Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 Would Not Start - MFD Lights Up
Oct 21, 2010
My 4 month old Prius 2010 is not starting since this morning. My wife drives the Prius and when she tried to start it this morning, it would not start. The MFD lights up and all the symbols stay lighted rather than turning off. My wife tried it 5-6 times, but to no avail. She tried to start the car this afternoon and the same problem. I only had this car for 4 months and i cannot understand what is happening. To be clear, my wife drives this car regularly to take my son to school and various other activities. This is the first time that we have this issue and i was just wondering if the 12v battery is the issue.
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My father's prius recently did a very strange thing. When he tried to start the car, some lights came on and several alarms went off, but the car would not start. Then when he tried to turn it off, it would not turn off....the car had to be towed to the dealer, alarms going strong.
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With A DeWalt 12V Battery....
I left the hatch up for a few days because I didn't drive it due to hot weather. The battery died on me of course. The dead battery measured 6.59v No amount of "battery recovery" time is going to recover it to start up the Prius. I charged up an old DeWalt 12V NiCad battery. I jump started the Prius with it. When I power down the Prius, the interior lights went back to really dim.
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Gen III, 2010 Prius III ... There is a flashing yellow triangle, dashboard lights up, but won't start. The dome lights won't turn off, in any position.
Drove it last night and drive it regularly, daily. I came out to the driver side door being not fully closed. What's going on?
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I have a 2013 Toyota Prius with 9K mile on it. It happened to me more that 6 or 7 times in the last 2 month, that when I try to start the car (it does not matter how long it has been off) some of the lights on the right corner goes on and the start bottom does not do any thing. I can't start the car. I called dealer they said it can be the remote control battery. I'm using the other remote and still have the same problem. Last time I had to jumper the car and then took it to dealer, they did not find anything wrong with the battery. I'm sure something is wrong with the small battery. What the problem is?
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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Car: Seat Leon 2010, manual trans. On Saturday, upon starting the car after it had been driven 1 hour before, no internal electricity would work (dash board/internal lights, electronic windows, turn signal (internal and external), touch screen, electrical side view mirrors). The car itself ran and got home. I assumed it was something with a fuse, but all those under the hood aren't blown and I can' seem to find (/it doesn't seem to exist as there is just empty space where the manual says it should be) the internal fuses.
Today (monday) I looked again and made sure none of the fuses under the hood are blown and made sure (by taking out and putting right back in) all the fuses in the hood to make sure they are in all the way. Although I didn't test turning the car on since saturday, now, it wont start at all. In internal overhead lights go on when the door is open and the security code needed to start up the car work, but there is zero reaction when trying to turn the key.
What is wrong with the car? a fuse? battery? wiring? did I maybe put a fuse in the wrong spot? What should I do? try to jump start it or just get it towed to the shop (as anyways its due for a checkup....
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I bought my car and have had nothing but issues. I think I have driven the loaner rx almost as much as I have had my GX 460. Vibration issues, suspension issues, loose bolt issues, etc... Now for the double secret bonus I am on vacation and so is my GX. Went out tonight to pick up dinner after driving 3 1/2 hours and nothing but grinding clicks. Called roadside and they came. Not the battery. This is the second time it has happened. No lights are indicated.
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I just installed an aftermarket stereo in my 2001 Alero. I did not use a wiring harness, but I just cut the old harness out. (probably a bad idea!) I did NOT disconnect the battery when I installed it.
1. I did not know where to put the radio ignition wire for the stereo (the ACC wire) (it was orange in my case). It looks like this car does not have one? I ended up just plugging the radio's ignition wire into the constant hot so the radio is always on.
2. After hooking everything up, the car does not start, it turns over for about 2 seconds, then it quits. Also, the instrument panel lights are not coming on. Everything else seems to work OK, interior lights, etc. I checked the fuses IPC/HVAC BATT and IPC/BFC ACC and they are not blown. My guess is that I did not wire the ACC part correctly...
What did I do wrong? I hope it isn't some complicated anti-theft mechanism.
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I have a 2014 Elantra, today it would not start, only loud clicking noise and lights flash. I moved gear shift to neutral same results, moved back into park same results. Do not think its a battery issue.
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Our 2010 Santa Fe SE V6 just developed a problem where when we turned the key, the car wouldn't start, and there was a loud clicking sound during start attempt. Battery tested 100% OK.
This often points to a starter problem, but a telling symptom was than the headlights would dim, almost going out, along with the dash lights and most any other lamp. If it was just the starter, unless dead short, this associated dimming would not happen. I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched battery voltage during cranking attempt, and the voltage showed minimal drop, so once again the battery was not the problem.
Traced the problem to the ground strap from the battery which terminates to the driver side front wheel well. Two bolts hold the strap to the wheel well, and they are oxide coated and the contact point on the wheel well is painted. This means all the current returning to the battery is essentially passing through the bolt threads and cap where the oxide has been scratched enough to be conductive.
I sanded underside of the bolt heads to remove oxide, sanded the ground strap itself which seemed to have some sort of clear coating, and sanded the paint away from the wheel well where the strap makes contact. I didn't have star washers, but if I did they would have been a good addition.
Car now starts with no problem.
I am concerned with the possibility of corrosion under the strap where I sanded away the paint, but will monitor this. I think the contact between the strap and fender wall is tight enough with the two screws to seal out moisture and oxygen.
I am also going to locate and check any other chassis to engine ground straps so I don't have any new problems in the future.
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Is this a bug? I hit the start button, everything comes on, put on my seatbelt, etc... then I shift into reverse (out of park) and it says I must start in park. But it's already started. I then have to hit the start button to turn everything off, then hit it again to turn anything on. How to avoid this?
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I have a really long downhill at the end of my commute. If I am putting on slight brake pressure to regen, are my brake lights on? Or do they only come on when you put enough pressure on the pedal to start slowing the car?
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE w/ about 90k miles. I took it to work. parked. Went back to car. Engine cranks. Won't start. Lights are bright. Radio on. Jumped it and it started up no problem. Took it and got a brand new battery. turned car on and it worked with no problems. took it home. next day went to work. started w/ no problem. After work, started with no problem.
NEXT DAY... Engine cranks again....won't start. Tried to jump it again but NOTHING.
(also, just want to mention there is no history or indication that this was gonna happen. no jumpy starts...no shaking...nothing.)
Someone came out and checked: alternator, battery, starter, everything checks out good and working.
Spark plugs: GOOD but no spark...thought it might be crank sensor. Tried to change that out, still won't start.
In the midst of all this my key was acting up. finally it broke out of the lock part....the actual key separated (not broke) from the alarm part. i went to go make a duplicate w/ the key part and tried the duplicate key and it still won't start. do these things have a chip in them that activates the crank sensor? I've been w/o my car for about a week and i feel as though it's right in front of me.
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My 2010 Ford Flex is not starting intermittently 4 times since Aug. 31, 2015 always in the morning, the lights and seat move but it will not crank. When we take it to the dealer after towing, it works fine this happened 8/31, 9/3, 9/10 and 9/16 but after 5 mins it started on 9/16 called and took it back to dealer to see if the problem repeats they replaced the battery on Aug. 31 and put in a starter relay on Sept. 10th even though they did not think that was the issue and it isn't. The car is currently at the dealer to see if this happens in their care I have a video from 9/10 showing what is going on when we try to start it with both keys this happens in the morning, the dealership told me to start it in neutral and that did not work as well. I am afraid to drive it far not knowing if it will start or not but this only has happened in the morning before work.
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I just got my 2010 prius with OEM fog lights. I was wondering if there's a mod that I can just turn on my fogs without having to also turn on the headlights.
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Strange thing happened yesterday. After changing my oil as I left my friends house I had a couple weird indicator lights. ABS warning, the yellow indicator next to that ((!)) and the traction control light were all lit and solid. Brakes felt a little unusual. Less sensitive than normal but working fine....
I pulled out of his driveway, then went about 20 feet and pulled over. Shut the car completely off, turned it back on and all was normal.
The exclamation indicator was not lit nor Check engine and no messages were displayed. No beeping . It's almost like I had the car in some kind of brake test mode or something.
Here's what I did before I left his house:
While on jack stands I changed my oil. While it was still up on jacks I turned on the car to run the engine for a moment. (I put it in neutral to let it run for about 1 minute.) No leaks .. buttoned up the car, put it back on the ground. Filled oil to the top line and ran the engine again for maybe 30 seconds. Everything normal. Then I had it in "ON" mode while I checked my tire air pressure. (I had a warning indicator about that.) Once I had tires correct I put the car in ready mode. All indicators off and normal. Shut off car then had it in accessory for a little while. (Listening to radio) It was after this I left his house..... So I definitely cycled the car on and off several times.
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I have a 2010 blizzard pearl prius 4 and i just got it pre owned with only 39k miles about 2 months ago. I didn't notice this until just now but the first position on the headlight switch does not do anything...its supposed to turn on the little parking light up front and the parking light in the rear as well as the license plate light and the instrument panel lights. Mine does not do any of that until i switch the headlight on all the way. This tells me that my lights are not burned out but that there is a problem with the switch/stalk.
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I don't mean solid black tail lights. I just want to paint the chrome out of it like we do with the headlights. I still want them to do what their supposed to do. I just did my headlights with the oven bake, tear apart, mask, paint, oven bake method. I'd like to make them match.
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I had a question regarding the little lights that are above (I am assuming these are either daytime driving lights or parking lights) the fog lights. Is there anyway to keep these on all the time, or to turn them on/off with a switch? Reason I am asking is the Prius I am looking to buy does not come with fog lights and I notice the light above where the foglight would be is orange. Comparing that to Sylvania's lamp replacement guide for a 2011 prius, I assume that is what they refer to as the "parking light" (The turn signals have a different bulb). I was hoping I could replace that bulb with a clear bulb (instead of orange) and then keep it on all the time with my headlights on/off just to provide a little more light (even if it is negligible).
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Just got the local shop to install fog light and they look awesome...
I was wondering if there's an easy way to aim/level them without taking button bumper cover off? Only one needs to be adjusted the passenger side is slightly brighter and aimed higher than driver side when you view them from a distance.
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