Prius (Gen 2) :: Transmission Knocking At Start-up?
Apr 13, 2016
Just last night my '05 Prius transmission developed an intermittent knocking/juddering sound at start-up. A few seconds after Ignition ON, the ICE would normally start and the knocking/juddering sound comes alive. In Drive mode at low speeds and gentle throttle, it feels as though the transmission cuts in and out. It seems fine at higher speeds. So far there's no warning light on the dashboard or the MFD.
Is this the early sign of failure cited by Luscious Garage. Gen 2 Prius (2004-2009) Transmission Failure, P0AA6, P0A92, P0A7A - Luscious Garage | Hybrid Specialists
Is it possible to read transmission trouble codes with the Mini VCI or must I bring the car to the dealer for a diagnostic?
Maintenance: 2 fluid drain & refill (33k, 101k) and 1 coolant change at 68k done by Toyota dealers. Current odometer: 152k
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Last night I experienced a somewhat troubling event. My C had a horrendous knocking on a cold start @40 Fahrenheit or so. Shook the whole car. It lasted about 3-5 seconds, and ran perfectly afterwards, even making another cold start later on @30 without issue.
How worried should I be, and what's my recommended course of action?
2015 Prius C TWO, not II as uppercase roman numerals were used for model year 2010 Prius, w/5616 miles
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Sometimes I have to park my car two blocks away in the afternoon, and later in the evening i need to park my car back to the spots in front of my apartment.
EV mode won't be enough to last the two blocks, even at 7 bars. Or sometimes the car won't let me turn on EV mode, even at 7 bars (battery too cold).
So the engine must run if i want to park my car back near my apartment. But the two block distance will not suffice to completely warm up the engine
So the next morning... (20~ Fahrenheit)
My car knocks for a few seconds the next morning the car starts up...
What is the definition of completing the warm up cycle? 120F? My car will turn off the engine after coolant temp reaches 120F (ECO mode).
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We have had a few mornings (in garage) where it would seem to not really id say a knock but maybe a clicking sound and it would quit right away. This morning that did not happen so i shut the car off and checked oil it was low.
Got under the car and can not see any leaking no oil on ground. So i had a QT i put in and that seems to quiet it after a few seconds.
I called local TOY dealer and they said its common for 2010 to use some oil and not much they can do. I thought what is a little it was at the end of the dipstick.
They said they can only fill it up and then have me come back in 1400 miles and see how much is used.
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Recently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
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I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
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I have an 06 Prius and I just swapped the transmission out. I got the car to start while it was still on jack stands but after I lowered the car onto the floor I went to start it and it would not start. I am wondering if my battery could be the issue. I am new to prius so I am not sure how this is supposed to work. When I initially put the service plug back in and started the car the display was showing about half bars. When the car would not start I am only showing one bar on the battery display...I assume this is showing me the HV battery charge. So I went into service mode to check the 12volt battery, while in acc the car shows 11.7Volts, then when I switched the headlights on it dropped down to 10.8 volts. Is the 12 volt battery bad and stopping the car from starting? Can I put my jump box on the 12 volt battery and try to start the car?
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My 2006 has a smart key. Today I pushed the button and the lights came on but it didn't start. I got a message in the screen that said something like "the transmission "P" function is not working. Park the car on a flat surface and engage the parking brake" It was parked on a flat surface and the brake was engaged. The car would not turn off. I held the button in and eventually it powered down. I started it again and it would not go into gear. I put the key in the ignition, turned it off and got out of the car and shut the door, it wouldnot turn off and the display (even for the transmission) was not completely lit so the letters weren't formed. We finally got it turned off and then back on and were able to get it in gear and take it to the dealership. They can't figure out what is wrong. Their next step is to diagonse the problem by removing the dashboard and back seat at a cost of $950. If it's a wiring problem it won't cost more than the $950 but if a computer needs to be replaced there will be an additional charge.
I have read lots of posts here but no one mentioned having the dash and rear seat removed to diagnose the problem. The car has 81,000 miles and has not had the 12V battery replaced. I do not believe the dealership is crooked, I believe they don't really know what else to do.
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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Swapped engine last night and now the car won't start and gives me the problem of "transmission lock is abnormal, please park car on a flat surface and apply parking brake."
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When my truck is slowing down my manual transmission makes a knocking sound, but does not make the sound when accelerating. What could be the problem?
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When I tried to start my 2006 Prius ,it wouldn't start and this message appears with the red triangle "there is a problem with the transmission "p" lock mechanism. Park your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake.
It is at a parking lot now because I couldn't start it!
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This morning I was playing around with my 2010 Prius "B" mode - I realize today that when the Prius CVT is in "B" mode the Prius ICE won't turn off even when it is at a complete stop -- instead the ICE runs/idles at a 996 RPM / .20-.40 GPH while stopped in traffic. The coolant temperature (@190F ) doesn't matter, Battery State of Charge (54% soc) doesn't matter. To re-enable the stop-start idle technology - I had to switch the Prius CVT back to "D" mode. I end up burning a bit more fuel on this trip because it took me a while to realize that I was in "B" mode and that the stop start idle technology had disabled in the "B" mode ...
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05 F-350 6L .. Automatic Transmission
When I got the truck I noticed it would slam hard into reverse. Ever since it is taking longer to engage reverse gear and now I have to rev it to 1000 rpms for it to engage with a hard SLAM.
I also noticed that if I do a fast take off, there is a knocking sound coming from drive shaft/differential area (like knock knock knock knock knock then goes away). Then a slight vibration ending at around 30 kph (~20 MPH). There is also some oil leaking from the transmission. I added some mercon sp yesterday - it was a bit low.
My guess for the knocking and vibration is the center support bearings and U-joints. Transmission??? One thing I know I am going to be banging away at that shaft but the transmission problem really scares me.
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So I started hearing a knocking sound from the glove box on start ups recently, and now it's happening while driving too. Sounds like the CD player is knocking, but I've never even put a CD in there.
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2005(its NF model) Sonata 2.4 petrol manual. 75000 miles. On cold start makes knocking sound( sound like Diesel). After coupe of minutes when warms up the knocking sound gone.
Also when i start driving( still on cold engine) i hear that sound only when i let go from gas pedal and only in range of 1800-1500 rpm. When i accelerate i don't hear that knocking sound.
I think is not belt tensioner because sound is much longer than couple of sec.
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My 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 5.4l with 105k miles. I started it up today to go to lunch and it made a knocking sound on start up that lasted maybe 20 seconds. So i shut it off and checked oil. All ok. Started it up again and it knocked but not as long as it did previously. I started to drive and higher in the rpm range before the trans shifts it makes the same knocking sound. Left off the pedal it goes away then rev it again it doesn't make the knock till around 2000rpm mark it I remember correctly. It makes the noise in all gears, parked or driving. It runs great, no power loss or misfire. Could it be a spark plug on the verge of blowing out or is it time for a new motor? I am going to look at it more tonight when I get off work.
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Recently, our 2009 Sonata jumps to relatively high and not normal RPM when start cold (and I don't mean winter-cold; I mean first start in the morning). It jumps to around 2500 rpm for 3-4 seconds before it goes down to the normal 1200-1300 or so for a cold start.
Also, not sure if this is the normal Sonata engine sound, but when we push the accelerator it sounds like the engine is knocking, almost like a whistle of fuel flowing.
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There's a thread similar to this on the front page, but I wouldn't exactly describe my issue as a "rattle".
I've got a good video of the sound it's making here : [URL] .....
It's definitely much louder with the hood up--doesn't seem quite as drastic when sitting in the driver's seat.
I've come across the thread here on the engine rattle/knock fix, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing. Would this be considered a knock?
It's a 2011 Elantra with about 82,000 miles on the odometer. It has an extended warranty on it, in addition to the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty on it, so it's at the dealership this morning.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM GT with 151,000 miles (I have had the car for 6,000). I recently just changed the oil with 5w-30 which is the 3rd oil change I have done and have used the same brand and viscosity. It seems the oil is a little overfilled this time (maybe 1/4-1/3 of an extra quart). I noticed a knocking coming from the engine (closer to bottom of engine than top) on a cold start. It sounds like a rock being knocked against a hard surface. I can only hear the knocking if I am outside of the car, if I am in the car I can't hear it at all. The knocking lasts for maybe 20-30 seconds. If I press the accelerator (when in park) the knocking goes away, and if I let off the accelerator then it comes back. I can't really test to see if the knocking persists while driving since I can't hear it from the cab.
I know I should do all the routine maintenance when getting a used car (spark plugs, etc), but I bought from a friend who put spark plugs on maybe 25,000 miles ago.
I read that maybe I should be using different viscosity of oil in the summer (even though the manual says 5w-30 all year, I live in North Central Nebraska)? Is the knocking maybe due to the slightly overfilled oil? Should I try to drain that excess out? Should I just go ahead and replace the spark plugs and wires as well?
I drive ~750 highway miles a month and hope I can get this car to last a few years. So far it seems pretty good, have only had to change the ECT sensor and thermostat on it, suspension bushings still look good. I just never heard this noise before and it kind of freaked me out. I probably would have never heard it but I just happen to start the car and needed to grab something from the garage.
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