We have a 2008 Prius with 11,000 miles ,which is new to us for about 2 months now.
My wife and I both have noticed a "shudder of the car - when the motor shuts down" at a stop light or whenever needed. It seems a little bit more noticeable than in the previous two months of driving it.
I rebuilt the HV battery w/(tested) Gen II cells on a 2001 that I purchased cheap knowing that the HV was bad.
View 8 RepliesSo I have a 2012 TDI. 55k miles on it. Maintained 100 percent at he dealer. My wife takes the car to work today and three blocks away from the house, the car shudders and shuts off won't turn back on. I go get her so she can take another car to work and when I try to crank the car, it says Engine off, Oil pressure. Car won't turn on.
View 3 RepliesWhen stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
The trans in my motor home has made a growling or slight grinding metallic noise after it shifts into 3rd gear. It only does it for maybe 3 seconds and it doesn't seem to affect the operation. Only way I can describe it is that it grinds, and shudders then goes away. I have towed my race car all this year and it has not caused any issues at all. I am planning on driving out west next year and would like to figure out what the deal is before I hit the road. Also if a rebuild was in order what improvements can be made during a rebuild?
View 1 RepliesWhat's the fix for a 1996 Ford Ranger when the engine shuts if the vehicle is put in reverse? (It will run in drive, but not in reverse; fuel filter, air filter and vacuum hoses have all been checked).
View 2 RepliesI have 2003 Jetta GLI 24V VR6 original owner right from the showroom floor. Just the other day I was driving to work and all of the sudden the rpm's dropped the oil light came on (Beeping) and the car shuts off. I had just changed the oil several days ago and I know the oil level is correct and I check again and the oil level is correct.
So I started of very easy, like most blogs say "oil Sender"...replaced that and after driving for about 20 to 25 minutes...the same thing. So I also replace the oil pump and after driving 20 to 25 minutes the same thing.
No oil leaks. Oil pan is not cracked. So now I am at a loss. I have owned the car from day one and it is very well maintained.
Nissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
View 5 RepliesI purchased this car used last year. It is a 2002 Camry with a 4cyl 2.4L and an automatic transmission, with 75,000 miles on it. The car was driven about 7 months and a little over 2000 mile before the problem started.
I had a P0500 code read by dealer after check engine light came on. The vehicle kind of surged and the motor rpm increased and I seem to loose power. I also told them the tach and speedometer started jumping around. This only last a minute or so and then runs normal. They tested the vehicle speed sensor and said it was working fine and reset the light. After driving it a couple hundred miles the light came on again and they did the same thing. The next time it came on they decided the signal from the sensor going through the cluster (speedometer and tach) might be where the problem lies, since the signal went through there before going to the ecm.
They could not guarantee this was the source, but it was their best diagnosis since the car would not repeat the fluctuating power problem. I went ahead and replaced the cluster and drove it about 1 month and 250 miles before the light came on again. It is the same code P0500. I forgot to mention that the 3rd time the check engine light came on they said they also pulled a P1730 code. The car runs fine after the initial check engine light comes on.
I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
Last night, my son called and said he killed my car. After I established he meant that the triangle of death was displayed, I went out and rescued him. Car shudders on take off, there is an unnatural whine while driving, and then halfway up any long hill there is no connection between the IC motor and the wheels. VSC light comes on, check engine light, not sure what else. Turn the car off, wait 20 seconds, it goes until the next long hill, then repeat. This morning, I drove to the dealers, only had this happen 4 times with one in a busy street where everyone thinks they are too smart and good looking to go the speed limit.
Late in the day, I get a call that the tranny was bad and there is a inverter code and several misfires. I noticed that the traction battery charge was increasing.
2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2001 prius and work on a lot of toyota . I am looking at friend's 02 prius that he got with a bad inverter . To make a long story short I checked the codes before we started and got code 3025 which can translate to a bad inverter if I am correct. The inverter pump was bad so we changed it and flushed the used inverter after we put it in. The "new" inverter seems to be working ,but we still have a major problem with the transmission I believe. The car will move , but it shudders very bad when you put it into drive and reverse both.
It appears like the engine is turning over with the transmission ,when the engine is hot and shut down and running on battery only. Yes the check engine light came on ,but have not had time to pull them yet.I know ,I know .its hard to give me info with no codes. The big question was ,is it possible for the engine to rotate when you drive the car in battery mode? It sounds like the engine is actually rotating and the engine will also rock back and forth with the car driving real slow. I know this will end up needing a transmission.
My car has 120.000 miles and regular maintenence done on schedule. Yesterday, after a 1000 mile / 4 day trip, after a break at a service station, the engine srudded violently (for being a prius, it felt like a diesel) while cranking up durin acceleration.
The check Engine light came on.
Using Can-view, I noted these DTC codes: P0101 C3100 P0000
And cleared the memory.
The check Engine switched off.
Lately, the ICE has occasionally been vibrating or knocking a bit just before it shuts off. It seems to be more noticeable when the car has just stopped at an intersection.
The humidity here is higher than normal for Colorado. The temperature is in the 80s F, so it's not a cold weather issue.
I've been driving through more water than usual due to the recent flooding here. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
My headlights (mainly right, but sometimes left) would sometimes turn off by itself... if it turns off, I would then manually switch off the headlight and switch it back on (right away), and both headlights would come back on... I'm not sure what is causing this, and had thought it was a defective bulb. I went and bought new bulbs, but it doesn't seem like it's the bulbs that are causing it.
View 6 RepliesI've only had my Prius C for a few days.
I'd like to know more about how the ICE shuts on and off efficiently. As a teenager, I was told it was a waste of time to turn a car's engine on and off to save gas. Now, I've got a car that turns its ICE off every minute or two!
I did some searching on YouTube, but couldn't find anything that talked about this. I suspect there is some special injection scheme to pull this off.
Our 2012 prius three is a huge hassle to refuel because the auto shut off on any gas pump is triggered repeatedly regardless of how much fuel is in the car. This happens anywhere I fill up and the only way to get gas in is by slowing the flow to a trickle and restarting the pump each time it shuts off (perhaps 30 times per refueling).
The dealer says it requires a complete replacement of the tank but I'm still not clear on what's causing the problem.
It will sync for about 10-30 seconds, then the car's Bluetooth just shuts off. It's not my phone, as the BT on my phone is working with everything else. I have unpaired, re-paired, shut everything down. It starts up again for that 10-30 seconds, and then it shuts off. Do I need to take it to the dealer?
View 3 RepliesI've been experimenting with 'B' mode while commuting. While stopped at a light, the ICE never shuts down. Is that normal? It seems like it should, regardless of the drive mode. The ICE was fully warmed up (190 F). I believe the battery was fully charged, as well. It tends to stay charged while in B mode.
If I switch from Drive to B while stopped at a light, the ICE stays off until the car starts moving. But if it was in B mode already, it never shuts down when the car is stopped.
I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?