Prius (Gen 3) :: 2013 - Groaning Sounds Occasionally When Applying Brakes
Dec 8, 2014
I have noticed brake groaning sounds ocassionally when applying the brakes. When this happens the pedal seems spongy takes longer to stop. After the car is turned off in the garage I have heard the same kinds of sound coming from the car. It almost sounds like the car in sequencing through checks after the system has been turned off.
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My drivers seat feels like it moves slightly after applying the brakes and then back on the gas like when you almost come to a full stop. The car is CPO with 22k and new to me so I can't say how long it's been happening. I feel like I remember a similar problem and TSB with the 2 gen IS but I'm not sure. I'm just trying to get some info before taking it to the dealer.
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I brought my prius v back to the dealer for the fourth time because of the groaning noise from the rear brakes. I was told that Toyota is aware of the problem and they are designing a new rear brake. They expect it to be ready for installation after January 1st, 2013. Let's hope it isn't too far after the first of the year.
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When I apply the brakes at speeds of 30 mph and under I hear a ticking noise. (The noise might still be there above 30 mph , but due to road noise I cant hear it)
I believe it is the front drivers side but after taking wheel off and taking it to the dealership. I can not find the problem. The dealership states they can't hear it while on several road test, but I have showed them the video clip and they have no idea what it is.
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Great car, Love it! It's a big improvement from the 2006 Prius.
When applying the brakes and holding the pedal down, I notice that the indicator for slippery/traction yellow icon appears in my dash when completely stopped.
There is no map option on the steering wheel that allows you to switch back to the Nav/Map system on the HD display. Is there a voice command?
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Okay, I never experienced this on my Prius C, but now that's I've upgraded to a 2013 Prius Plug-In, I can duplicate it:
When traveling on the highway (at like 60MPG) and I brake a little hard (but not pedal fully to the floor), I hear and feel a 'click' through the brake pedal as it slows through 25MPH. A car pulled out in my lane, and I had to brake suddenly and felt/heard this 'click' at that speed. Did some testing on an off-ramp with the same situation (50MPH - heavy breaking - feel/hear click at 25MPH).
I think this is the transition from the regen braking to the brake pads, but I'm unsure. Not sure if it's ABS either. I've looked at a ton of Gen3 braking threads here on PC, but I was unable to find my exact issue. The car only has 3000 miles on it,
Loving my upgrade so far (but having weird fueling problems - doesn't seem like I can 'fill' the tank, always lose the first 'blip' too fast), and enjoy the freedom of being able to charge for local driving.
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07 Prius 140k miles. Flushed brakes at 132k miles with techstream directions [URL] ...... Follow the path without actuator or master cylinder removal. Went smoothly, no funny noises or codes after.
Brakes making multiple clicking / pump type of noise within last couple of months under these situations.
1. when nearing a stop
2. crawling along slowly with brakes on
3. backing up which is like #2
Braking force is fine and linear response. Brake fluid reservoir level is good. I'm thinking flushing it again.
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When I start my 2013 Prius (the car just passed the 1000 mileage marker) cold, I notice a tick coming from the ICE that almost sounds like a lifter tick. I do remember reading somewhere (I've read so much Prius literature in the past couple of weeks, I could begin to guess where) that the car, when cold, fires after DTC. I noticed this twice now, once when the car had about 500 miles on it, and again this morning, though I'm sure this is occurring each time I start it cold. Is this noise typical or is this something I should bring to the dealership's attention?
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I have a 2003 Camry LE 4cly. Approx 150k miles. Car has been a good Camry. About 6 months ago it started to shudder when applying brakes. At first I thought rotors, but it seemed speed dependent. When over 40 it happens more often and more strongly. After the car gets below 10 to 20 the shudder ceases. Front pads are in reasonable shape. Rotating tires does not affect the shudder. Has never effected handling of vehicle. Brakes work without fail, just shudder in front end and steering wheel. I tried flushing the system, had not done that previously. Fluid was yellow, but not black. After the flush, the system seemed to shudder less, but still have the intermittent shudder. There are no error code for ABS, and the light is not on and does not come on.
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So having done a single track day, I feel like my rotors must have warped, as there is now a slight vibration when applying the brakes. This is very surprising as I don't do anything out of the ordinary, and tried to use brakes intelligently, including a proper cool down lap and so on. Is this normal? What are my options for making life better? Is there some set of rotors I should get that wouldn't be prone to warping like this? Is it a question of pads?
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1998 base model, 3.1, about 232,000 miles on it.
purchased at about 45,000 miles and always had a slight "hissing " noise when I apply the brake.
Yesterday the car was parked on a very slight incline. Emergency brake was applied. a/c was on . I returned about 5 minutes later and heard a "hissing" type of sound. It seemed to be coming from under the dash on drivers side.
As I put my foot on the brake and shifted into reverse the noise stopped. Today at various times I have the same noise.
I've owned at least 40 cars in the last 50 years and this car has the very worse brakes of all . I've tried all types of pads, etc. The rear cylinders rebuilt about 150,000 miles ago. Master cylinder is original.
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I had been hearing bang noise from my front suspension at certain times like when reversing car and applying brakes. It was happening since I bought my car and every time I have complained about it to local VW service guys, I was told by them that they cannot replicate the noise so there is nothing wrong. I even told them to have a look at front suspension bushings but again they said everything is fine.
Last week I went for 45.000KM Service and I complained about the same issue again and luckily this time service advisor heard the noise himself. Next day, they called me to inform that my front lower arm bushings needs to be replaced, front brake pads and discs, and front wheel bearings as well. In my response I told them that bushings were bad for long time and no one figured it out earlier and due to this my front brake discs had abnormal wear along with the wheel bearings.
I am still trying to relate that it is technically possible for brake discs at least to wear off earlier if the suspension bushings are bad as when you apply brakes, the brake discs are stressed heavily as the bushing are not absorbing any stress.
I would like to have thoughts on this matter. Just let me know if my understanding is correct or it does not makes any sense and technically would not be proved.
Just to let you know that it is 3.2 4motion model. My driving is average within 120 KM speed and never hit any potholes etc. Plus my brake pads indicator never went on.
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I haven't noticed it before but applying the brakes after driving thru snow I get an awful crunch sound. I have stopped the car a few times to look and it appears the wheel wells are clogged with slush but I don't know if that's whats causing it. After the crunching sound if I'm driving on a clear road there is no noise if I brake. Its much worse than say the crunch you get if the brakes are wet. Whats up with this?
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2002 Santa Fe has Shimmy when applying brakes. Had tire balanced and rotated-no change. New brakes with life time pads one year ago. Rotors were turned. Should I replace the rotors and pads or just rotors? Am I on the right track for repairs?
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I have a 98 chevy tahoe and the truck seems to make a strange noise sometimes when applying the brakes. I can feel (sorta) the noise in the brake pedal. Is this something that needs a scan to find out where it's coming from?
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Just got the Tiguan SE- love it! We have had it for about 3 weeks. I noticed sometimes while applying the brakes, the RPM's will go up as I am slowing down. I know the car has to move between gears when slowing down or speeding up, but it almost as if it gets "stuck" in a gear when the car is slowing down. Any thoughts, input? We don't drive fast, we apply the brakes and gas slowly to ease the car in. This just seems odd as my past car (2005 Maza 3) did not do this. I am new the VW family so maybe I am just not used this.
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2014 Passat... I've got a little over 2,000 miles on mine now and I really do like the car. However, one thing that is really bothersome to me is----the brakes.
I'm not sure if it is specific to my car or to the passat in general. Here's the issue:
When applying the brakes, the pedal feels almost loose, as though the is no pressure on it, but once you push the pedal down far enough the brakes come on heavy, hard and fast. It's like turning on a light switch.
I am wondering if this is an adjustment that I can have done at the dealer to put more feel into the brakes or if this is just something that we all have to live with, of if maybe there could be something wrong with the brakes on my car.
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I put on etc red stuff and RB front rotors a few hundred miles ago. When I brake at highway speeds the brakes make aggroaning noise. The wheel and brake pedal do nother vibrate but the cabin does a little. What can this be?
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I recently bought a beater '89 F-150 (I-6, MT) with the following problems:
1) Both rear brakes seem to stick on occasion--almost like there was a "check valve" on the rear brake line. When that happens, there is a "BRAKE" and "Rear ABS" light (although the light does occasionally come on without brakes sticking noticeably).
What I noticed in Haynes is that the "RABS I" system functions in the following way: a) Upon noticing rear axle spinning slower than front axle, it actuates a valve, isolating the rear brakes b) If the problem persists, it then dumps the pressure back into the main system.
So, I wonder: Is this an ABS system acting up? If I were to (temporarily) de-power the ABS setup, would it default to "no ABS," or would I need to remove the hydraulic valves from the brake lines? (Don't really want to if I don't have to.)
2) You can select either fuel tank, get that tank's level to indicate on the fuel gauge...yet it only "draws" from the front tank.
Again, Haynes says there is a low pressure pump in each tank, feeding a high-pressure pump in essentially a small "header" tank. The "dual-function reservior" has a wholly mechanical selector, and notes that "Tank switching versus gauge conflicts can occur under certain failure mode conditions."
So: I can understand that the mechanical selector can, in effect, "stick" on one tank. But what I don't understand is how it can still draw from the front tank, with the "rear" tank selected (and presumably, that tank's low-pressure pump trying to feed the header tank.)
Is it possible that the low pressure pump--while beneficial to prevent gravitation at the main pump--isn't strictly necessary to fuel the engine? Or do I have a problem with a low pressure pump that's "always on," regardless of the selected tank?
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02-F150-4.2L-102k. Truck was rolling down the road at approx. 35 to 40 mph. A speed bump/table appeared out of nowhere and was hit before beeing seen. Immediately since this event, the truck pulls to the left while applying the brakes. It pulls very hard and is fine while rolling down the road. Is there some damaged steering component or did one of the calipers go out from the jolt?
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I am having a issue with my 07 accent. Had front rotors and pads replaced because they needed to be. Clicking continued. Had drums and shoes replaced last month. Clicking went away for a few weeks. Recently started back up just the other day. The clicking is only when applying the brake and it sounds like it is coming from the right rear drum. It doesn't interfere with stopping, but it s so annoying and brakes shouldn't make that kind of noise anyway.
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