I changed the front brake pads, took all the precautions during the change, did not disconnect the 12 v battery, pumped the brake pedal 12 times, started the car and no warnings. Now the brake pedal is a little spongy, if I press the pedal to the floor the VSC/TRAC light comes on, to reset it I have to press on the pedal again and the brakes do work.
View 11 Replies2004 prius. I change the brakes on various cars all the time, and never had this problem. After I changed both sides, I started the car, and saw 4 lights:
- Red brake light
- The yellow exclamation light
- ABS light
- VSC light
The car now stops funny, and reading the service manual, it says that if there's a failure detected, that it will revert back to very basic braking (no abs, only fronts, etc..)... As I was exiting off the fwy, I realized this when one of my front wheels locked up, even and I was not stopping very well. Scared the crap out of me.
In any case, I can't see what I may have done which would cause a failure. The only thing I could think of is to bleed the brakes again, but I did this and think it's ok. Is there anything else I can check or is this something I have to get serviced? I saw another thread where they suspected the actuator, but it is somewhat a coincidence that it would go bad after I replace the pads? I'm not sure how the regenerative brakes works on a prius, and whether there's anything I could visually inspect to see if I bumped something???
Just got out of the dealer they said they recommend front brake change. They quoted me for ~730 just for Rotors/Pads/labor on the front (I am going to shop around).
I tried search Golf R Brakes info prior to posting but alot of the searches are for people buying Golf R brakes for Gti's.
1) Do I need to Replace Both Rotors and Pad at the Same time?
2) Currently Car is still stock and see's no tracks, the most car would see in the next 2 yrs would probably be stg 2+ if that. Would OEM Rotors + OEM pads be sufficient? or should i upgrade pads? Below is listing i found with some different pads options.
[URL]
3) Car is currently a 47.5k miles with oem brakes, should i just replace rears as well? even though dealer did not recommend?
4) SS Brake Lines, should i get them?
Scion TC for Camry SE 2007.
I changed the front brake pads and resurfaced the rotors. After putting everything back together, I took the car to test drive it. The stopping power is fine and there is no squeaking or robbing sounds. However, when I apply the brakes at lower speeds moving forward there is knocking sounds the comes with the tire rotations. What is the reason for this sound?
This is my second time changing the pads and rotors, with the first with no issues. I put grease between the shams and the pads, and I sprayed the rotors with brake cleaner before the installation.
I am going to have to change my brake pads (I am probably going to do the rear shoes as well). I was wondering if I should get my Toyota dealer to change the fluid as well. I have 116,000 miles on her. Lots of highway driving, and this is only the first replacement set, these pads last forever. The fluid has never been changed before.
View 6 RepliesSo, I changed the front brake pads on my 2007 Prius blindly, and in doing so I bled the lines (I also had the key in my pocket!). Now, the ABS light, VSC light and (!) light all are on and continue to stay on while driving. Is this something as simple as resetting the codes? Is the vehicle safe to drive to a repair shop to set strait?
View 2 Repliesi have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
View 2 RepliesWhat is the proper procedure in changing the brake pads without unbolting the caliper?
View 7 RepliesI replaced the front brake pads the same method as a traditional car. (Popped out caliper. Pushed piston in. Put new pads in). I did not pump the brakes after installation (forgot to do so).
I drove off to test drive. A block later as I approached a stop sign, I smelled something similar to burning brakes (this might have been some of the oil I spilled when I added oil just before I left). Went to the next stop sign 100 yards away and was able to stop. Made a slow left turn and MFD displayed a warning and ABS (and maybe other ones too) light came on. I pulled over. I don't remember if the car shut itself or if I turned it off.
Now, I can not get the car started. Had car towed home with wheel lift tow truck.
Tried the following:
- Press brake, push Start: Car appears to power up then shuts down immediately. Lights appear on dash, then go out. The squares around P,N,D,R,B are the last ones to go out.
- Press start to go into ACC mode: Radio and clock power up without problems. Pressing start again results in same symptom above.
- Tried to read code with ODBII scanner: all I get is "ERROR". Appears that it's not linking.
Gen III 2010, 6800 miles. Silver. Fuzzy dice. Pads are still rattling in the calipers when I hit bump when foot is not on brake. It sounds like hell! ...like major suspension components are loose, although I know they are not. Two Toyota dealers have told me this is normal, and no danger. ...no dealer fix.
View 7 RepliesI leased a 2010 Honda Civic (non-hybrid) in March of 2010. I had to replace the front brake pads at 8K miles, 18.5K miles and now again at 27K miles. Each time, I get a screeching, grinding noise from the driver-side front wheel. At 8K, I went to a dealership (not the one where I got the car) who replaced them for free "as a courtesy" (apparently, brake pads aren't covered under the warranty). At 18.5K, I went to the dealership where I leased the car from; they said that it didn't look like the other dealer had actually performed the work (yet somehow, the screeching noise went away). They charged me $250 to replace the brake pads and buff the rotors. Now, at 27K, the screeching noise has returned. The dealership has warrantied their prior work and isn't charging me. They claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system. When I asked them why the pads keep going after 9K miles, they said they don't know, and maybe its the way I brake. I do 80+% highway driving and while I do encounter stop and go traffic on a daily basis, I don't think this is normal.
View 6 RepliesI have returned from abroad after 7 weeks, and my late 2004 Phaeton (3.2 Petrol) has taken a day to "power up" and for some warning icons to disappear. After two days, I have the "Check Brake Pads" warning on. It happened only an hour ago. My breaks feel okay. The car has done 28000 miles.
View 24 RepliesSo a few days ago the warning light that my break pads are getting low came on. My friend needs a ride this weekend that would bring the round trip to about 300 miles. How soon are my break pads on my 20th going to be shot? I don't know if this is an early warning to let you plan to get break pads in the near future, or if it's the same thing as seeing the gas light(Oh crap, gotta head to the gas station and fix this NOW).
View 7 RepliesI noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 V6 with 20s and close to 32K miles, never driven off road. Last Friday this warning "Check brake pads" started to show sometimes. I believe the dealer changed them before, but if he did not, how much should it cost me to replace them?
View 11 RepliesDid a front brake job on my prius today. I replaced the pads and the rotors. I just turned the car on and I have 4 lights on : emergency brake, VSC, ABS and the yellow (!) warning sign. There is also a check engine, but it was there before (something related to my throttle pedal). I have a ODB2 device.
The only "special" things that I can think about is that we absent-mindedly pushed on the brake pedal while the caliper was off the rotor, so the piston was fully extended. Also, the lights were on for a while, so the 12V battery might be low.
We are currently charging the 12V battery.
Today as I was adding pressure to my tires I noticed the front brake pads were wearing unevenly. Both outer pads wore the same. More "meat" on the inner section of pads than on the outer, evenly worn, just sort of slanted down as you move out towards the outer rim of the brake disk.
Is this normal? What would cause this? Should I have it looked at? I've never seen anything but even pad wear, perfectly parallel to the brake disk.
Edit for these pictures to clarify.....
Having trouble with front brake pads rattling? About a month ago, I replaced pads - rotors - caliper pins on my 20th GLI. I know these cars ride a bit stiff but it sounds like my front end is about to fall off. All brake parts were torqued to spec - I've gone through all T25/T30 torx front end screws etc and I just can't find the rattle??? This has only started within the last few days. Any other places to check for obvious loose bolts etc?
View 15 RepliesThe front pads on the R shift from one side of the caliper to the other whenever I move from forward to reverse they make a loud "clack". I thought it might be an O.E. pad issue, but I've changed the pads out to EBC's, but still no bueno. The new pads fit snuggly into the calipers and seemed to have solved the problem at first, but about 5k km's in, they're making the same noise.
I have anti-rattle springs installed, but they're not working. Is there supposed to be a pair of shims between the caliper sliders and the pads grooves that the previous owner removed for some reason? I don't think so, because that car only had 25k km on it when I purchased it; but you never know.
I know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
View 7 RepliesLast week I replaced my stock 2016 Elantra's brake pad's with Wagner Thermoquiet another forum user recommended, came with new hardware (seats), however not new 'plates' (that are on the side of the pads), so I had to reuse the old ones which were quite dirty/ old looking. Anyway, I understand due to the old rotors being on there, I'm going to hear some unusual noise when letting off the brakes until broken in, however, squealing when I press the brakes? (Only happens at low speeds, like drive through window.) I greased all the metal components that make contact with the caliper. I NEVER experienced squealing with the old pads, & these are "supposed to be quiet & more efficient". I'm going to take the wheels off & look at them tomorrow. What I can do?
View 15 Replies