I lost my key fob for my 2011 Prius (no spare). I called a few locksmiths and no luck. Towed the car into the dealership (waited 5hrs) they told me I needed a new ECU and my car was not responding to their programs. They said my car has gone into safety mode where no one can get through to the system.
View 19 RepliesNo warning ...would not start. 24,000 miles on a 2011 PRIUS. Tow truck jump started it and I drove 1/2 mile and emission light, then red lights came on and I lost power? Towed to the dealer. This is my 1st hybrid and I have no clue what is wrong. The tow truck driver mentioned the hydrocell?
View 10 RepliesI have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
I just bought 2011 Prius III on black Friday and still not familiar with auto climate. Everytime I press it on, the air flow will set to blow in foot mode so I press mode button to change it back blowing the air from the front. By doing that the auto climate control light is turn off. Can I use auto climate with air flow from the front vent instead of blow down to the foot?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 non-nav non-JBL Prius, which I got used.
I first noticed this thing after installing an aftermarket head unit, and I could see that various connections behind the head unit plugged into it (including those going to the speaker), but I just left it be. I used a Metra wiring harness to hook up the head unit to the factory wiring. Since then, I installed aftermarket component speakers up front, an Axxess interface to get the steering wheel controls back, and recently an amplifier. I didn't, at that point in time, want to run new wire to all of the speakers, so I ran speaker wire from
Was driving the other day and one of the couplers came loos and I lost boost and went into limp mode. I pulled over, got it reattached, and after that it would only hit 10 lbs. i have a KO4-001 with the GIAC file and it usually hits 20+ and holds 20 lbs. I have a regular code reader and I had a code for the EBC, cleared it, rechecked the hoses, and verified with the flash loader that I was on the correct file, but it is still only hitting 10 lbs. What else I should check.
View 1 RepliesI shimmed my prius this weekend to remove about 0.44 degrees of positive out of 0.60 theoretically bringing total toe down to .16.
The shims add about 3.8 mm between the hub and the suspension. The bolts are M10s I believe with 12 mm heads. There are 4 bolts per hub. I often take off ramps at a pretty good clip rather than braking when going from one freeway to another. The 4 bolts already seem like they wouldn't be enough to hold the hubs on.
When adding the shims, it moves the hub further away resulting in a little more torque at the mating surface on the opposite side of steering. Also, the bolts just barely make it to the last thread.
I don't like the idea of Safety Connect, and already have AAA membership. How can I disable Safety Connect? I'm only a few months into a trial membership, do I call toyota to cancel? Or can I just disconnect some fuse?
View 9 RepliesI thought I would start a new thread on this issue. I recently had my car lose power and all warning lights on, I was able to coast to the shoulder and once safe I turned the car off, hoping that cycling the power would fix this odd problem. No such luck, the car was completely dead and unresponsive except for the door locks and the hazard lights.
So I hit the "SOS" safety connect button to get someone to come tow me. NO luck -- oops, I guess the car is *really* dead. I had my cell phone and the rest of the story is in another post.
Now here is my question: Is Safety Connect supposed to work when the car is off? It seems way less useful in case of an accident or malfunction if I can only call if I can turn the car on.
I have noticed that when driving in EV mode when the car switches over to HV mode the Eco icon always lights up! Of course you can select Eco, or Power mode manually, but when it does this automatically, after the EV battery charge is used up, it keeps showing the Eco icon being lite not HV.
View 1 RepliesMy AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
I have a concern about my 2010 Prius V(five). I've noticed some issues lately that may all tie in to one big problem.
1. My ev mode will not work at all. My battery will be fully charged and not in "B" mode. Turning car off and on will not work.
2. Engine will not turn off when coming to stops. Mind you when the battery is above 3 lines.
3. Throttle response feels like it's in PWR mode(super sensitive) but the engine is leggy. If I floor it for a sec the RPMS are super slow to come down.
4. The Eco line is quick to go in PWR portion and I'm not pushing it any harder than I was before all of this started. It seems like when I push the gas it skips the electric and automatically pulls from the engine.
I have a 2011 Camry LE. I took it to have the oil changed today. The odometer was around 46,000 miles and that's what the service guy put in the computer. After the service was completed, the guy leaned in the car and had me turn the keys 2 clicks while he pressed the odometer button to reset the oil change light. It took him a few tries before he said "ok, got it." Afterwards, I noticed the odometer was reading 40,000. I showed it to him, and he had no explanation for what happened. Neither did anyone else that worked there. I called my local Toyota and they had never heard of that happening.
View 8 RepliesDriving home the other day I crossed some railroad tracks. They weren't too bad, but bumpy. I wasn't going too fast over them, had slowed a bit with traffic. As I cleared the tracks and hit the gas, nothing happened. The car hadn't stalled and I didn't hear any noises, but for about a second as I pressed the gas, it didn't go in gear.
I think the engine revved, like it was in neutral. I looked down and the traction control light was blinking, but no clicking noises were heard. After a second it started acting normal again, and I have gone over those tracks again the next day to try to replicate and it didn't happen again. Is this a known issue, traction control kicks in when a bump is hit...but no clicking noise like i usually get on ice/snow? Or should I have it looked at?
I drove my 2012 Sonata GLS to work, when I left work the car lit up for a split second and then died. I thought the battery was the problem, swapped it out with a new one, nothing. Main fuse is good and all the fuses in the engine compartment are fine. Oddly the interior fuse box is not receiving power at all. Multi-meter shows life in the battery and engine fuses. There are no working lights of any kind, nothing happens when I turn the key, Key FOB not working, the whole nine yards.
The car has 63,000 miles on it, I purchased it 4 months ago from a dealership, declining bumper to bumper warranty. My sales rep and the warranty manager reassured me the 5 year, 100k powertrain would be transferred to me, and it wasn't. I'm currently fighting with the dealership over them covering it, but that's a whole other story.
I have a 2011 f150 eco, i was having trouble with the turbos building boost and dumping to early, kept surging. I took it to my dealer so they ordered the deflector plate and intercooler, i took it in on weds and just picked it up today after they installed those parts and reprogrammed the computer with the latest calibration, this truck runs like a dog now, seems like it lost all the power it used to have? I called my dealer and am taking it back Monday for them to look at it again!
View 14 RepliesMy tailgate emblem has lost the blue color. Is this a common problem? Is it easy to replace the emblem?
View 12 RepliesUnder light acceleration without any load. The motor backfired through the intake. Lost all boost. Other than the backfire noise the motor seems to be fine except for lack of power due to no boost. The motor has been serviced by Ford Dealer since new. All services have been done at 5K mile intervals. The last service was done at 60K miles. All filters had been changed at that time (oil, air and fuel).
I do have experience with turbo/ supercharged motors. My experience would tell me that the problem was with a lean condition at the time of the backfire. Plenty of fuel in the tank and no low fuel pressure warning. I have seen low fuel pressure warning in the past but it happened during the winter when temps were negative 40 degrees. The truck is still under extended warranty so I really don't have concerns regarding repair costs.
Had my oil changed on my 2011 F350, and the tech said that I lost one gallon of antifreeze coolant. Where could the coolant have gone? We could not find a radiator or hose leak. I am afraid that the coolant somehow got into the engine oil, and may have damaged the engine. I have 46000 miles on the truck.
View 14 RepliesThis morning I turned on the heat in my 2014 Sonata 2.0T and there was a clicking sound coming from behind the dash. Heat is now only blowing out for the window defrost mode and when I will not blow out of the other vents.
View 3 RepliesI am taking my 2012 Sonata Limited in this afternoon because while I was demonstrating the Valet feature of the trunk over the weekend, after I closed the trunk the manual key will not open it. I can insert the key into the lock, but when I try moving it right or left it does not budge.
I did not want to force it and chance breaking off the key in the lock, so I decided to take it in. Hopefully it will be covered by warranty.
I tried both manual keys and neither worked. I also tried the keys in the driver's door and glove-box and they both work fine.
I wonder how they will get into the trunk since the seat release is also in the trunk.