Prius (Gen 2) :: Spark Plug Porcelain Broken Up - Engine Is Causing Rattle Sound
Feb 10, 2014
So I was changing my spark plugs and 3 of 4 went smooth. but one of them was very tough to get out. after a little while it came out, but.... porcelain was broken up. looked down the hole and saw some pieces. Vacuumed it up with a small hose. saw the pieces come into the vacuum, but i don't think i got them all.
Started the engine and made a terrible rattle sound. turned it off and researched a bit. one hit was on here from a few years back, saying the car ran rough for a sec and then cleared up. Hoping it was kicked out the exhaust. I started it up let it run and it cleared up and idled smooth.
Drove it today and seems fine. Slight click noise when accelerating but not sure if that was there before or I am just being paranoid now. Called some places and they all said same...could have cleared through exhaust, stuck in catalytic converter, damaged the interior walls etc etc.
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Experienced this (Loud engine knock or rattle noise) regarding the service bulletin (T-SB-0010-12)? If so, did you take your vehicle in for service?
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My son has a 03 mustang GT. He called and said it was making a loud clicking sound. I investigated and it appeared to have a exhaust leak, but I couldn't feel where it was coming from. I started tearing down until I got to the plugs. One of them blew out if the head. I was shocked. Have you heard of this in a car? I'd heard the Ford trucks had problems with the plugs blowing out. Its fixed and running like a champ now.
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My truck is a 1990 F-150 with the 351. I was replacing the spark plugs last night, got it all wrapped up and everything squared away, and after firing the truck up I noticed a ticking noise. It was not there before I replaced the old plugs, and it is not at all loud. I can hardly hear it with the hood closed. It appears to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. It does not misfire when its idling, and it revs smoothly. However, while driving it is noticeably choppy and feels sluggish.
Any thoughts on what it could be? I used dielectric grease on the boots, but I did not replace the plug wires themselves, or the distributor cap. I am probably going to replace the plug wires today though, because the plugs I took out were not in good condition and its been a bit too long since I replaced them last. Its also worth noting this engine is less than years old. This is a frustrating problem because I've replaced the spark plugs on her before, so I'm not quite sure what I did wrong this time.
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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Continuing from this thread which I accidentally posted in the "main" forum.
I had trouble unscrewing the spark plug even though the advertised torque is only 13 ft-lb and the car is only 13K miles 1.5 year old.
I googled "spark plug stuck" and read some posts on line.
Lots of horror stories of broken spark plugs and stripped threads - big $ to repair.
[URL]
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I have a '99 Rodeo 2.2L, 2wd with 60k. Time for new plugs and wires. Any engine diagram? I haven't found the Distributor Cap.. AND... my Haynes Repair Manual mentions coil packs... when I went to AutoZone for Spark Plug wires, they didn't say anything about coil packs.
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Found the answer... it's the brake booster pump...
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No response to the buttons that have green leds glowing no obstruction in HUD output area appears broken, so have the 8 year 100000 Warranty,I would expect that to be covered.
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01 vw passat 1.8, spark plug hole number 2 is full of liquid possibly anti freeze, head gasket looks wet. Water pump is pumping and thermostat is opening, car overheated. Also my engine clicks so bad it sounds like a diesel when i am below 1500 rpms but above with more oil pressure it's fine, I have been told camshaft.
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I wanted to no why my car has water on the spark plugs not a lot though couple drips on the threads and on the part u gap(numbers 3 and 5 both are side by side), the oil looks like a light chocolate shack, it also spills a lot of water out the exhaust pipe. sort of like its being sprayed out non stop. i haven't did a compression test but all plugs are removed I am thinking its a head gasket. And the rest of the spark plugs look good just numbers 3 and 5 were wet.
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Today I drove my 2006 G2 Prius with 59,000 miles to the park and had the windows down. I climbed a hill for a good while that had the engine under load and there was a concrete wall beside me, and I could hear a very very faint metallic-like rattle. I mentioned it to my partner who listened and said he couldn't even hear it, so maybe it is just me.
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Experienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
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I'm trying to replace the spark plugs of my 2006 Prius, but the deep well 5/8 socket attached to a 2 in extender just turns loose, as if it does not fit in the top of the spark plug. I tried also 3/4 and 13/16 but those don't even fit in the spark plug well. I tried in another spark plug to the same result. Problem to replace to spark plugs?
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How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
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I have a 2002 prius that threw a spark plug and loosened the coil pack. The mechanic just reinstalled the plug and tightened the coil pack and said it was fine. Why it would throw a spark plug?? It was running fine, no warning lights, i just heard an unusual slight noise and opened the hood to check it out, and notice the loose coil pack over the first spark plug
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I have a 2007 Prius with ~180000, which runs great. The mechanic shop I used for oil change suggest me to change spark plug because they are dirty. After the change, I found I cannot step on the gas pedal too hard for acceleration. The car will hesitate, choking or die if I try to accelerate too fast. But if I step on the gas pedal gently, and let it reach the desired speed in a slower way, it has no issue. I went back to the shop and they replaced with another set of 4 plugs, and no improvement. I checked air intake tube and it looks no leak, but really old. Other than that, the car runs great.
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I have a small problem, the dealer that serviced my car just told me that my water pump was leaking and I was low on coolant. I can't remember when was the last time I checked the coolant level but when the dealer top off the coolant, he nearly used the entire bottle. Needless to say, I believe the radiator was pretty low on coolant.
Now I've never noticed a high temperature warning lamp or ever broken down. Today at 125,000 miles, I went to change my spark plugs. The 1st plug to the far left as you are facing the car has oil in the spark plug. This is freaking me out, could my engine be damaged from the low coolant?
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Not sure if there is a post for this, but I could not find one.
I recently replaced my cabin air filter in my '12 PiP. When I went to put the little door back on, the clip that holds the door into place on the left (not the "click" side), broke right off of the housing.
I have the piece, but not sure I can glue this back on with any success.
Do I have to take the whole dash apart to get the housing out to replace? It really is the smallest little plastic piece.
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I got to work this morning and had about 3.5 miles left with the EV. Tried to go home and nothing works. I could not open the door. I thought it was my remote battery so I Changed the battery and still nothing works. I get the Orange caution light on the dash and a clicking sound from the engine area . No lights come on. Nothing.
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so i've had my 337 for a couple months now and when i first got it i found 2 broken vacuum hoses that were causing misfires. once i got those replaced my CEL went off and seemed to be running fine other than from time to time when i started it up my idle would be around 1.2k rpms and then after a couple miles itd settle down to 750-800 rpms but it wasn't rock solid, so obviously there is still something wrong.
on my drive home tonight from work i was in the mood for some spirited driving but when i'd hit the gas i could feel some hesitation through the powerband at wide open throttle. when i got home i turned it off, and started it back up to see if it was idling funny and when it ignited the rpms jumped to almost 2k and immediately fell back down to 1.2k.
My thoughts are its either a vacuum leak again, bad/dirty maf, dirty throttle body, or a boost leak.
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