Prius (Gen 3) :: 2010 - Correlation Between MG1 And MG2 Temperatures
Nov 6, 2010
On my 2010, I am monitoring the inverter coolant temp with the SCANGAGE2. Has correlated that temp to the MG1 & 2 temperatures? I usually see the inverter temp running 10-20F above ambient temps, and am considering some winter grill blocking but need to know if the inverter temp is a sufficient guide to the temps at the MG sets. Reading over the gen 2 blocking posts, I see some rather high readings with grill blocking. Would only block the lower grills anyway, but want to be sure I am instrumented well enough before I do anything.
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I was previously told that, absent a tachometer, I should try to keep my the MPH/MPG ratio at 1.5 to 2.0 for greater efficiency.
I have now bought a scangauge II and assuming that the Prius sweet spot is at 1800-2200 rpm, that translates to a 1.4-1.6 MPH/MPG.
So I try to keep the rpm at 2000-2100 on the highway and around 1800-1900 rpm in the city. MPG has improved...
Any example regarding the conversion of RPM to MPH/MPG has been similar.
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I have a 2007 prius. About a month my dad has lightly knocked the car with a wall at the front left side of the car. the coolant tank has been pushed & the pump has started giving abnormal noise whenever running but the problem is that i got a check engine light with the red triangle & a sign on the multi-information display. I have pulled the tank to its right place & released the pump after cleaning the calcification and so the noise has stopped & i have disconnected the battery during working & so the error code has gone.
After about one day the check engine light has came back alone & the reading was P1150 which means a coolant path clog.
I have tried all I can & done some tests; the water temp. in the coolant tank is hot even after hours of driving. I think there's no clot because when i cleaned the pump i have puffed into the tubes after disconnecting some connections & the air was going out easily from all openings. I have resetted the error code 2 times
now i'm having a new phenomenon.. in the past 2 days during driving & especially when i pull hard on the pedal & when the battery is in its lowest level . Suddenly the red triangle show up with sign that indicate a high temperature on the multi display. These signs don't remain more than 3-5 seconds & then disappear.
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I have a 1984 camaro z28 305 that has problems with overheating. In temperatures below 70 degrees I don't have problems but above this temp I do. I put in a new radiator, thermostat, water pump (OEM), added an extra electric fan, and put the transmission on a seperate cooler. The engine was rebuilt a about 5 years and I think I had some problem with the over heating even before the rebuild. I park the car during the summer because I can't stand driving with the heat on in the middle of summer to keep the engine cooler.Would a high flow water pump work or what else can I look for?
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I have a 2010 Camry and my air blows but not as good as it use to. The air doesn't get cold in extremely hot temperatures and does not blow as hard. At night the Ac works fine and gets cold. Same with the heater, the heater works fine but once idle the heat blows cold. When i start back driving the heater gets hot again.
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I've had my '96 Saab 900S for almost 6 years and it has 119K miles. Last weekend w/ the below freezing temperatures, she decided not to start on me again. I'll reiterate the word "again" as this non-starting problem happens once or twice every winter, when the temperatures are very cold, usually 20 degrees or colder. I've taken it to the mechanic who doesn't know why it continues to do this to me every winter during a really cold spell. As soon as the weather warms up 30 degrees or higher, the car starts up fine w/in a couple tries. During the non-starting fiscal the car will turn over, but then just dies, as if it is "starving for fuel".
On a few occasions I've tried the "cold start", or pushing the gas pedal while turning the engine on for 5-10 seconds, and then trying to start the car normally right after. This has worked on occasion in the past, but isn't a sure bet, this last weekend it didn't work. Recent work includes new battery, distributer cap and rotors, spark plugs, fuel line checked out "ok", and fluid changes are regularly maintained. Does it sound electrical or mechanical? No check engine light comes on so it makes it hard to diagnose. As this car was built in Sweden, it shouldn't be so temperamental in the below freezing weather every winter.
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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My 2008 Santa Fe has a problem with the power steering at temperatures below about 8 C.When I start the vehicle in the morning in the garage and begin to reverse, the steering wheel seems stuck and will not move. As I force it, usually to the right, it breaks free but will not return to the left without much coaxing and further turning to the right. There are no fluid leaks or unusual sounds while this is happening of any kind. I replaced the steering rack once for this problem and immediately after a second time with no improvement. I am using the OEM fluid. The vehicle is well maintained and has been having this problem since 60,000 km(40000 miles) I really fear my next visit to the Hyundai Dealer and the frustration of not knowing how to get them on track to solve this potentially life threatening problem.
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I have intermittent ambient readings for outside temperatures. Several times it seems to just be stuck at some temperature point and then doesn't move. My last trip to Wyoming it was set at 51 degrees far. and didn't move for days. I've had this happen before and then if left alone it will start working again in a few days. What is going on?
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I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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The driver's side rear suspension on my wife's 1998 Toyota Corolla LE completely locks up when the temperature (read-out from dashboard) is below 30-degF... every little crack in the road feels like the earth is splitting in two and jars my spine. The car becomes almost undriveable. However, above 33-34 degrees, it goes back to being perfectly driveable (as driveable as a 240k mile car is expected to be). I've replaced the front and rear linkages and rotated the tires to try and rule out the wheels... no change in behavior. I just need this car to last another year... really not worth replacing the suspension.
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My 2002 Echo doesn't seem to be producing much heat. I have a scangauge installed, and it shows my temperatures around 75-80 C while our current temperatures here are around -20 C. I'm getting a bit of heat out of the vents but hardly enough to keep me warm.
I noticed that the coolant temperature will also drop a bit when I'm sitting idle listening to the radio before heading into our building at work. From about 85C to 70C, and the vents blow cold air.
My Radiator & Expansion tank are filled to proper level. I have just installed some cardboard inside the grille to try and block some of the cold air from entering. I haven't tested this out yet though.
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I have a 2009 Acura TSX that I bought used ~85,000 miles on it. It has been inspected 5 times and each mechanic says the car is basically new in perfect condition. However, it has an extremely difficult time starting after sitting in cold temperatures for more than about 12 hours. If I drive it every 8 hours or so it is fine. Everything has been checked repeatedly; alternator, wiring, battery connection etc. .. . The battery is only 3 months old.
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When starting, especially in colder temperatures, the engine start is interrupted by a "thud" sound. The start occurs after this one-second "interruption" while I keep the key in the start position. This interruption occurs only once, usually when first starting in the morning. Subsequent starts are normal,unless the car has not been in use for a few hours. Then the "first start" problem re-occurs. The starter motor has been replaced. No improvement.When the problem first began a few months ago, very intermittently, the gauges in the dashboard would not register as would normally happen and I could hear a whirring sound for a few seconds. Then the gauges would perform as normal. This is a 2004 Taurus with mileage of 64,000.
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2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
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In our 2010 rear center seat the belt will only come out a few inches and then stop like that's the end of it. It just got really cold here. We can't have our entire family go in the car now. This is a serious safety issue.
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Despite changing battery in key fob the car sometimes doesn't recognize my key fob. Dealer wants $99 to diagnose it. What should I do?
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Is the Optima D51 battery the best buy for my 2010 Prius and do I need the installation kit too? Is that kit only available from Eleanaid?
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My 2010 has no ACC mode. Took it to dealer to have key fob programed and dealer could not put car into ACC mode.
I'm second owner. This is not an issue of how to put in ACC mode. It does not enter ACC.
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I just got my new 2010 Prius and very happy with it, but I have experienced three different times when the darn car started by itself. I seriously doubt that I left the car on. Each time, the car has been sitting out in the hot sun with temperatures in the high 80's to low 90's. The gas engine has gone from off to definitely on. It happened again today and I went over and looked at it the dash read "Ready" and all systems were "go" on the dash. One of the times I could have sworn the car turned itself off (I was in shock so not 100% sure).
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I have a 2010 Prius with 100,000 miles. It has a vibration that starts at about 70-75 mph and gets much worse at higher speeds. The tires appear good with no unusual wear.
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