I have a 2010 Prius. Lately it has been in the 80s and 90s here. After my car has been sitting for awhile in the heat (usually during the work day), there is a strong vibration when using brakes. The vibration occurs after I have come to a complete stop, and lasts for 2-3 seconds. After 10-15 minutes, the issue stops. On cooler days I haven't noticed an issue.
View 9 RepliesWe have gotten a record breaking amount of snow this winter and it has been tough on the smaller vehicles. The last couple days my car has developed an odd issue. When I start the car and it is not warmed up as in there is only one bar on the engine temp meter, I put the car into reverse but don't take my foot off the brakes and the car starts to vibrate strongly. Once it's warmed up to a few bars it operates normally. I know the brakes have some ice on them too but that is a different matter, also there is snow/ice packed into the underside due to the amount of snow on the roads here.
Car is currently parked in my garage with the heater heater on so hopefully it can melt some of the junk from the underside by tomorrow.
Picked up another C today cause we wanted the 3 model and got a 2012 with 29K, traded in the other C.
Driving home into a very strong wind I felt vibration in the wheel at 70-75Mph, it seemed to get less when slower.
Can winds cause vibration?
Also can overinflated tires or underinflated cause that vibration too? I didnt check it at the dealer as I thought they would have and its too dark now to check.
One last thing, when they rotate tires, do they also balance them?
Shortly after having my tires rotation/oil change service, I noticed a strong vibration around 45 mph, enough to visibly shake the passenger seat. Other indications:
- It is most noticable when accelerating (e.g. entrance ramp), much less when coasting at 45. I can coast at 45 and when I accelerate feel the vibration increase.
- I did not notice the vibration prior to the tire rotation, so I think it is unrelated to my accident in November.
- The vibration is not apparent at all below 40.
- I had all 4 tires rebalanced (thinking one of them may have thrown a weight) and I still have the vibration.
- I do have a little irregular wear on the tires (inside shoulder).
Before I take it in and have it looked at, I was thinking of taking off one wheel at a time and testing the car w/ the spare on to see if it is one of the tires.
Any other ideas about potential problems that could cause this vibration?
You know what I will never miss by have a Gen III Prius? I will never have to listen to my fan belt squealing on cold day after almost killing the battery hoping my car will start.
After our recent cold snap I was surprised how many cars were in my parking lot at work with people grinding away trying to get them to start and the nasty sounds the cars made once they did start. Everything from rough running, not firing on all cylinders, and/or belts squealing.
Now I will admit the Prius did act a little different that day. When the ICE started it did sound like it was working a little harder than it usually does when I first start it. But in all reality at -20degF the ICE started the same as it ever did.
My 2011 Prius has the abs light and traction control light on. The car has sat 4 days I go and start it and the lights are on. Not blinking steady. I just filled the car Friday could it be the gas cap not tight?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2013 Prius with 15k miles, and this happened to me recently for the first time:
- Drove 40 miles
- 24 hours of inactivity
- Drove a very short distance, maybe for 60 seconds, just enough for the ICE to start
- 48 hours inactivity
- Start car, ICE starts, but sputters and sounds like an old, sick lawnmower, and dies after 3-4 seconds. The "check hybrid system" warning is displayed, and I read a P3191 DTC
- Turn off car, repeat three more times, and by the third time, the warning lights went away, and the ICE runs fine again now.
I took the car to a Toyota dealer, and they told me that they didn't see any problems. A friend of mine had the exact same problem with a 2012 Prius, after the same scenario (3 days inactivity with a 60 second trip in the middle of the inactive period).
I have a 2010 Prius and it has developed a very strong mold smell/odor. It is strongest when the car has been sitting with the windows up. I have tried many of the tips in the forum regarding not using the recirc mode. I've clean the car inside and out, mats, carpeting, every compartment.
I have talked to the dealer parts counter and replaced the cabin air filter with the carbon filter and used the 2 can treatment that Toyota sells (one in the a/c drain x2 and the other in the air intake.). No joy.
I took it to the service department they did the same thing - again, no joy.
They have asked me to bring it back for, and I quote, "exploratory surgery." I asked if this the covered under the Toyota Certified Warranty. He could not confirm that it would be covered.
I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
View 14 RepliesI leased my 2012 Passat SE 2.5 Manual in March and I have been happy with it overall; however, the car has some strange behavior. Sometimes, under hard acceleration while the clutch is partially engaged a strong vibration comes from the engine bay accompanied by a flashing check engine light that turns solid after about 10 seconds. The vibration feels similar to but not exactly like ABS brakes. I took it to the dealer, took a technician on a test drive, reproduced the event for him, and left it in their hands for a day or two. The check engine light code was for an engine misfire. They told me to contact them if it happened again. It has happened a few times ( I need to take it back). I would like to know if I have a defect or if there is a design flaw in one of the systems.
View 24 Replies2004 V6 155K : Today I've experienced a strong vibration that only happens going uphill and goes away as soon as I level out onto a flat surface. I had the drive shaft replaced under warranty several years back. The vibration is so strong I thought I had a flat tire.
View 3 RepliesOK, I've got a 2006 2.0t with 76k on it. It's been a problem car, but I thought I'd nailed everything down. but the last month or so when I put gas in it it'll start rough. Today on the freeway I floored it to pass someone and it started vibrating violently and the check engine light started blinking, I let off the gas and suddenly the vibration went away and it was just smooth as can be. But when ever I accelerate through 2.5-4k on the tach it gets rough again. No clue what's going on and unfortunately I'm not in a spot where I can fix anything expensive on it. What's going on?
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 Forester, recently noticed the front brakes locking up, especially on hot days. Completely immobilized car, to get going again I would have to wait for them to cool and/or cool them with water if pads smoking from trying to drive with brakes engaged, and tap on calipers and master cylinder to allow pads to release. Problem got worse as it got hotter out, due to job I rarely drive car and didn't get in for service yet. Last time pads burned a whole lot and braking felt odd (less pressure and uneven like rotors were messed up or pads burned up).
Took it into brake place, they had never seen before. When they inspected, discs were in bad shape with one cracked, but I don't think that was original problem, just caused by driving with them hot. Shop at first said fluid seemed clean but I left and later they said it was contaminated but I don't trust them. Shop solution is replace everything: calipers, pads, hoses, flush system, and replace ABS (the most expensive part I am hoping isn't actually necessary). I don't trust shop for several reasons including because they admitted having never seen this and seemed content to take maximum amount of money just to replace everything without knowing what actual problem was.
Change rotors , pads and calipers and I still get a vibration when I hit the brakes slowing down on the highway.
View 19 Replies2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
View 1 RepliesI have 1997 Mazda 626 I4 5 speed manual transmission with 140k on it.
All of a sudden I am getting a horrible reoccurring vibration and noise that sounds like I'm driving on a rumble stripe at about 60MPH coming from the front end when accelerating.
It speeds up as I accelerate.If I push down my clutch or let off the gas it goes away immediately. While turning right it will go away immediately until I straiten it back out.It happens in any gear at any speed in any weather although it seems more likely to happen when everything is cold.It isn't always there and there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to when it happens or clears up.
I'm the original owner of a 2005 Mariner (3.0L V-6, 114K miles). We live in Central TX, so we are just starting to experience cooler weather (40's - 50's at night, 60's - 70's daytime). At this time of year and through the winter, this Mariner develops an annoying rough idle. It is more like a strong vibration when in Drive or Reverse, not really a miss in the engine. Increasing the idle speed with the accelerator pedal works, and it does get somewhat better as the engine gets to normal operating temp, however if the day is cold (30's or 40's) it doesn't get better.
I've changed the plugs, changed the IAC valve, and cleaned the MAF sensor a couple of times, with no improvement. We almost exclusively use Exxon or Chevron gas, which should have good fuel-injector cleaning additives, so I sort of doubt the injectors are at fault. I've had a local mechanic check to see if any codes exist, but nothing shows up. This has gone on for 2 or 3 years, but it was not like this when the car was newer.
This morning I went to start my avy and it ran poorly for about 30 sec (strong vibration stinking bad sounds) than started knocking loudly. It ran great when I parked it. I read that it could happen from poor quality gas, which I got gas the last time at a super run down gas station that still had rolling digits for the price I also used seafoam in the tank, could that be why? I took it to the dealer already which is about 30 miles after the car was warm it ran great.
View 2 RepliesWanted to query the collective wisdom here: last few days, been getting a strong grinding/vibration rolling along, but only under steady speed or slowing down. Early in any trip its barely noticeable, but after an hour on the highway it can resonate pretty strongly. Gets worse with speed. Goes away completely under acceleration.
Doesn't get better or worse with brake application, stays exactly the same if I pop the tranny into neutral and roll along.
2008 B6 Sedan (trendline in Canada) - 103000 km (roughly 60000 miles)
Couple of possibly related observations: tires are down to their last 1/3 of life (but fairly even wear across all 4), brakes do need attention (bit of a pulse on application), and when I was switching from snows to summers I noticed a small splash of grease on the driver side CV boot - couldn't see a split but I don't think it should have been there.
My thoughts: possibly CV joint going, or really need new rotors...
I had my tires rotated about 2,500 miles ago with tire balancing and wheel alignment done. After this the car developed strong vibrations at between 55 and 65 mph. When the speed goes up or down from that range the shaking stops. If I am going at a speed higher than 65 mph and brake the car shudders until the speed is below the 55 to 65 range.
I had the VW dealer do another tire balance, but the problem persisted. I then went to a Goodyear tire outlet and had them do a tire balance and then another one about two weeks later. The problem is still there. The Goodyear people suggested running the car for a while and see if it improves. It has not about 2,000 miles later
The VW tech rode with me and said that it was warped rotors that caused the vibration, but if the rotors are warped, should this vibration also be felt for other speeds?
My GS350 barely has 20k miles and started doing this recently. When I would have the fan in "circulate air" mode and blower on highest, the blower makes a very loud buzzing noise and strong vibration. The blower is on the passenger side next to the glove box. When the air is pass through it does not do this.
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