Prius (Gen 3) :: 2005 - Engine Buck Wildly When First Started
Jan 24, 2011
Stopped in the dealer to look at a new Prius. Already have a 05 so I sold on the vehicle but was told some things have changed so I should drive it. I hit the power button and the engine proceeded to make a terrible noise like metal hitting plastic. So I shut it down we popped the hood and restarted, the engine was bucking side to side and finally quit down to a normal.
Granted it was cold (22 degrees) and I don't know when the vehicle was last run. They only have 2010 on the lot, I was looking for a II or III and a nice color (tired of silver and don't want white or black) and this was a red III, only one in the lot and the one they wanted to sell me. Not sure I want this one.
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2005 VW Tuareg, 67,000 miles. Engine sputtering and bucking - but only under specific circumstance. If I drive the car over 40 mph for even a short distance and then turn the engine off, the car will start back up normally the next time I start it. But if I were to move the car, say, from the driveway to the street then turn the engine off, the next time I start it, the engine would sputter and buck at idle. It would also buck when I put it in gear and run roughly until I hit above 40 mph, then it would smooth out. Thus, the problem only presents itself if the engine is turned on and the car not allowed to run above 40 mph before it is turned off again. The engine light is on, and the dealership says it's cam adjusters not working right,i.e., meaning BIG $$ to fix. Does that sound plausible?
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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Driving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
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Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
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Must have pushed the wrong button in the dark. Anyway, the TRAC button and the check engine light both lit when I started the car. (push button start). How can I get it off??
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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I bought my 2005 prius used 6 months ago, all the mechanics work fine except my AC which started going in June.
Over 2 weeks it started blowing less, eventually nothing. Used the refrigerant (the correct one with no oil) and filled to around 33 every other day for a while and it would work great. Finally went to dealership 3 weeks ago, paid 140 and they replaced one valve (expansion valve? cannot remember) and filled it up and it worked for 1 week. They said a previous owner had dye put in and they saw the dye there.
Brought it back when I thought it was starting to go again and they said they saw a small amount of dye leaking in the evaporator but it would last 2 months minimum (obviously didn't). I was quoted 1400 for evaporator replacement.
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I am having my trouble with my 06 F150 with the 5.4 V8. I purchased the truck back in the spring and shortly after the truck started misfiring. It was throwing P0306 for cylinder 6 misfire and that was the only code thrown. Seeing as it was out of warranty and right at the 100k mark I replaced all the plugs with Motorcraft plugs, and the plugs that came out were Champion, so it had already been done at least once. This didnt solve my problem at all so I started digging deeper. I replaced the coil pack on the number six cylinder thinking it may have gone bad, but this did not fix my problem either. I had somehow overlooked that the number two cylinder had a Masterpro coil pack that was made in Taiwan or somewhere like that, and after using the Motorcraft coilpack I had pulled from number 6 on cylinder two all my problems went away...until recently.
At the beginning of August my truck started the infamous ticking sound that we all know about. I ignored it for a while, but as I was moving off to college the misifre returned while going down the interstate at around 65-70mph. The truck lost pretty much all power and I coasted off the next exit to see what was going on. After making it off the truck was running perfectly, so I poked on home on back roads at slower speeds to be safe. The next day I took it to the Ford dealership to have them run a full diagnostic scan to determine anything that could possibly be wrong. After sitting in the waiting room for three hours as they searched the guy comes in to let me know they have ran every test they could and nothing was showing up, but the lash adjusters (lifters) on the passenger side of the engine needed replaced as that was what was causing the ticking sound.
Well today I start my truck to come to school and it felt slightly different, but once I accelerated all was fine. Once i left school this was another story though. The CEL was on and the truck was misfiring enough to feel a consistant buck from the engine. I pulled the codes and it is now giving me P0307 and P0316 which are misfire in cylinder 7 and misfire upon startup. What could this be knowing all the plugs have recently been changed and the dealer just inspected the entire engine?
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We have a 2005 Avalon that was leaking oil from the oil pan about 8 months ago. Took it into a local shop and they pulled the engine and repaired the leak; everything seemed normal. Fast forward to a couple of months ago and the engine started developing a tapping sound from the valve cover. Over the span of 2 months, the tapping had become significantly more pronounced. It went from barely audible to HOLY $#!% we can hear it from inside the cabin at freeway speeds.
We finally took it to the dealer and the problem was so much worse than we were expecting. They only pulled the front valve cover, but two of the hydraulic lifters had a ton of play in it and there were very large flakes of metal in the oil. They also found whopping amounts of RTV along the seam where the timing chain cover attaches. And it was a ton! You could see goops of orange stuff all over the inside of the timing chain cover seam. While Toyota wasn't able to find the exact cause, the working (and very likely) theory is that the excess RTV broke off and blocked some of the oil ports (and possibly did damage to the pump), thereby starving the engine of oil and causing excessive metal on metal wear.
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Two days ago my 2005 T went in to have a heated driver seat switch replaced. Since getting it back we now have an annoying red light flashing from just to the top right of the Nav screen. Light flashes until either the radio is switched on or engine is started. I've checked the owners manual and forum but can't find any info on it.
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The horn in my car started to sound like if it was going to catch a cold then it stopped sounding, however if I press the panic button in the keychain it does sound perfect. Where and what should I look for. Is it a relay, the spring contact on the steering wheel?
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A few weeks ago I got in my 2005 EX and started for work. As I idled in traffic, the engine started surging (it had never done this before). So I took it right to Ford and dropped it off before it got worse. Of course, they couldnt look at it until Monday (this was a Thursday), so I had to get a rental.
I get the call on Monday that the surging problem was an injector, but covered by my warranty. But, it seems that my EGR cooler was bad, but even more important was my blown head gasket.
WHAT?! My truck did NOT have a blown head gasket when I dropped it off. But thats besides the point. There was much back and forth between Ford and my warranty company, but finally I got them to cover the head gasket.
But, I had to pay for the EGR cooler. So I asked the Ford mechanic if I could supply him with an upgraded cooler, so I wouldn't have this issue in the future. He said no problem. I then told him I was going to buy a Bulletproof and he said no, get a delete kit. He said "I've done a number of these, and its really the best solution.". He even HEAVILY recommended the ADT Delete kit. He even said that since I have a 2005, we can just leave the EGR valve hooked up and I wouldn't have a CEL issue.
Fast forward several days. I picked up my EX last night and... CEL is on. I called and spoke to the mechanic and he told me that I must have an upgraded program, and that my only option is a tuner to turn off the EGR completely. He also told me that I don't need an expensive SCT or Bullydog just for the EGR.
Anyways, with all of the above setting of the stage complete, just wondering what my best option is here... Is there a simple/cheaper tuner I can use to just disable the EGR? Is it worth the money to get a more expensive tuner? For the most part, this is my daily driver and I don't need a performance or towing tune. I wouldn't mind better mileage, though
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I have a 98 Ranger 4x4 XLT 4.0 5sp. It has 182K miles.
Once in a while it will blow the fuel pump fuse. It'll go 2 years sometimes. And sometimes the engine will stall just for a second making the truck "buck" as it accelerates.
Could it be the pump is about to fail? How long do they normally last? Btw, I change my fuel filter every 2 years, no issue there.
I've owned the truck since new and maintenance is always taken care of. Also, What's the best way to change the pump?
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I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
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I have a 1991 Mazda Miata. Recently I noticed the oil pressure gauge was vacillating wildly between 30 and 60, whereas it always stayed at 30 before. I checked the oil -- it was fine. I took it to my nearby mechanic who said it was the oil pressure gauge. He replaced it with a Miata part. Now the oil pressure stays at 60 once I'm over 20 mph. So what is the correct oil pressure setting and do I need to take it back to the mechanic?
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A few weeks ago, my 09 Sonata V6 starting fluctuating (slightly) abnormally when starting from a cold start. I attributed this to the cold snap (25F mornings down from 40's). To be safe I used a fuel system cleaner at the next fill up.
When the issue didn't immediately go away, I was a little concerned, but extremely busy with work. After 2 weeks of needing to start the car and let it warm up for 10 minutes... things got a lot worse.
RPMs started fluctuating between 2500 and 500. Rev, choke, rev, choke. I got it to the dealer... but it had of course warmed up. Another thread had a similar issue, so I checked for and got an ECM update, reset the adaptive memory, and had the (just due) transmission flush.
No change. The next night, I parked the car in the dealer's lot and let them start it. I suspected the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) but wanted the dealership to independently confirm. The head mechanic definitely noticed it, confirmed with me, and replaced the TPS, did a carbon cleanout and oil change. So far, 2 weeks later, no issues.
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2004 Ford Explorer Sport Trac - Gas gauge indicator arm swings wildly beyond normal arc of travel and lies on one side or the other of the E & F labels in a seemingly random fashion. Some days, the indicator restrains itself to travel within the usual & customary manufacturer's boundaries. Other days, it falls to one side and listlessly rests there until it flops to another position, independent of the amount of gas in the tank. Ford dealer said that this intermittent activity cannot be corrected until the gauge fails completely and forever.
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My 02 navigator does not idle right when in park or sitting at stoplight. I've gotten codes po171 and po174. The truck ran fine for a good 3 months after the (service engine soon light) came on and I got these codes so I decided to do nothing.. Now it idles bad and has even shut off twice on me while pulling into driveway. I changed the MAF and that did nothing.. Should I assume its the o2 sensors or is there a chance my CAT is shot.
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2002 Chrysler Town and Country. My speedometer jumps wildly and then goes clockwise and rest without working. The trany hesitates and has a jerking when sitting in drive, and slow to shift into 2nd gear. We have replaced speed sensors, wiring and connectors, and now are thinking the chassis control box may be next.
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I just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem.
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