Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 - Hatch Door Will Shut But Lock Does Not Engage
Jan 23, 2014
I cannot lock my prius hatch door. It will shut but the lock does not engage. Apparently the lock is broken. Can I order the part and have a mechanic friend do it for me as Toyota want to charge $200 to install it. The part from Toyota is $210.
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2010 prius III. Just got it about a month ago and I've noticed that when I go to close the hatch, it slams pretty hard. I feel like the struts will hold up the hatch to about 2/3 of the way down then it just drops really hard and slams shut while rattling the spoiler so hard I feel like it's going to fall off. Is this normal, or should I look into maybe replacing the struts?
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I have a Toyota Prius 2012 type 2 and I did install a vip 3200 Plus alarm system. My question is that why is the automatic lock not working? I park the car, get out, and close the door but do not lock the car. After 5 minutes, the automatic lock system is not engage or the alarm system does not arm.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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My wife tried to close the hatchback door on our 2010 Prius I, something was in the way, she forced it and now I can't get the door to unlock. I tried the manual door release which is small metal lever on the lock assembly (as covered in the user manual); however, the lock won't release the striker. I've unbolted the lock assembly to see if the striker was jammed in the lock mechanism. I can now rock the lock assembly back and forth and I don't see any foreign objects in the locking mechanism, but still cannot open the lock. How to manually open the lock mechanism (is there somewhere I can apply pressure to force the mechanism to open and release the striker)? Again, the metal lever discussed in the user guide does not work.
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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I have an 8 month old vehicle that will not lock the driver side door lock (using the power lock, fob and/or when you take the vehicle out of park). The issue seems to go away, but returns usually right after I get it back from the dealership. On a side note all of the other door locks activate and deactivate fine.
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When I close my boot door, I am finding I am having to slam it shut because it keeps bouncing open. I've take my car too toyota and they come out with, I have to have front car door open for it to shut first time, (but it still bounces bk open). I personally think its the boot catch not working as it should...
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I have a 2010 Prius and noticed that lately I sometimes have to press either lock or unlock several times before the little black and red switch moves to either lock or unlock.
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I can't seem to lock my driver's side door via my key fob anymore. It locks all the other doors. When I press the lock button, I can hear the other doors lock and no beeping sound. There is a light blinking on my dash according to the manual the accessory mode light is blinking. I How do I shut it off? I've turned the car on by pressing the power button and pressing the brake then shut if off normally by pressing the power button.
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I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
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I have a 2010 prius and my driver main controls don't work. My driver window has no auto function but still rolls up and down but my door lock controls and all other window controls are completely non functional. I don't know what to do!!!
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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Is there a way to lock all five doors (4 passenger doors and hatch) without using the smart key OR the keyfob? See, I'm an avid backpacker, so I like to leave the SKS off when I'm going out for 5-8 nights. My keyfob is broken, however, such that the lock and unlock buttons don't work, but the smartkey does. So with the smartkey off, I can manually lock the 4 passenger doors, but the hatch is still accessible. How I can lock all five doors without using the smartkey or the keyfob?
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I have a 2010 Elantra where the rear driver door randomly won't shut. The lock intermittently won't engage and the door just swings back at you. Happened twice and I just thought nothing of it and played around until it closed. I was at my dealership (for another problem) and I opened that door to get something out of the backseat and the door just swung back at me when I shut it. They kept the car and lubed it up and said it was working fine. 2 weeks later it happened again when I was running errands and it took me half an hour to get it to close again.
This particular thing apparently isn't covered under warranty so my solution was don't open the door. Now my trunk is doing it too! The trunk has always sporadically opened on its own every now and then and I always thought maybe I was pushing the button on the transmitter... Nope! My car went back to the dealership for the trunk and the door. They got my trunk to close by "fiddling around" and couldn't recreate the door not closing and both APPEARED to be working fine. The next day the trunk wouldn't close again. I got it to close by playing around with the lock and the transmitter. It opened again while I was driving.
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I bought an '02 LE, 4 cyl w/123k miles and found electric issues. Are they somehow related and indicate a bigger issue? No lights by shifter (PRINDL). Auto shut-off for overhead light works intermittently. Driver door lock button works intermittently – at times when you pull to lock door it’s ok. At times it slides back and forth doing nothing, and can’t be locked manually w/ key or w/ remote. Driver and passenger windows kind of jump at start of open and end of close.
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About a year ago I put in a new lock motor and it worked fine for a while but has stopped working. Is it the lock motor or something else? It unlocks but won't lock. There is not latch indicator on the upper hatch so it stayed unlocked without me knowing it.
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I checked my rx350 battery health and it is good. Still I am having recurrent issues when battery dies. And needs a restart. It happened many times and last one just happened this morning and I have feeling that this is related to rear hatch door...let me explain what happened:
Yesterday evening I went for grocery shopping and opened the rear hatch door using my car key remote, kept the groceries and closed the rear hatch using the button on the bottom of rear hatch door. I drove back to home and parked the vehicle in the garage. This morning I opened the rear hatch again and closed it, drove it to a house one block away, returned home and parked the car.
When I tried to start 1 hour later, the battery had already died. So, I have a feeling that opening and closing the rear hatch door 3 times caused this battery drain.
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I accidentally closed the hatch door on a terry towel and now my hatch won't open. When I use the key fob to unlock the doors, I hear the click. It allows me to lock the door. The dash does not indicate that any doors are left open.
I've tried clearing as much of the towel out as possible. I've tried to follow these instructions to manually open the hatch using the lever but am not sure if I'm pulling the lever with the correct amount of force for fear of real damage.
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When I open the hatch on my new Gen4 Prius, the hatch door goes so high that when the garage door is open (i.e., rolled up overhead rather than behind the car), the hatch door hits the garage door. I'm worried that this will both damage the Prius's paint job and make a mark on the door.
Is there a way to adjust how high the hatch door goes when it opens? The only alternative I can think of is to put some padding the garage door and/or the edge of the hatch door -- which doesn't seem like a satisfactory solution.
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I have just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS and occasionally the passenger door won't shut. When you close the door, it will bounce back. It's like it's not catching. I took it to the dealer and they lubed the mechanism that catches, but it did it again. And of course, this is one of those things that won't repeat itself at the dealership.
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