Prius (Gen 2) :: Traction Battery SOC Went To Full Green When Coasting Downhill
Jul 20, 2014
So our car has performed flawlessly since 2005/135K miles. Still getting 55 mpg in the display in the summer, 45 mpg in the winter. Only issue is traction battery SOC quickly goes to full green when coasting downhill, and 1 or 2 purple bars when climbing. In Colorado, this happens a lot. Within a mile or so coasting downhill the SOC is full green. Question is: should I replace the traction battery? Is there any harm to continuing to experience this behavior? When full green, I realize I am using friction braking over regen braking, have actually felt the crossover from regen to the pads, as the SOC goes full green.
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When battery is low (purple bars IN DISPLAY) EV mode is not allowed, obviously; but WHY is it not allowed when the battery is full or nearly full (green bars on display) ?
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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I can park the car with a full charge showing (all green)
leave the car parked for 4 days and when it starts it shows one bar below full green.
put the car in D and go to the corner about 1/4 mile, maybe less and its down to one purple bar then starts to recharge . AC/RADIO ECT ARE OFF
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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I have a 2010 Chrysler 300 Signature Series. I have taken it to 3 mechanics re: this issue but no one can find anything wrong. For work I park in a 5 story parking structure. When I'm leaving and driving our of the structure, "downhill" , I coast slowly between the turns and when I lightly put my foot on the accelerator to drive around the corners/turns there is a loud "clunk" and you can feel a little "jerk" in the car. It happens everyday but the mechanics can't reproduce the sound or the jerk. What this can be? It has happened only twice when on a flat surface, again in the parking lot, when I'm slowly coasting looking for a spot and then give it a little gas to drive forward.. the "clunk" and "jerk".
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Typically after driving for 5 minutes or so my temp gauge is in the middle at 200f. After about 15 min of moderate 35-45 mph driving it went down a notch below the 200 mark after it had reached 200f. I've noticed this happen a few times recently. I did notice that it happens while coasting downhill. I guess i'll be taking it it to my mechanic to take a look.
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This is on a 2010 GTI with 20K km.
I've noticed a buzzing noise coming from the front of the car whenever I coast downhill. Almost sounds like an off-tune radio. Noise gets louder as the car picks up speed, and becomes quieter as I brake. What can it be? I think I was in 3rd gear.
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During an extended drive of the new ride today, we noticed an intermittent vibration when coasting downhill around 60MPH. I popped it in neutral and the vibration disappeared completely. Also, it stayed vibration-free when placed back in Drive, without touching the gas. But as soon as throttle is applied and then you coast again, the vibration reappears.
This points to a condition that only happens when the torque converter is locked, which could be a vibration originating within the transfer case that once coupled to the engine via the locked torque converter uses the engine as a tuning fork, resulting in the vibration. The L-SB-0013-12 AWD Vibration TSB mentions an ECM recalibration, which likely changes the torque converter to unlock whenever you lift off the gas pedal. Is this correct?
I also remember reading about the other TSB, where the "magic expensive fluid" in the transfer case gets changed 3 times in rapid succession. This would address chattering clutches within the transfer case, eliminating vibration at the source vs. masking it by unlocking the torque converter.
We also noticed a misfiring sensation under light throttle conditions at around 40-50MPH. I'm wondering if this is in fact the transfer case clutch chatter issue also...since the 60k spark plug replacement has already been done.
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The following issue has been stumping every mechanic that I have talked too. We have a 1948 Chevy with a 350 ram Jet and 700 R-4 transmission. The water temp while on the road runs about 180, and up to 195 in town. The following is the problem. When coasting down a hill it will periodically quit, like the key was turned off. I have to through it in neutral, start it, and then put in drive while rolling. It never has done it at idle, on straight a ways, or up hill. No, I can’t avoid going down a long hill sometimes.
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My 2010 70,000km car has this problem since yesterday. That was after leaving it at car wash, they call to tell me it's not starting. Display message said to press brakes while starting, which I did, yeah I pressed it very hard.
After online look up and phone call with Toyota Lanka, I myself checked brake light switch in pedal, since brake lights were not turning on but switch was fine.
Then Toyota Lanka engineer came to location and started by long pressing start. Replaced brake light fuse, which was burned.
But still this light is on. I think it could be due to hard pressing of brake. But now car works fine apart from the brake hold function. Will display reset work, then how to do that
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About to hit 130,000 in 20 miles. For the past 10-15k miles, I have been consistently getting under 40 MPG, about 36/37. Only can I get 40+ for a whole tank when I do mostly highway driving. Before, my tanks would average 42-48 mpg.
My battery is also doing some funky things, sometimes when I turn the car on for the first time on a new day, my battery will go from green or blue (the blue right before it hits green) and will literally drop to one or two slivers of red in 15 seconds. I took it in when it first started doing that and they did a software flash or update, something along those lines.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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Right now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
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I've got a 2010 Prius w/ NAV. Yesterday morning, my Prius would not start. When I pressed on the brake, the green "Ready" button would not light up. When I pressed the start button, the NAV screen came on as did some of the dash lights, but the car engine itself was not on. When I hit the start button again, I had a yellow triangle on the left side of my screen that continued to blink.
From reviewing the forum, I believe that the issue is the 12V aux battery. I was able to get my car into maintenance mode, and the 12V battery was reading 8.6V; however, this was after my car had sat in the garage for 10 or so hours. However, by going into maintenance mode, I was again able to get my car to start. This morning, I drove my car to work (about a 15-20 minute drive). After I got to the office, I turned the car off and got back into maintenance mode. This time, it was reading 11.6V on the battery.
Am I correct that this is most likely an issue w/ the 12V battery going bad on me? I purchased my Prius in July 2010, and I have never changed the battery. It sounds like the "typical" lifespan for the battery is right around 4 years, so this seems to make sense.
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I have noticed that my 2008 Prius does not always engage EV mode (after I push the EV button) when the battery is green (nearly fully charged) and speed is well below 45 km/hr. Message displayed is "switching to EV mode is invalid now". So it seems there are factors at play other than the speed and the level of traction battery charge.
What these are? Is battery temperature monitored? Will the operation of the air conditioner affect it? Most times it doesn't but I wonder if under certain circumstances it might.
I use it at times if I am going up a slow speed incline, often from a standing start, knowing that there will be plenty of opportunity to recharge shortly after.
Weather here is pretty warm- around 30C maximum during the day.
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I am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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Curiosity question. I've noticed that on a downhill of a couple miles, especially in "braking" mode or with the cruise control on, the motor/generator and engine are used to keep the speed down and the battery gets charged to the very top quite quickly. That's good!
On a really long downhill, will the motor/generator still be used for braking and the excess electricity discarded to keep from overcharging the battery?
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This is my first year driving my prius during a hot season, and for past 3 weeks my mpg has dropped from 49 to 41-43 mpg, and the reason is my traction battery keeps getting HOT! I can hear the battery cooling fan turning on constantly at max when i reach 20 mph, my car doesn't want to start in EV mode the engine just kicks in no matter how light you press the throttle, the EV motor is not assisting with the engine, the infamous slow rpm drop keep occurring and I when to touch the traction battery case and it its HOT, Ive open up the case to check for any dust on the fan and ducts but so far its spotless. I really wished they place an AC vent for the battery because the back passenger area with full A/C doesn't t get as cold as the front dose which doesn't cool off the battery.
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Why the battery indicator on my v is never full? It's always one bar less...
How is everyone's battery indicator, have you ever get it to fully charged?
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