Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 Engine Starts To Shake, P3191 Appears
Jan 22, 2015
I have a Prius 2010, 4 years old with 144.000 km.
The last 3 night we had temp. below freezing point. So every time I started my Prius up at the morning, the engine starts to shake violent, and then automatically shut off the engine with a message on the screen "Check Hybrid System". So after several times I restart the car, it runs normally, still with the message on. The temperature outside was -1 degree Celsius.
So I used my OBD to pick up the codes, which says P3191 - Unknown Error.
What does this error mean at what could cause this problem?
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I leave my car for 2 weeks without driving, and when I start the power, I have check engine light on and I drive to the dealer right away. Mechanic performs diagnostic test for engine misfire no engine miss found. The error code is P0302/P3191. The mechanic told me that I always run the car in very low on fuel, and it causes the 2nd cylinder misfile or not running when the fuel is very low. They suggest me always pump the gas when the fuel indicator has 2 bars left.
My question is that: How come the car cannot run in low fuel, low fuel doesn't mean no fuel, and it can damage the engine/cylinder?
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Looking at a 2003 Prius with 77K miles. Turn the key, the engine starts, runs smooth for about 5-7 seconds. After that it starts to run rough and rattle, then shuts off. The only code I pulled was P3191. I pulled off the air cleaner to clean the throttle body, and noticed a small pool of oil in the bottom of the intake manifold. Is that normal, or could that be causing the code issue? BTW, I cleaned the MAF and throttle body, and the engine still does the same thing.
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How do you warm up? I turn it on and it might start the engine for a few seconds then shut off... How do I know it's ready and warm?
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The first part of diagnosis is to understand how frequently this happens and hopefully find any reproducible patterns. This is an open poll running to the end of October.
ZVW30 - 1.8L Prius...
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Is it normal? I tried to find a discussion about this in this forum but couldn't find anything.
When coasting over 35 mph, when the speeds reaches 35, the engine (or ICE as you prefer) is starting for a second then stops. I really don't see why it would do that.
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1995 Honda Civic appears battery is dead, takes 20 turns to start up, then has trouble with RPM's while driving. Even the clock and radio reset I thought the battery was so dead, but the car still starts up every time. And sometimes when I accelerate it has trouble keeping up and chokes a bit. Is this one problem or two? It seems electrical to me.
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I just add buffer speaker to my Prius 2004 and after a few hour it have check light appear what is problem ? It relate to electric system or not ?
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My 2010 Xle camry, only has 10.030 miles, today engine light turn on and SRC too, when i started engine shake few, then 2 light turn on together, 2 months ago happens some similar but i thought Was battery. And I changed , immediately two light turn off.
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Is it safe to drive my '02 with the triangle on the dash? I've tried to get rid of it, throttle body cleaned, MAF cleaned, battery seems good (13v, no load). What else can I do to try and get rid of it? BTW, '02 Prius, 183K mi. It runs good, cycles on and off normally (motor to battery, etc.). The code clears it self after sitting about a week w/ occasional starts, then I drive it for about 50-70 miles and the light comes back on...
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I have a 2003 with ~230,000 miles on it. We are the 4th owners, and have owned it for 7 years / 120,000 miles.
7 months ago, in December, I experienced my first red triangle of death. It happened on a warm start, but drove fine. Took it to O'Riley, they used an Innova 3120 to check the codes, and these are the 3 that came back (P1455, P0420, P3191). After starting the car the 4th time, the warnings went away, and all seemed well. It happened again about 3 months ago while on the highway, and again went away after 4 starts. At the time I was not too terribly worried about emissions codes, we live in an area that doesn't require testing, but the 3191 was the more ominous one.
The red triangle came on again two days ago, about 5 minutes after a cold start, and again today, about 5 minutes after a warm start. I do not know what the current codes are, but I will be taking it to a store tomorrow to get them checked. I had an oil change 4 days ago. I checked the intake manifold for any sign of liquid (I saw several posts in RE to the 3191 of that being a possibility), and it is as clean as our '05s. I checked my service history, and didn't have anything done the first two times this happened.
If the same codes persist, I'm assuming the problems could be cheap to almost what the car is worth (~$2,500).
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2003 Prius. Situation as follows:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp lit on start-up during sub-freezing weather for failure to start (P3191 and P3101 codes loaded). Occurred twice (so far).
Dealer diagnosed as possible fuel pump problem, though fuel pressure nominal and held pressure after engine shut-off.
Independent mechanic (using EG011-03) diagnosed following:
Diagnosis codes: P3191 (engine does not start) and P3101 with information code 205.
Circuit opening relay was fine.
Fuel Pressure was normal (~45 psig) and held after engine shut off.
Coolant temperature - 9 deg C
Engine RPM - 1200
MG1 Torque value - 0
Installed ECU Part Number - 89661-47053, calibration # 14705301, 14705302
EG011-03 decision tree leads to replace Engine Control Module with newer part number.
Took back to dealer, who indicated still possible fuel pump problem (and reluctant to replace ECM).
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My parents' Gen 1 2003 Prius, at 99,030 miles, wouldn't start, and I thought I'd share the problem description and the fix that worked for me, for others who see the same symptoms.
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I've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
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Each time I reach 67mph, the empty passenger seat will shake profusely and I do feel a strong vibration under the car. Once I get above 72mph, the sensation goes away. Anything under 67mph is smooth as well.
It doesn't matter if I'm accelerating or coasting, It will occur between these speeds. I assume that I have one or more tires that may not be balanced correctly?
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I got my oil changed today and thought everything (10 am) was fine with my car. I drove it straight home after the oil change. About 4pm I drove it to work and no problems still. Finally tonight on my way home right as I turned on to my street the car at first seem to hesitate. Slow a bit and I pushed the accelerator. Then suddenly as I pulled in my drive way the engine began to shake as though I was about to stall and the check Engine light came on as well as the big red triangle.
This has happened before. The display being lit up like a christmas tree so but this time the engine shook. I turned the car off, check the oil, which is full and the coolant which is full. The engine has not shook yet ( but I wont leave the car on for a long time to see if it happens again) the Red Triangle has turned off and now only the check engine light remains.
I am going to call Firestone, that is where I got the oil change all I know is that they did a routine check up (unauthorized by me) and told me I needed a new water pump drive belt and tires and a air filter..... So I am hoping they didn't touch something by mistake. I told the man that I would much rather have that done by the dealership.
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2007 passat variant 2.0T ... I had recently fit a pair of anti lift kit on the car. Also did an alignment right after with front Toe close to 0 degree. Now the steering start to shake at 70mph or above speed. Car is going straight and no shake at below 70mph. Where should i look at??
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Something in my Gen II 2006 Prius is causing a type of overheating condition in the hybrid system. The fault/error codes coming up are P3190 and P3191. If I turn the car off for 30 minutes and restart it, it runs fine for a period of time (but usually not more than a week).
I first noticed the problem a couple of months ago during my 45 mile (mostly highway) commute. While driving on the highway, I noticed that the Prius wouldn't accelerate when I stepped on the gas pedal. A couple of minutes later, my dash warning lights come on and the car started slowing down (no response to the gas pedal at this point). For a minute or so, I was able to change gears (reverse or drive) and move a little in either direction but the transmission stops responding altogether very quickly.
Dash lights that light up
Hybrid system error symbol lit up and I noticed that the hybrid battery charge level was at one purple bar.
The first time it happened, I had my car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. The flatbed tow truck driver (to my surprise) was able to start the Prius and back it into a spot at the dealership. Some of the dash lights were no longer lit.
The dealer couldn't find anything wrong with the car except for the fact that my water pump was leaking. They replaced the water pump, cleared the error codes and drove the car around for about 45 minutes but couldn't reproduce the problem. I drove my car home.
note: this dealership replaced my hybrid battery and 'computer' (I'm sure it has a specific part name - I don't have the info) right before my warranty ran out over a year ago. I didn't have any warning lights lit up on the dash at the time but I told the master mechanic working on my car that it didn't have much power going to the wheels when I put it in reverse (I couldn't back into my driveway). After the hybrid battery and computer were replaced, I had no issues with backing into my driveway.
The same issue happened a week later. I turned the car off for 20-30 minutes, started the car and noticed that the bulk of the dash warning lights turned off so I drove it home. I took it to my local mechanic the following day. He cleaned the intake manifold, changed the spark plugs, cleared the P3190 and P3191 codes indicating that they were generic codes indicating a misfire and said that it was now running fine.
A week later the same thing happened. I did some research and brought the car back to my local mechanic and asked him to change the transmission fluid & to use the Toyota ATF WS fluid. He changed the transmission fluid (and noted that it was dirty), cleared the codes and I brought the car home. I unfortunately didn't get a sample.
We had a power failure that night so I plugged my pond aerator into the cigarette lighter to keep my koi alive and less than 2 hours later I came out to find the pondmaster ap-20 (20 watt) air pump (blows bubbles through 1/2" tubing) wasn't running and my car had shut off with the dash warning lights illuminated. I have run this little aerator for 4 days on a single tank of gas without issues in the past.
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When I am going between 55+ mph my car starts to shake when I use my brakes. The mechanic at the Mazda dealership told me that the brake rotors are warped and need replacing. I asked the mechanic how this happened when I have such low mileage on the car. He said that the rotors would warp if they overheated which could happen if I brake going downhill, doing a lot of city driving, or if carrying a heavy load.
My car has only about 11,600 miles on it. Monday-Friday I drive 5 miles to work each way. On weekends I drive about 50 miles on the highway. I do not ride the brakes and I can only think of two times in the 2 years I have had the car that I have had to slam the brakes on hard. Clearly, most of the brake use is during my drive to work, but that is only 5 miles one way.
I explained that I do not carry heavy loads since I normally drive by myself and maybe a dog or two. I also explained that the other situations he posted of braking when going downhill or doing a lot of city driving sound like normal driving situations, and not anything that should cause rotors to warp? The mechanic said that he could only tell me what would cause my rotors to warp and that how I drive is "on me".... grrrr. Not happy with that response at all.
I bought an extended warranty when I bought the car new and was at this time told that because the rotors are warped, as opposed to cracked, they aren't covered by the extended warranty because warping is considered a result of routine use. The repair is also not covered because I am over 12 months on the normal warranty.
Does this scenario sound right in a car with this mileage? Could I possibly have warped the rotors during a 5-mile commute to work? If so, what do I need to do to prevent this from happening again, because I am not willing to pay $350+ every 12,000 miles to replace rotors? I have been driving for over 40 years and have never run into this problem before. This is my first Mazda though, and it very well may be my last.
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The red triangle light and the car with the ! Light went off and these are the codes the local shop has found:
- P0121
- P3190
- P3191
- C1259
- C1213
- P3101
The shop I went to in Little Rock would not touch it. Need to put these together and diagnose where to start?
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I took it to the dealer and they blamed the trailer. I told them that I have pulled two different trailers and it did it with both. Then he said that the trailer was not heavy enough to weigh down the springs. So now I not suppose to tow an empty trailer? Also my father in law has pulled the trailer with his Z71 with no shake and the other belongs to a neighbor with a 98 F150 with no shake. The vibration only starts above 45mph. Any clue as to what could be causing this?
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