you can see a lot of things are affected, still drives fine however. Airbag fault and parking brake fault appear on MFD as well.
Thursday,07,May,2015,15:43:55:18277
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
[Code] ...
Our car's don't have as great acceleration performance when hot / after having been driven for 30+ minutes?
View 6 RepliesTake delivery of my new F-150 tomorrow. Was wondering if there is any particular way to break these motors in.
View 7 RepliesI have these two codes:
P0A37 - Generator temperature sensor circuit range/performance
P0A2B - Drive motor "A" temperature sensor circuit range/performance
I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
I have a 2011 SCREW (build date late April) where the turbos started cycling on and off during acceleration or under load when pulling a trailer or going into a strong head wind. It started at about 18,000 miles and I brought it in to the dealer. They road tested it and could not duplicate. It continued doing it and I had a dealer tech ride with me at the next oil change. He confirmed the problem...this was around 22,000 miles.
Dealership contacted Ford and although they were aware of it (something to do with opening and closing of waste gates if that makes sense) they did not have a fix. They said to check back after the holidays. Since then it has gotten worse cycling on and off under a lesser load. The dealership checked again two days ago with Ford and still no solution but they thought the eventual fix would be to re-flash the computer.
DIY on removing the bumper on the 3IS-F sport
I just received my fog lights from IJDMtoy, but i have no clue how to remove the bumper!
I'm looking to remove the deck lid on the F to check out the sub (seems like it's working sometimes).
I pull the seat bottoms up, and pulled the 12mm bolts to get the seat back off, I couldn't get the belts out, nor the through the deck lid.
How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
View 1 RepliesWhats the difference? which one is better? Im in the market for a cabin air filter, but I noticed there are ones that are similar to the OEM material, and then there are Charcoal cabin air filters? What is so special about a charcoal air filter?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry that has had ongoing issues with the Charcoal Canister over the past 3 years. The first time we came across this issue the car threw codes that indicated the Charcoal Canister had to be replaced. Our mechanic said it had to be done and there were no after market parts for this canister. We paid the $800 for parts and labour and had it replaced. Then 13 months later the car began throwing codes again. I had the car looked at again I was told the Canister would need to be replaced... They felt it was likely caused from the intake filter housing cracking. Each time our car does this the codes can be cleared for a bit but the car takes forever to fill and slowly over time you can no longer fill the car as there is so much pressure. This time I bought a used part and replaced the canister. This has happened again..
So we have now replaced this filter 3 times in three years. Can I ask how this canister continues to get gummed up? We live on dusty roads in the country but none of my other Toyota's have had any issues with this. How these canisters are getting gummed up? Is there any way for me to change this Canister myself if I buy them used? I saw in a video on this forum where the user shows putting the car up on a hoist and lowering the exhaust to get to the canister. Do you have to have a hoist? I am wondering if I can achieve this with the car on a blocks? My original mechanic said the rear suspension needs to be taken apart to access the canister? Can I ask where the dust is being drawn from to clock this filter to begin with? I have also been told you can try blowing out the lines? How to attempt this?
Looking to just take off the cap to have wrapped in vinyl. Is there a way to get the cap only without having to remove the light fixture? I was also going to take it off early and try the plasti dip with glossifier to see if i can match the gloss black vinyl on the roof to avoid seams on the shark fin.
View 14 RepliesJust wondering if this would hurt anything or if it's a splash guard of sorts. There's been previous posts about the alternators being mounted too low on these trucks and getting water damaged over short periods of time.
View 14 RepliesHow to remove the spacer from the rear-end, spring and axle housing. If so, would it be the best to remove one at time etc. Must they be re-located below the axle or totally removed. I don't have a hoist to work from only floor jacks.
View 14 RepliesMy 2014 Accord i4 CVT has 7000miles and it has acted a little strange ever since I pushed it to 3500rpm at Sport mode and then I maybe abruptly shifted it to Drive mode, at which point it made some whining noise shortly. But don’t get me wrong, acceleration was gentle and I don’t ever beat a car.
Since that incidence, it idles at 1500rpm upon cold start at P and fluctuates between 1000rpm and 1100rpm after it warms up a little bit (still in Park). When on stop (brake) on D, it has slight rough idle that periodically comes and goes, which gets better when the A/C is off but not completely resolves. Acceleration is sluggish and lagging, and it has some “dragging/sluggish” feel on coasting as well. When braking, it takes more effort and brake feels stiffer as if it lacks some break boost. Also, the electric power steering gets heavy/tight (I think this could be more of a sensor/input problem rather than the motor).
All these symptoms come and go together except for the fluctuating idle upon cold start, which is persistent. Gently pushing gas at 1200 rpm for, say 10 seconds, tend to “free” the tight steering wheel, and car starts to act more normally with better coasting and acceleration, and more responsive brake for a while. And problem comes back. Also, turning off the A/C seems to make the car act behave notably better but I am cautious of this point since it is known that Honda’s A/C system really takes away the engine power.
I had the dealer shop check for vacuum leak. The report says “check idle, check idle control, check for vacuum leaks ok, check or any codes, checks ok”, basically saying there is no vacuum leak. But I think it is still possible that they missed something. Dealer shops and some independent shops I visited aren’t so willing to figure out what is going on, and I basically need to ask them “check this and check that”.
How to remove the chrome trim around the fog lights and the chrome bars beside them I have a 2014 SE
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