Prius (Gen 2) :: Can Change The Heater Temperature
Feb 27, 2013
I purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
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I have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
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Two things are going on with my car. First, when I drive at freeway speeds and turn on the heater, the car temperature drops and then I hear the sound of a tea kettle going off. Second, I hear an off and on sound coming from under the hood on the passenger side. It sounds like metal scratching on metal or like a soft whistle sound. 1997 Honda Accord LX
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It was a cold winter in Boston in the last two months. And since then almost every time I started my 2005 Prius, the temperature was default to 75F. Also, the first time I start the car in a day, it almost show the outside temperature as Celsius instead of Fahrenheit unless I press the screen to display something else and then come back, then the Fahrenheit will come back.
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Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
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When ever I turn my vent air on or change the temperature dial in my golf (non-climate control) the A/C turns on. If I just have the heater on and its too warm and I turn the dial from red toward blue the A/C will turn it self on. If I keep the heat the same and turn the fan from 1 to 2 the A/c will turn itself on. (At least the A/C signal lights up yellow.)
Is this normal for the golf or is something screwy? maybe it needs the ac to dehumidify or something but it is tough to constantly manually turn off the a/c. And btw If I hit the "off" button, the a/c will turn off, but then turn itself back on if i do any thing else.
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I just bought a 1997 Toyota Tercel 5-speed stick, with 175,000 miles, and the temperature gauge moves from its lowest possible position to its highest possible position when the key is turned on, although the engine does not overheat, and no coolant is leaking or being burned. I replaced the coolant temperature sensor, but the actions of the gauge were not affected. I don't know if it is somehow related, but the heater blows cold, regardless the setting of the temperature dial on the dash. What I might try next?
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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My 2004 Intrepid with 100,100 miles runs and starts fine until a temperature change occurs. When that happens, and first starting, the engine will rev up and the check engine light will come. I don't drive it for awhile and then it starts and runs fine, but the check engine light is still on. I've changed various sensors, and the throttle body assembly. Still not fixed. What could be causing this? It has a 2.7 engine.
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The temperature control doesn't change the air temperature on my 94 SL2. If I slide the control all the way to the red, the air blowing out doesn't get any hotter. If I slide it all the way to the blue with the AC button and the recirculating air buttons depressed, it doesn't get any cooler. The blower fan works fine, the AC is charged with refrigerant, the compressor looks like it is working, and all the related relays and fuses seem to be okay. I've taken the radio out and loosened the heat/air control. The cables for the vents and the temperature are both attached. Maybe the temp control cable is broken down the line somewhere.
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As if puttin on all new 4 tires and having to buy a new wheel because one was cracked didn't cost me enough. Car was idling for a good 30minutes or more (arguing with the gf) and out of no where I noticed the exhaust note change and the temperature rise. I shut if off before it even reached the red mark. Yes I checked the cooling fan and its working when the engine is warmed up. Was it possible some wires may have come loose from hitting a pot hole ( main roads) and it caused it to overheat? Car is running fine and I will get it in the shop next week to have it looked at
Could it have caused any damage to the engine even though I was able to stop it quick and let it cool down?
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I have changed the compressor for my lumina LTZ 2001... After that a noisy sound start to appear ... And cooling stopped after a while((around a week)) they told me to change the heater core. And I changed it.After that similar sound start to appear again ... And the cooling start to be reduced gradually ...and then no more cold air..The sound appears infront of the next to driver seat.
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I have a 03 sc430 will a stuck climate control. I can change the temp on the passenger side, but the drivers side is stuck on 65! and its cold here!!!!
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On my 99 accord (v4, lx) i am unable to change temperature i.e no matter whether the knob is turned to cold or hot, it stays hot. AC doesn't work. fan still works.defrost front/rear is not working.. Its like the heating/ac controls are not working.
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I drive a 2002 Ford Ranger and am wondering at what mileage should I change the heater and radiator hoses. The truck lives in Phoenix, AZ and is driven almost daily.
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It is a bit 'of time i notice that the water level goes down more than usual. Lately, the level drops from max to min in a month or so and, in addition, i smell of mold inside the car.
In the past I had the same problem on another car, and it was the tap on the radiator, which leaked. In the case of Rio/Accent, the radiator is a single body, so i suspect that will be drilled. Is it possible to remove it without completely dismantle the dashboard, as happens in many modern cars?
In the past i seem to have touched the internal radiator hoses, on the passenger side, but does not know if there's enough space to pull it off.
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How to always display the outside temperature?
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Why the temperature in the car goes from sometimes not nearly warm enough to feel like your face is baking in the oven? Michigan cold weather...BTW. How to get this more stable....
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So, this may sound strange but from the get-go of owning my Prius I have always sort of doubted the accuracy of the outside temperature reading. I am not totally worried about that part, as I don't really care about the reading, but I would love to understand something. When the thermometer reads the temperature as "37 degrees" it displays this bar that states it as such. The same bar where it notifies you if you change the temperature or volume via the steering wheel. So, I guess my question is , is there something specific about that number or is it just a quirk of my individual Prius? Also, it is worth noting that no other temperature causes it to display this message, only 37 degrees.
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My 2002 Prius wont start if the temperature is below 28deg. The dealer doesn't seem to have any idea why. They replaced the battery but it didn't make any difference.
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I have a 2005 Prius that's got a strange temperature control problem. When the temperature is set to MAX COLD, then it blows cold air as expected. As soon as the temperature is increased slightly (say to 65 degrees) the air gets really hot - as if it is already on MAX HOT. Between 65 and MAX HOT, the air stays consistently very hot.
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