Prius (Gen 2) :: Slight Rumble And Driver Side CV Joint Moves
Apr 11, 2011
I noticed a slight rumble in my 05 Prius (120,000 miles) a few months about. I start noticing the noise around 40mph and at high speeds(65-70 ISH) It goes away. While poking around tonight I found that the back drivers tire is wore a lot more than the right. Also I wiggled the drivers side CV joint and it moves in and out. Also there seemed to be a little "gunk" built up around it. I'm taking it in this weekend for a transmission fluid change and going to have them look at it.
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Today I noticed a oil spot on the ground under my car about the size of a silver dollar. It had been sitting for about 24hrs. It was super thick, almost like honey. It seems like its coming from above the dr side cv joint. It doenst look like transmission fluid at all though, it has no red tinge to it whatsoever. This was the first time I noticed it, I'll try to take some pics of it.
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I've just finished installing Driver Side Puddle Lights just under the mirror. I still haven't coded it yet.
[URL]..................... I ran into a problem:
As I want to use the electrical mirrors to adjust my driver side mirror, passenger side mirror moves too. Is it possible that these faults caused by not coded ECU?
I connected ground wire of my LED to blue and black cable connected to the mirror and ran another wire from unit 10 in 16 pin door connector to live wire from my LED.
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My RX350 is over 4yrs old with 105k km on it. I notice lately when I drive off the seat moves back a bit and when braking hard it moves forwards. It is about quarter of an inch movement but it is noticeable. I guess it is not under warranty now. I looked under the seat but can not find where this is coming from, I am assuming it must be a loose bolt that needs to be tightened.
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Looking for a good DIY video on removing drivers side cv joint, my joint broke and I removed it however the inner joint inner spline is still in the trans, there is a c clip on the shaft of the new cv joint that I'm assuming is holding it in. I just don't know if pressure is all I need to pull it out.
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Just to clarify, I've got a UK spec B5 wagon, manual, 1.8T (AEB, I believe) and it's a 2000. Last night when I was driving home, either my CV joint or axle on the driver (right) side blew out. Needless to say, I'm going to replace my axles or just the outer joints, but I've been shopping around and I'll find parts that will fit an A4 with a 5 speed and AEB but not a Passat, or parts that fit strictly AUG or ATW engine codes. How would I go about finding which axle will actually fit my car?
Here's a video so you can hear the noise : [URL] .....
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I have a friend with a problem. He has a 2007 Explorer Limited that when he hits a bump the drivers side power seat moves all the way back.
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My Ex did this to me a few months ago 2 days in a row and then didn't do it again until now...
Battery is almost new and alternator charges fine but every once in a while when it sits it drains the battery. I can hear an audible click and rumble coming from the front end behind the drivers side headlight under the air intake.
I've got a boost coming but I'd like to be able to start her up again to go to work later.
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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I noticed while driving my car there was a unusual rumble or grinding sound coming from my drivers side front wheel well. I get out and look I see a bunch of Fluid all over my wheel well. I look around turn my wheel around and see this fluids all on my rotors and suspension. Ive noticed couple weeks back the boots on the struts were ripped in two pieces from deteriorating or dry rotting (this was on both sides) and ive also been hearing some odd squeaking sound for over 15k miles every once in a while going over big bumps or train tracks. Struts go out at only 80k miles on their corolla? Yeah struts do usually lose their life around 60-80k miles but I've never seen them leak around that many miles. Is this a common issue?
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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My 2000 Lexus GS 300 has done the following three times when I've been inching forward by lightening on the brake (not touching the gas pedal): slight engine surge moves the car forward and the brakes don't work. I have to throw the car into "Park" to stop. Had it checked each time (twice by my local shop and once by the dealer) and they find nothing amiss. These three incidents have occurred several weeks apart, during cold weather. My car has 98,000 miles on it and has been very well maintained.
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I started to notice a slight vibration coming from my front end on the drivers side last week and now is pretty loud. It increases with acceleration, fades slightly when turning left, and goes away almost entirely when turning right. Tie rods seem fine. The inner and outer cv boots are torn but have been that way for some time.
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For over a month I was having a slight rattle coming from the driver's side.
Today I found that my door panel on one end is coming off. I can literally bend it and look inside
Not sure how to take the top half (where the wood trim is) off without breaking any remaining clips.
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2008 Honda Civic LX. The car has approximately 37,000 miles on it, most of which are highway miles. I live about 400 miles from home and thus, most of those miles have been accumulated from the 4 years of me driving back and forth to school during breaks, etc.
Recently, I've noticed a slight squeak from the front driver's side wheel. It's rhythmic with the rotation of the car and is only audible with the window down (you can't hear it when the window is up). It's most prevalent at really slow speeds, when the car is just rolling forward and then dissipates as I accelerate.
I just had it in for service about two months ago, the usual stuff: I had the oil changed and the tires rotated at the local Honda dealership. I still have the inspection paperwork they did on it and everything checks out. The brakes were shown to be just fine (7mm on the front two) and it's also not coming from the engine itself, thus ruling out the belt, etc.
To make things even more complicated the noise comes and goes. Last night I drove around trying to isolate it but found no consistency. It started right away as I drove away from my apartment, but then randomly went away only to reappear again, this time barely audible as I parked.
Other details: I park the car outside, and I live up in Northern Minnesota. It's gotten cold recently, and with the wind we get up here the dust really gets kicked up. The noise just started appearing last weekend as well.
I've done some preliminary research, and would hope that after 37,000 miles the car's front bearing isn't going bad. My game plan for today was to get it washed, in case there's some build up on the wheel, and then try and spray it with 4D-40.
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I got pics, will upload as soon as I'm off work. But anyways, there's a small rust spot on the drivers side hinge, as well as a small spot on the passenger side rear door hinge. It seems rather hard for me to believe considering I'm the guy who periodically washes their car, and waxes all the door jambs and under the hood.
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04-V8 - little over 85k. Timing belt replaced recently.
There is a small oily leakage in the very front drivers side under the bumper. Its in front of the tire and as described under the bumper. I see some hoses in that area from underneath and a bit of oil-ly leakage from under the hood looking down into that same area.
So, what lurks behind the front bumper in front of the driver side front wheel? The oil leak seems like light oil, but ... are the oil cooler lines there?
Are the power steering lines there? Asking because I did recently have to fill the power steering reservoir from suddenly near dry (as far as I know) so that is a suspect. And yes, I filled it with the right stuff (pentosin).
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My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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I picked up a 2014 F150 with the EcoBoost engine a couple weeks back and while so far I love it, I can't get over how quiet it is. So, to my question, has anyone done anything with the exhaust to get some of that truck sound back. A slight rumble on acceleration would be nice to have and maybe get some gains out of it, but thats minimal.
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I have a 99 f150 5.4 and i am pretty sure I have a cop issue. I have changed a few over the past few years and this one is acting about the same. The other day i felt a slight stumble but it went right away and drove fine. Well after heavy rain all night i went to take the kids to school and it was stumbling and acting like it was not firing on all cylinders. CEL came on and got the code read at the auto part store. Well driving it home it just cleared and drove fine. So i checked the #6 plug and changed the boot on the coil but all the same symptoms came back. It is the original coil so i am figuring that it is bad.
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