Prius (Gen 2) :: Smoke Filled In The Car - Battery Might Exploded
Mar 9, 2016
One of the battery module got exploded in my 2007 Prius with 160k miles on it while I was driving the road. I had a red triangle appeared few weeks ago, so I knew that I need to change the HV battery. However, I did not expect that it got exploded like this. I heard a loud 'BANG' noise from back and had a burnt smell. I immediately pull over my car (I could drive 0.1 miles more to find a proper space) and had my car towed to nearby Toyota dealership. I did not actually see the module exploded, however, from the threads here and there, I could guess what was happening.
I got a call from the Toyota today that they had smoke filled in a car when they started a car so they did not go any further from there. They called me because they need to pull out the battery to inspect if there are other problems underneath the battery.
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I am considering purchasing a 2010 as an upgrade from my current 2008, I have been reading recently as these last 3 days of constant rain made me check my current one for leaks and like normally the battery tray was filled with water.
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I have a Prius C One. I shut the car off and filled up the fuel tank. Then I started the car, and I shut it off and then restarted it. The gas gauge did not register that I filled it up. It stayed at 160 miles, that was the reading it was on when I stopped for gas. Now I'm wondering how to correct it.
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Fill up the tank when I had 20miles to go but the figure is not changing, still going down, I'm at 9 miles.
2010 gen3.
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I been having this issue when I drive to 0 miles left on gauge, then fill it at gas station and it clicks like its full, but shows only 8.5-9 gallons? And fuel gauge shows 1 bar missing from full.
2011 66k miles
Took to dealer and they replaced gauge module and was ok for 2 fill ups but now its doing it again.
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I've got a 2001 Prius with a minor but annoying problem. It pops a P0440 code from time to time, always shortly after the gas tank is filled. Driveability/fuel economy are unaffected, and no other codes are ever triggered.
I checked for a cracked hose nipple on the "tank retainer", as posted by forum member kmc6566, but the unit on my car looked ok.
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Walked out to my car last night and my mirror cap was shattered in pieces on the ground, little textured plastic lip around the glass on the ground, and the glass hanging from the heat wires. I haven't looked at it too hard since it was dark and I had to work this morning, but it appears that the plastic lip and the glass are undamaged, however there may be damage to the clips. I have called around to some salvage yards and no one seems to have one in stock. What the cheapest way to get a clean, painted mirror on my door is? Mirror was destroyed, need new one.
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About a month ago i installed the rear fog in my 06 TDI. I used all the proper stuff ( VW wire, 1156 bulb)
Well yesterday i finally got to use it while driving on the interstate during the reminisce of tropical storm Barry. well all remain good until i stopped off at the mall with my wife, got back in the truck and proceed back home when MFI prompts me to check lights and little icon lights up... well today i check it and its the rear fog. The bulb had melted into the red lens and exploded.
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2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer and the back hatch window exploded on my son when he closed it. Glass shattered everywhere even on him. I was told there was a recall on this and ford has stated they were replaced but previous owner says they didn't have replaced. How do I know the difference in the recall hinges and new ones? If the hinges were replaced why would the window shatter like this?
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So I am on my way home after an honest 8, and I make it a mile down the road and goose the old girl a little off a stop light. Well next thing I know we have smoke rolling out under the hood, well it turns out the "smoke" was r134 refrigerant. The guy that recharged it said that the compressor failed and that its common with retrofits because 134a runs at a higher pressure.
Now I don't need a/c, and I might just leave it as is, but it would be nice to have the old girl working 100%. It also turns out that the front seal of the transmission is leaking, I am debating whether or not to just have the transmission rebuilt. it shifts fine but its gotta come out anyway. Its a 700r4 and the trans guy recommends stronger 3-4 clutches and a shift kit to make the holding pressure higher.
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Looking for a complete exploded parts diagram for the front axle on a 1999 4X4 F-250?? (If possible from the wheels inward.) Having some issues and really need this.
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2002 VW golf with monsoon radio, 150,000miles. Was driving, volume went out and smoke came out of tape player. next day battery was dead. had car jump started and battery was dead by end of day. tried to jump start again but battery did not charge. took to mechanic and said it was bad battery. battery replaced and car worked fine for 2 days (stereo still dead). car didnt start on 3rd day, mechanic now says alternator is fine but car had multiple short circuits and need new dashboard and other parts. looking at over $1100 in repairs, asked if i could just unplug stereo and run car and he said no. am I better off junking this car?
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I replaced a battery on a 1998 jeep grand Cherokee v6. It started and ran fine, but then in my infinite wisdom, I decided to remove the negative battery cable with the engine running to test the alternator. Some smoke started coming from the back of the engine, so I immediately killed it. It wasn't running for more than 5 seconds. When I started it again, it faltered, but the second time it started fine and ran fine, a little more smoke came out but stopped soon. it smelled like burning oil. We drove it around the block with no problems. I know it wasn't the alternator that was smoking because that's not where it was coming from, and I doubt it was the ecu because then it wouldn't run.
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Some background, my truck has been sitting in the garage for a good month and I haven't started it. Been putting in 6 days a week for over 2 months at work, 60+ hour weeks. Today, I start the truck, it immediately dies. Successive attempts same result, blue smoke out the exhaust. I kept it running by revving it up but then it dies again. It's the original battery, 5+ years old now. MM shows 12v at rest, drops while cranking. I put the charger on the battery for a bit while I came inside to ask this, it's on trickle 2A and its at a 7 on the dial, and it goes to zero when fully charged.
I've been thinking I'll need to replace the battery before winter, but I'm hoping it's just that since its discharged that's why it won't stay running? Any thoughts? I have had zero issues with this truck but having a company truck over a year now, it sees very limited action. 2010 5.4 with just a tick over 40K, oil is good, air filter is clean and free of obstructions. We do live in the woods and have critters that hang out in the garage, like squirrels and chipmunks but I'm not seeing any evidence of chewed wires that I can see. It's in the garage and using a droplight I don't see anything obvious. Maybe it's as simple as I have to take the work truck and get a new battery I hope...
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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If my traction battery has plenty of 'juice' in it, and my 12v battery is dead....is there any way to 'jump' the 12 volt battery with the traction battery to get the car started?
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I was installing an aftermarket nav system on prius 08, because 2 hours working with dome lights on I have to jump start, now battery doesn't show bars is blank no mpg status, a message appeared check a/c connections.
I check connections and NOTHING avg mpg got stuck... enter to service menu shows 13.6 volts while running and the car is running fine! just the bars doesn't appear not even mpg avg
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My 2012 Prius v has a traction battery gauge beside the fuel gauge. The gauge has never shown that the battery is full. It appears as if the indicator is 2 bars below full at all times. Is this by design or should the gauge look full with bars to the very top after charging on a long trip?
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I wanna know if I can take a regular car battery 500-600 cca to replace the old aux battery.
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I thought nothing of this before and just chalked it up to being at a gas station and the cold weather. But this is my 3rd fillup with this car and every single time i've smelled gas.
i just filled up my tank tonight and there was a gas smell, which went away after a couple of miles driving. Should i be worried? I mean smelling gas is never a good thing. Car is 2011 camry v6, 36k miles on it.
some have said its overfilling of gas, but i let off once it clicks and do not keep filling. Bought it used so not sure if previous owner liked to "top" it off.
is there anything i can check, i.e. fuel lines under car seats?
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