Prius (Gen 2) :: Right Bearing Causing Noises
May 27, 2012
Had my front bearings replaced on 2005 prius about 1 month ago as the right side bearing was making all the usual noises of a bad bearing...After about 3 weeks the right side again started to make a low humming noise but not quite the same as the original problem bearing, this time there was no change in noise on wide sweeping turns like there was with the original problem...Took it back to the mechanic and had him ride with me and he immediately diagnosed that the bearing had failed again, even though the noise was different....He replaced the bearing on Friday, I drove it home with no apparent noises, put maybe 100 miles on it Saturday and noticed again a low hum starting on the right side...Now here on Sunday it is a very loud hum/growl with some shimmery coming from that side...I'm guessing it's not a bearing problem.
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I bought a 2008 5.4l xlt about a year ago now. For the first time I took it on a trail that had a little mud. With my incredible wisdom, I decided to park the truck rather than wash it off. The next day the engine started making weird noises when I turned the steering wheel. After washing the truck it still made noises so I opened the hood. THE ENTIRE engine compartment is covered in a serious amount of mud. I feel that this has to be what started the noises when I turn. Mud dried in the wrong place? The noise sounds like a whine and its pitch matches the engine rpm until over 2500 where I don't really hear it anymore. Is there a way to flush the engine compartment?
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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I just had brakes redone at Nissan on a 2003 Pathfinder. Nissan said that when the last brake job was done (by Firestone), the bearings were overtightened causing "scoring" from friction. Nissan says there is a chance that this may have weakened the metal from repeated heating and cooling over about 40,000 miles.
Nissan said that it's unlikely, but possible, that a break can cause the wheel to fall off while I'm driving. I took it to Firestone who looked at it (see photos attached) and said it's just normal wear for a car with 140,000 miles... nothing to worry about. I'm a bit freaked out about notion that a wheel can fall off while I'm driving.
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Today while I was out driving in the country, my 2001 Prius with 140,900 miles pulled an error code. The red triangle popped up on the dash along with a "Check Engine" light and the car symbol with the "!" through it came on the MFD. I was able to get it back home safely by the way. The car had a weak 12v battery as it is, and I have been planning on replacing it but haven't gotten around to it yet. What I want to know though is, can a weak 12v battery cause those warning lights?
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I replaced all the bearings and put in a rebuilt transmission and still have bearing like noise , seems like the front, directly increasing with speed . Same in neutral, no change with turning or breaking. Getting worse over the past few months.
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Is it true that a going from the OEM tire on the genII prius to larger 195/60/15 can cause or increase instability issues. I would think the point is to have wider tires to improve the stability...
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When engaging the engine braking ( B ) function on the Prius IV, do the brake lights come on to warn the driver behind me that I'm slowing down?
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So I was changing my spark plugs and 3 of 4 went smooth. but one of them was very tough to get out. after a little while it came out, but.... porcelain was broken up. looked down the hole and saw some pieces. Vacuumed it up with a small hose. saw the pieces come into the vacuum, but i don't think i got them all.
Started the engine and made a terrible rattle sound. turned it off and researched a bit. one hit was on here from a few years back, saying the car ran rough for a sec and then cleared up. Hoping it was kicked out the exhaust. I started it up let it run and it cleared up and idled smooth.
Drove it today and seems fine. Slight click noise when accelerating but not sure if that was there before or I am just being paranoid now. Called some places and they all said same...could have cleared through exhaust, stuck in catalytic converter, damaged the interior walls etc etc.
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I've recently started to have issues where when I get up over 55/60 mph the traction control will engage and limit the acceleration of my 2009 prius. I took the car into my local Toyota dealership and they claim it is because of the size tire I have.
I recently purchased a set of Hankook Optimo H727 replacement tires. After having done my research (mostly on these forums) I decided to go with the P195/60R15 tire size. Now I have several reasons to believe that the dealership has misdiagnosed the issue:
1. There are loads of people on this site who have installed 195 size tires (and larger) without issue as far as I can tell.
2. The issue did not begin immediately after installing the new tires, but rather a couple months later.
3. My brother installed the same exact tires on his 2005 Prius and does a lot more freeway driving than I do and has not had an issue.
4. My understanding from reading here is that in some other countries Priuses come with 195 size tires stock.
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I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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Our 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
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Our Prius is a second generation from 2006. Over the weekend the right front hub bearing was replaced. This was their diagnosis after we reported hearing "humming" noise from the front side of the car. They did a test drive around the block and they said that this was the problem. True enough, the noise went away after they have done the procedure. Unfortunately, the ! ABS VSC lights are now constantly on. I noticed this when I drove the car going home (about a mile away). I reset the jumper pins 4 and 13 on the DLC together with pumping the brake pedals.
This immediately solved the problem with the lights. They were off now and everything was back to normal. I then did a test drive, and lo and behold, when I hit on the brakes, no matter how soft, the car jerks as if the ABS was engaging. This happened twice before the ! ABS and VSC lights again went off. As soon as the error lights went back on, braking became normal once more - no more jerky and intermittent braking.
I then drove home and did the jumper procedure again to make sure that the first attempt wasn't just a fluke. I had the same experience as before, car braking became intermittent and jerky. The ! ABS and VSC lights again turned on - and right after, braking became normal.
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I thought I'd share, my rear wheel hub was very bad, wheel wobble when shook about a width of a quarter (found by the tire shop during tire purchase).
Shops were charging $450-$600 to do the work, however the part by itself is a bearing / hub combo, no need to separate the two, the dealer price for the part is around $250 and the OEM grade from Autozone was $90.
I didn't want to fork out that much money to do the work that looked simple, I was just concerned about the hammering to get the hub off the car.
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Need to change an 02 front wheel bearing. Can the the bearing be replaced without taking hub off? It slides or presses in.
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What are the different noises you hear little while after switching off the car? Also after keeping the car switched off for a while when you open the driver door there is a noise of fluid being pumped, same happens little while after shutting down the car.
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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
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During the 120000km (75000mi) service my Toyota local service said I have a noisy Prius and that the sound is from the belt tensioner bearing.
As I bought it used and always heard the same sound. I've made a video ....
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I was going to put on some lowering spring on my prius last night but i couldnt figure out how to get the top bearing off. Looking for pictures or a guide or something?
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2005 with 106K miles, New Michelin Defender XT tires
I had both front hub bearings go out on me recently and replaced them with a Moog and a Timken unit (2 weeks apart). After replacement, I still notice what sounds like dry bearing or gear noise at 35-38mph, starting at about 25. There could also be tire noise mixed in. I don't drive this car normally, so it's hard for me to figure if this is normal noise for this car. I know the tires and low sound deadening on a Prius makes it much noisier than other cars, but even so, I just want to make sure there is no well known issue with other components. When the car gets up to highway speeds, that noise is masked by regular road and engine noise and the overall noise level is about what you would expect for a car like this. The noise at low speed remains the same whether in straight line or in a turn, or with the engine in neutral.
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