Prius (Gen 2) :: TPMS Warning Light Comes On And Staying On Constantly - Reset?
Feb 8, 2013
I have a bad sensor in a tire that just had a flat. I have ordered the sensor for the wheel and I am wondering after I install the sensor in the tire will the 'reader' pick it up and reset itself or do I need to go through the programming of the new sensor? At this time the TPMS warning light comes on and flashes for a minute or so before staying on constantly. This tells me it's trying to read the tire sensors but there is a fault, which is the tire sensor where I just had the flat. Costco tells me that sensor reads 78psi, which is incorrect. The fact that the reader is trying to read all the sensors and getting an error makes me think that it might reset itself when the new sensor transmitter is put in the tire? Any chance of this resetting itself or will I need to reprogram the receiver unit?
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A few months ago my TPMS light on my 2012 C2 came on. I adjusted tire pressures and it soon went off again. A week ago it came back on. Again I adjusted pressures, but this time the light is staying on. I rechecked the pressures and all looks good. I tried the reset procedure in the manual to no avail. So what now? Just live with the light being on all the time?
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Wife picked up this basic model for my daily driving to work. It does not have MFD or compass but a simple display menu. Recently I encounter some trouble on tire pressure and TPMS triggered. I was told to reset it by myself. Unfortunately, mine is basic S model and there is no MFD or reset button in glove box. Manual said using MFD. Any way to reset without going to dealership on Tiguan S model?
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Switched my wheels at Discount Tires/America's Tires and for some reason my TPMS warning light won't go away. It's been more than 24hrs and I've driven over 100 miles, even put the tires to 42psi but still the warning light won't go away. The shop did rebuilt the TPMS due to the wheel change but it's nothing out of the ordinary so I am not sure what's going on here.
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TPMS light comes on. Properly inflated all four tires, then attempted to reset the TPMS system. The procedure says to hold the button until the light blinks three times. Having done this in the past, I know that the light should stop blinking when the reset button is released. Now, the light continues to blink after releasing the reset button. When in regular drive mode, the button is continuously on.
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Just had a flat tire. Was in a construction zone on an interstate so had to drive on the flat for a half a mile to get to a pullover spot. Had tires replaced at a Sears auto (only place open). But now can't reset the light on the dash. One thread said to push the reset button under the steering column while starting the car, but that doesn't work.
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Recently I have noted the SRS light has stayed on constantly -- I thought perhaps because I placed a heavy box of books on the front passenger seat - and it was telling me that I needed to fasten the seat belt. The light went off initially but not too many days later -- the SRS light came on and has stayed on ever since. I had it "diagnosed" at the dealer and was told that the OPDS sensor has failed. It was explained that this is something "electrical" and if not working properly that none of the airbags will deploy if needed in an accident. However, since the "diagnosis" -- and driving my car home and on an errand or two -- now I see that the SRS light is off. Did the "diagnosis" with the computer actually "reset the SRS light" and is it possible that my OPDS sensor is actually "okay and not in need of an expensive repair"? I would like to know that my airbags are going to work -- in the event of a serious impact - would running another diagnosis confirm that the OPDS sensor is faulty or confirm that "all is working well with the SRS system". I know the dealer doesn't care -- if he takes my car if for a repair that is no longer needed - but I do care.
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My 08 Prius developed a hiccup yesterday. While driving down the interstate there was an occasional red flash from the dash. It would come and go so fast that by the time I could actually process it and focus it was gone. I had to stop by the dentist office as I was ready to walk out the door I heard a car in the parking lot with the horn/alarm sounding. I mentioned to the folks in the waiting room that someone alarm was going off. A lady replied that green Prius with the bike rack!
Sure enough it was mine! I was unable to find any causal factor. I left there and at my next stop, the horn/alarm started sounding just as I walked through the entrance door to Home Depot back to the parking lot. This time the Door Ajar/Open light on the dash was lit. I opened and closed all the doors and hatch. The Door Ajar light was still on I then manually manipulated all the door switches and opened/closed/slammed the hatch several times. No Joy I drove home.
About the only thing I was able to find was that it was probably the hatch, the switch is sealed within the locking/latch mechanism and that I could simply just unplug it. So I began troubleshooting.
After removing the rear hatch/floor, plastic bin, etc. I removed the plastic cover from around the latch (above the bumper not on the hatch lid), then removed the longer plastic cover that runs along the same area and provides the cover for the area between the rubber gasket and the inside of the hatch/floor area. Now I was able to see the latch mechanism and associated wiring (looking down toward the spare tire well). I also had the hatch light turned on (left side) which was easier to see than the Door/Ajar light on the dash.
I manually tripped the latch and the light flickered. I pressed down on the latch (hoping to put more pressure on the internal switch)…the light continued to flicker. Using a 10mm socket, I removed the latch, wiring retainers and disconnected the plug. The electrical plug, located about 8†to the left of the latch has 4 wires. The two on the bottom power the electrically operated latch and the two on top go to the Door Ajar switch (the one that is inside the latch assembly).
I noticed a little bit of corrosion and discoloration on one of the male pins (the plug that is connected to the latch end of the wiring). The female plug (connected to the car end of the wiring) also had some discoloration.
I plugged them back together and found that as I moved the wires/plug the light would flicker and change sometimes turning off. I unplugged it and connected my ohm meter (using small jumper wires with clips) to the two top (male) pins on the switch end of the plug. The switch tested fine. I even tested it with my homemade battery powered continuity light (wanting to test the switch under a load). I also wiggled the wires going into the plug itself, Perfect, no problems here! So, I determined the problem was truly with the plug itself. I also jumped the two female connectors with a short piece of wire (simulating the switch) and the light would come on (as it should have). OK, plug problem confirmed!
I cleaned the pins (both male and female), applied some dielectric compound and plugged it up. The light remained off for a few seconds then started flickering again! I could even hear a slight hissing sound coming from the plug (never a good sign). I tried tweaking the male pins (bending them slightly trying for a better connection) No Joy.
I clipped the wires (only the top two) from each end of the plug (red & white/black stripe wires coming from the latch).
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Where to begin, I've checked things i thought could be the issue but aren't. I am having a constant e-brake light on which as you know emits the loud and annoying beep sound. What I've checked and done:
I checked the brake fluid, its fully topped off. I also removed the ebrake switch (the thing under it that when depressed pushes the button and turns the light off) and just crossed the wires to complete the circuit (this does the same as the button essentially) before buying a new one to see if that was the issue, which is doesn't seem to be. I had my buddy run vagcom which turned up no codes that SHOULD make this issue occur. I even popped in a new brake light switch which didn't work.
At the same time of this happening my car is making ZERO boost at all. Is it a coincidence? I don't know... it's just weird they would both happen at the same exact time. Again, no codes are showing up. Checked lines and didn't see any potential boost leaks. What to do.
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Just recently started getting what started as an intermittent air bag light that is now on constant. I seem to be getting a code 33.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6 the airbag light in the cluster is constantly staying on it does not flash at all. The only threads I can find are for the airbag light flashing which mine does not do. The passenger airbag light is not burnt out so that's not the problem. Where to start looking.
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I recently had new tires installed on my 2008 Prius and after the tires were installed she drove better than ever and I drove about 150 miles across Florida with no issues what so ever. But when I went for a drive this evening, after about 30 minutes of driving my TPMS light blinked for about a minute then stayed solid for about 3 minutes but then went out. When I got out of the car all the tires looked okay, I didn't have a gauge on me and I will check the pressures tomorrow.
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So naturally I thought a nail had punctured a tire leading to a slow leak. When I got home I found no nail and the tire pressure on all four tires even but down to about 36psi.
I refilled to my normal of 40/38 and reset the TPMS with the button below the steering wheel. The light stayed on for a minute or two of driving then turned off and stayed off for my commute to work.
What I think probably happened is that I reduced from 42/40 to 40/38 recently without a TPMS reset. Then this morning the temperature outside was 55F and about 65F in my garage. When I left the garage at 5:20AM the TPMS light was off. I drive about 2 mile to the gym each morning and park my C for about an hour. This morning, when I got back in the car the tires had cooled to 55F and I guess that was enough to reduce the pressure far enough to trip my warning light.
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I have a 2006 camry xle v6 and recently my wife got a oil change and after a week the maint.required light stays on how do you reset this they must have forgot?
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n the 2012 Prius how would you reset the low tire warning light once the tires are brought up to proper pressure?
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No luck using the search option. Can I reset (get the faulty wheel onboard light to turn off ) the system myself through the learn sequence? Haven't been able to achieve that result yet.
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Last week during a cold spell in New Orleans the TPMS light went on in my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I checked all of the tires, 2 were slightly low and I added air. However, the light is still on and it has been several days.
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My tire monitor pressure light comes on and stays on. I've tried to reset it no luck...
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We just purchased a 2007 Santa Fe Limited with the 3.3 V6 and AWD. It was in remarkable shape with 137k on the clock and everything appears to be in working order. Our only complaint is the TPMS light. This light seems to have a mind of its own. All tires are inflated properly and it's not really that cold here on Long Island these past few weeks, but the TPMS light comes on every now and then.
The first time it came on, my wife was driving on a bridge that had construction going on. It went off by itself a few minutes later. The light came on again the next time she passed the same spot and again it went off on its own. I've been reading about RF interference with the sensors and I think this is what is happening on the bridge.
Saturday we passed a fire house and the light came on again. We parked across the street and came back after 2 hours to find the light still on and remained on for the ride home and still on the next day. We had the Bluetooth adapter plugged into the cigarette lighter the whole time as we were using Pandora thru the factory radio. As a goof just to see what would happen, I removed the adapter from the plug and the TPMS light went off a couple of minutes later. I've used the adapter before and it was fine. Could it be it was interfering with TPMS once the system was tripped by the EMI?
How common is this and is there any way to diagnosis this with a scan tool, etc?
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First cold day of the year today and naturally my TPMS light came on. Checked the pressures with my own gauge, all at 34 psi. Inflated them all to 38psi and the TPMS light is still on. Drove a little ways - still on. Checked pressures again - still 38psi. I had this happen once before in mid-winter two years ago and I can't remember what I had to do to reset the TPMS light. Mine isn't one of the ABS/ESP systems so I don't have a reset button - I need to do something with the VAGCOM but I don't recall what.
What's weird is that the TPMS threshold should be 7psi per wheel shouldn't it? And my light came on when it was only 4psi down. Is there somewhere I can check and find out what the ECU thinks the threshold is - again with my VAGCOM?
2010 Tiguan 4MO
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2009 Lexus ES ... Just put my summer tires/wheels back on and how do I make the low tire pressure light to go off? These wheels have sensors that were registered at the dealer when purchased ... Do I have reset the system by deflating to the trigger point or should the computer remember the data from last fall when I took them off?
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