Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 - Keeping One Of The Aux Power Sockets Live
Aug 30, 2010
I have seen several posts recommending Costal Tech's mod to keep one of the aux power sockets ("cigarette lighter") live. However, this does not work for the 2010 Prius (works only until 2009). How to make the cigarette lighter live even when the car is turner OFF?
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'15 Persona, should I keep the tire pressure higher during winter? I normally keep it at 33 front 32 rear, like the sticker on the door shows.
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I have a 2002 f250 CC 4wd 7.3 and I have no power to my reverse light sockets. I am stumped, all my fuses are good, I don't think there's a relay so i haven't checked that. My neutral safety switch is good, I'm getting power to both the blue/pink and black/pink wire. What it could be, at first it was constantly blowing fuse 27 every time I put it in reverse but then it stopped blowing it obviously because they won't come on.
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This is new to my wife and I and I can't seem to keep the LED's on while driving during the day? I have the stalk set to AUTO and during the day time nothing is on and we want the LED's on during the day. They will come on when I manually turn on the headlamps. I'm sure it's some setting.
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One of the frequent stations I listen to, WXRT 93.1 here in Chicago, switched over from the standard "HD Radio" icon to one that I haven't seen yet "HD Radio Live" icon. Not sure what this means but it may be related to how some live HD radio can be paused, on other HD radios. Just a guess. Not sure if this has showed up on other HD radio stations but this is the first time I've seen this new icon .
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Where I can find a source for 12V in front cabin where it will always be on ?
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So, I noticed after the week long heatwave (using Priidash and the Prius display) that during normal driving (under 65mph and slow accel) that my prius is NOT keeping the battery at 60% SOC....It is staying in the low 50's or as low as 39.5%....If I go above 70mph, I see the battery being drained and not recharged at all....I reset the battery (twice) the first time it made no difference but the second time the car turned on and said I had 60% SOC when in reality before the ECU reset I was at 49.5%. I know my battery is good because I have stress tested it many times. Its in great shape. The only thing I've done differently these past few weeks is I left the car in Park with the AC on 75 auto for about 5hrs on 4 different days....Its a 2004 Prius.
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Does the engine turn on and off frequently lead to a lower engine life? I have always heard that the biggest wear on an engine happens when it is turned on. If the oil is draining from the Prius engine each time stops it seems like there would be a lot of engine wear.
Does the Prius (2010) engine have some way of keeping the engine lubricated when it is turned off?
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When it is off, the power locks keep locking every 30 seconds!
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I've been having a few problems with keeping my ipod connected with Entune. I was working fine but lately the ipod screen keeps saying loading. Then when I switch to another source like FM, then back to Ipod, I also get a "Function not available" screen. The only thing that has fixes this is to hard reboot my ipod, and turn off the car and restart.
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Is there any way to keep the front white LED lights on with the driving lights?
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I've noticed and been experimenting the past 2 days with something strange, at least strange to me. Leaving work each day, I have about 4.5-5 miles of minor down hill grade. It always aggravates me that I can't truly glide on most of this slope because the ICE motor is warming up.
Yesterday I was watching the Eco meter/bar as I was coasting to the first of 2 sharp (15MPH) 90 degree turns, and noticed that as I applied the brakes, the ICE must have turned off because the MPG meter shot up to the top of the scale.
Normally, I'll accelerate to 35-40 MPH, release the throttle and watch the ECO bar go into the charge section of the gage as the MPG meter goes into the 90-100 range. I slowly depress the accelerator, to move the bar back toward the neutral/glide position and as I do, the MPG meter slowly drops to around 40-50 and continues to drop as the speed slowly bleeds off. But as I said, yesterday as I applied the brakes, I noticed the meter went shooting to 100.
So today I played with it and not only was I able to get the ICE to turn off at each of the sharp turns, but after accelerating, as I was going straight after the second turn, I was able to get the ICE to turn off by braking while still keeping the throttle depressed to maintain 35 MPH.
Now I don't have any extra meters to tell me what the engine temp was, so I don't know what stage of warm up the motor was in, but I can tell you that outside temp was about 65, the first turn is about 90 seconds (1/2 mile plus parking lot congestion leaving the school) into my journey and the second turn exactly 1/2 mile on down the road (35 speed limit). Without using the braking trick, my motor will not shut off for gliding until about 6-8 minutes or 2.5-3.5 miles into my drive.
Trick to turn off the ICE? I was able to raise my overall MPG for the 23 mile round trip from 63+ to 64+ MPG today by being able to actually do serious gliding in those first 3 miles.
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The Volt has a mode called "mountain" that keeps the battery at least 40% full at all times. Does the Prius Plugin have a mode to keep its EV-mode battery a minimum percentage?
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When I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
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I have posted separately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec.
It indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before maneuvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars.
By pressing the gas in park and neutral, it would start and rev up but never generated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars.
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I am having heat issues with my 2004 Prius. Recently it has been difficult for the defroster to keep the windshield clear and the heat output is clearly not normal. It's chilly here in Vermont so having heater is important. I have been doing some reading in this forum and have gained some insight into how the heating system works.
One observation I notice is that the radiator does not seem to get hot at all. If I open the cap on clear overfill tank under the hood it appears to be full. In fact the coolant seems to be circulating through this tank. If I dunk my finger into the fluid it is only warm. There is a warning about not opening when hot but it is not hot so I can open it.
As I sit in the car I can hear liquid circulating through in the dash board area. When I change heater setting to enable different vents and defrost each change produces sounds that would make me believe the mechanical things are working ok. It's just not very warm.
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I have a RX330 and recently noticed that both the RH and LH outer tail lamps bulb sockets are melted.
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I got my headlights swapped but the turn signal sockets can't go into the housings. The old bulb socket thing is a 90 degree twist in and it would twist in if there was room for the socket to twist. The back of the housing has a blocky lumpy thing in the way and I need a straight in socket I guess.
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I just replaced a burnt out tail/brake lightbulb and found that I had sockets for 5 lights yet only 3 were filled....two were empty. How could this have happened and shouldnt they all be filled? I replaced the blown one but I feel like I should get 2 more per side to make it a full housing. I also am not certain what kind I need . The turn signal bulbs are fine....it's just the tail/brake light bulbs. Why were they not filled? 2002 V6 Passat.
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Looking for a replacement part for the Copper Ring that bulb screws into? Attached is a picture I copied from a previous post. Notice the copper ring. On mine 2000 Excursion one of these rings is broken.
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On occasion, on the power generation screen, I see just the motor applying power to the wheels. this only lasts about 2-3 seconds and I can't see any pattern to it (speed, going down grade, cold, warm etc). Is this normal?
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