2011 Toyota Prius Two, not II,smart key device (FOB) is not funational (can not open doors, etc) after replacing battery, and now how to fix, re-sync, etc?
View 17 RepliesA purchased a new 12 volt battery at the dealer. I was getting weird warning lights, so I had them run diagnostics. They said all the codes were voltage and I needed a new battery. Shortly after this I noticed the Smart Key no longer opened and closed the doors.
The car starts ok.
My question is this, could the changing of the battery have caused this? I tried searching for the answer BUT all answers refereed to adding a new smart key purchased on Ebay.
I have a 2007 Prius 2, the key will not open the doors, so I went to the store replaced the remote battery but it is still not working. The light on the remote lights up as usual. I can get in using the small metal key, the car starts and everything seem to be working fine with the smart key plugged in. The 12v battery seems to be fine as all the lights work when the car is off. What this might be?
View 5 RepliesI am not sure if I need a new fob.
My smart key quit working. I have replaced the battery, and checked the button under the steering wheel. The little red light on the fob does not blink or light up when I push it. I think I recall this light coming on when a button is pushed.
In comparing the battery drains on a Camry hybrid versus a Prius Gen II hybrid I discovered both have three stages of battery drains after a door open incident. On a Gen II Right after the door is open the drain was 1.37 amps.
View 11 RepliesWe've had our '11 Prius II now for a couple weeks, and I have run into a problem I can't seem to figure out. When I lock the car, either using the button on the FOB or the smart key, then come back and try to unlock it using the smart key, it will lock the vehicle again. I have to wait a few seconds and try the smart key again and then it will unlock. I tried the search, but haven't found any thing describing this. Am I doing something wrong?
View 16 RepliesI wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
View 9 RepliesBought the 2011 F150 Lariat used, no window sticker shows online, got a build printout from the Ford parts man. According to the build, it says "with remote srart".
Got one key and separate fob with the truck....just a black key, not the remote key. Had a second black key made at dealers expense and kept one remote from the trade in. All works well but.....Would like to have the remote start functional.
Dealer says buy the key, $140, plus cut and program. Lock shop says $190 for it all.
My question is if I buy the key and have it cut, can I program it properly in the truck....including remote start.....since I have two regular coded keys?
Codes indicate bad battery block 10. One of the cells in block 10 had lower voltage than any other cell in the battery. Ordered new cell and replaced it. The 12V battery was never disconnected, but the battery ECU was disconnected to allow it to be moved out of the way for bolt access.
After reassembling the battery with the replaced cell, the no-load voltage of the battery is 215V. The car powers up with the alarm indicators still on (as expected) but putting the car in drive and pressing the accelerator has no effect. I double checked my connections. The HV relays are not being energized. Do the codes need to be reset before the car will move?
I pulled the traction battery...remanned it with great success computer very happy with results... drove it for a week. Took it to Walmart to have oil changed... Got in car , started fine...new oil made motor even smoother....then in 200 yards at traffic light , motor died with unusual sound... pulled over and restarted...but would die. Lights all over dash on.
made it back to oil bay...engine would not restart.
pushed inside and would start and then die... then was rattling when dying
checked aux battery with testers , both indicated dead cell 10.25 volts
tried to substitute a new battery via heavy jumpers... got it to start then die..,..then no try at all
I have read forums ,,,that indicate after 3 tries on a dead aux battery , computer will immobilize it
Have tried replacing with a new lawn tractor battery .but seems the car is immobized . Read codes with Mini VCI, and was able to clear all codes but the immobilizer code.
My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
View 5 RepliesWe just replaced the Traction battery in my 2004 prius. The car has 242,000 miles on it and was running fine when we pulled it in. The battery was purchased used from a 2005 prius with just over 80k on the clock. The replacement battery was removed from the wrecked prius less than a month ago.
The problem is that after installing the new traction battery, every thing looks great except the Ready light will not come on. There are no warning lights except the little red light that indicates there is no key in the car. The key will remotely lock and unlock the car so I'm sure the battery is not dead and the no-key light stays on even if I insert the key into the key slot on the dash. The shifter will only move from Park to Neutral.
What am I doing wrong? Is there some special procedure to go through to make the car recognize the key after replacing the battery?
I have two Prius's, a 2008 and a 2005. My 2005 with 129k miles on it is the one in question. Recently I got a check engine light with the code P0A80 and P3016. I purchased a pair of tested to be good cells from Ebay which finally arrived in the mail yesterday. Today I finally got around to installing it and everything was pretty self explanatory... One of 28 cells tested to have 6.24v in block six and all the others had between 7.98-8.00v all around. I went ahead and replaced the bad cell with the new one and put everything back together and now the car will not start.
Cliff notes: Replaced bad cell in main battery back due to CEL P0A80 and P3016.
Car will not start, only turns on...
Getting error message on the radio screen about the Park position is not correct and to park the car on a flat level ground with parking brakes and try again.
Have charged the 12v battery to make sure it has enough juice in it.
I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
View 5 RepliesI haven’t been on these boards very often since getting my used 2008 Prius because until now it has been very kind to me in terms of not needing mechanical repairs. Unfortunately that good streak seems to have come to an end. Driving home Monday evening (after ~30min freeway driving), my master system warning light came on, accompanied by the hybrid system warning light. I didn’t know what the latter was – had to look it up – but I immediately pulled to the shoulder. The car was driving normally, however. Since shops and dealers were closed for the evening, after much debate I ended up having the car towed to a family friend’s body shop; they were still there and had a scanner to check the error codes for me. My car was on the side of the freeway for well over an hour with hazard lights on and the dome light on and off occasionally as we got in and out of the car. By the time the tow truck arrived, I discovered that the 12V battery seemed dead; car wouldn’t boot up all the way, wouldn’t shift to neutral and didn’t want to power down – I had to try turning it off upwards of 10 times. I was surprised, given just the hazard light and limited dome light usage. We jumped it, got it in neutral and on the truck.
At the body shop, they said there were no error codes related to the hybrid battery; something about transmission that wasn’t clarified, and errors for low voltage on the 12V battery. With everything off, it measured 10-something V; something higher when turned on, but they believed the problem was a dead 12V battery. I was surprised that it would suddenly give out in the middle of driving, but we went ahead and replaced it the next day. I picked up the car Tues evening, and had no problems driving it home, to work the next morning. Unfortunately, during my drive home – strangely at almost exactly the same location as the first time – the same hybrid system warning light came back on. I’d driving about 70 miles with it off at this point before the reappearance. This time I didn’t pull over to the side (had enough of that before) but rather drove a few more miles to a parking lot where the car has now stayed overnight. I note that the car seemed to drive perfectly normally during that time; no loss of power.
How do I turn off the maintenance required light on my 2011 XLE with a smart key? It does not use a regular key.
View 2 RepliesWe just got our 2012 Camry XLE about 1 month ago. Today, the smart key push start didn't work; the brake pedal seemed like it was seized, but the green (key) light did manage to come on, indicating it knew the key was there. When I pressed the start, all of the dash lights were flickering, but the car wouldn't start. Was towed to the dealer, who ran a diagnostic that indicated the battery had failed (the options for the diagnostic are pass, charge, and fail). They installed a new battery and it seems fine.
One of the doors wasn't completely closed overnight - would this have caused the battery to be done? I could see if it caused the battery to drain, requiring a boost / charge.
My driver side door is not locking with the smart key or by hitting the button on the handle I can't seem to figure it out...
View 5 RepliesI had a strange experience this week. Monday afternoon I discovered that my turn signals and 4-way flashers weren't working. I booked a repair appt at my Toyota dealer for Friday.
Wednesday evening I had to make a very sharp turn (270 degrees, roughly) and then discovered that my signals were working again. So I canceled my repair appt; the dealer speculates that there's a short circuit somewhere, which certainly sounds reasonable.
I have a 2010 prius and my driver main controls don't work. My driver window has no auto function but still rolls up and down but my door lock controls and all other window controls are completely non functional. I don't know what to do!!!
View 19 RepliesDoes the key fob have a battery inside? I noticed that within the last week, my smart key fob isn't working correctly, hit & miss. It's almost like the battery is dying. Does it in fact need a new battery?
View 4 Replies