Prius (Gen 2) :: Reseed Is Needed To Cancel Previous Fobs, Car Was Programmed To?
May 26, 2016
I had my wallet and key stolen and my spare has somehow gone missing too. A dealership has quoted me half hour to program and an hour and half to reseed.
One of the things I was told is I need the reseed to cancel any previous fobs the car was programmed to. I don't care if the old fob is out there and could be used for my car. If this is the only reason for reseed I don't want it.
I am confused. Somewhere I think I read that if you don't have any keys then you'll need a reseed no matter what.
I had the black logo fob, not a proximity one.
Why a reseed needs to be done when you have no key to go off, or why you don't.
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I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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Bought a used 2007 Gen II in 2009, and have since that time been very happy and had few issues. However, lately I have noticed some problems that are very disruptive, and am concerned they may be indicating a bigger issue ahead.
I rely very heavily on the GPS, using it every time I drive. In the past few months, I have noticed that sometimes when I start the car, all of my "Previous Destinations" have completely disappeared, and it says "no previous destinations"! Which is insane, because I have been accumulating previous destinations for 6 years now! It is hugely disruptive for me to find these gone, because I reuse many a few times but don't want to save all of them to "My Places." Strangely, My Places are still there, not deleted. The deleted destinations never come back, and I have to painstakingly enter all my addresses again, which is difficult for me because of a disability. In the past few months, this has happened 3 or 4 times! When this happens, the region is also always reselected to zone 9, which I am not in (not sure if that's where the first owner lived?), so I always have to enter everything in all over again.
A few years ago I had to replace the 12V battery, and I can understand why I lost all my memory in that instance. But the battery should be fine.
I have also noticed a few other strange occurrences in the past few months, which may or may not be related. There are times when suddenly the key fob does not work, and I cannot get into the car. The battery is new, so it's not that. I was worried it might indicate an electrical problem, because also a few times now I have gone to start the car and it goes into battery mode instead of turning over - as in, the indicators and lights come up, but the car doesn't start. Fortunately, when I turn it off and start again it has resolved. A few other times, I have started the car and the buttons seem to be crossed - pressing Destination leads to Audio, pressing Menu leads to Map, etc. Again, fortunately I restarted the car and all buttons worked normally again. Same thing, once I started the car and the screen did not turn on at all, just stayed black. Restarted, and it was back on.
So I am wondering what these sudden destination deletions might mean in this context. I am very far away from a dealership, and can't afford a major work-up if it's not necessary. A few possibilities I considered are that the destination cache might zero out when I have not used the car for an extended period. I don't drive every day, and there are some times when I don't use the car for 2 weeks or a little more. I also live in a location by the ocean, and so I have wondered if perhaps the salt air is corroding my electronics. I have tried to rinse the underside of the cab with fresh water every few weeks, but other than that I don't know what I could do to prevent salt damage.
Maybe what's going on with the NAV is totally unrelated to these things, and can be solved simply in another way. I have no clue really what's going on. But I don't want to have to deal with this again. And, if there is reason to think a serious electrical or other problem might be imminent, I would like to know that so I can take care of it before the car gets totaled, because I'd really like to keep my Prius for a long time if I could!
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I've recently had the chance to buy some 'real gas' on a few fill-ups, Canadian gas without ethanol. The graphic shows that I'm getting about 50 mpg on regular E10, but about 58 mpg on the no-ethanol gas. Since E0 has only about 4% less energy than regular E10, getting 15% better mileage doesn't make sense purely from thermodynamics.
Does the Prius computer might be programmed for E0, and therefore possibly doesn't do as well on E10? And if so, can we re-program the computer?
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My girlfriend has a 2006 prius with two fobs, one fob works just fine opens/closes doors and red led illuminates, the other fob does not; I have replaced the cr 2032 battery, and verified that the battery works with a voltmeter. no battery energizes this fob as determined by depressing the membrane switches and NOT seeing any red led illumination. I could possibly fix the circuit if I could separate the two plastic housings.
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On my UK Prius with Nav (uses HDD for Nav System, and includes a DVD / CD reader too), I put my music in MP3 format on a DVD-RW for convenience.
When I turn off the audio by hitting the audio power button, and then turn it back on later the music resumes from a previous point. How far it goes back seems to vary enormously from 10 seconds to 10 minutes (so doubt it goes back by X KBytes for example).
How this is determined, or if I can alter it in some way?
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I have a problem with my 2007 Prius. The low beam and both FOBS for the car quit working at the same time. It worked the previous day as always, then the next morning, the car would not automatically unlock and had to use the FOB mechanical key for entry. Then I noticed that the headlights (LOW)would not turn on, but the high beams worked fine. Just an FYI I have changed the headlights on this car at least 3 times in the past 4 years.
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Smart key fobs do not work in touch mode.
Replaced batteries in both fobs.
Both fobs start the car and lock,unlock and alarm sounds when buttons pushed.
BUT... touching the lock slot on the door or trying to unlock the door by touch does not work.
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The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
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New batts in remotes (remotes do nothing but do start the car when inserted in dash).
12 volt batt removed and tested good at autozone.
Tried the "key" button under steering wheel in both positions still not working..
Checked all fuses under the hood, all OK ...all other items in the car seem to work..
None of the exterior black buttons work..
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The dealer tells me my batteries in my low tire sensors are bad. The low tire light on the dash won't go out. So I need to replace the TPMS sensors in my '06 type 5 Prius. I know I can pick them online much cheaper than at the dealer. My question is, is there some reprogramming that will need to be done. I'm assuming it will be some convoluted sequence with buttons on the dash similar to turning off the backup alarm, etc.
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I know I am unusual but most days I drive about 3-4 miles. I can get 2-3 days out of a charge. Should I plug in every night or just when needed? Does it use more kWh to plug in every day?
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My '08 Prius Touring is in the shop today because the 'check engine' light came on at 68,500 miles. I just got word from them that the catalytic converter is bad and needs replacement. Good thing I bought the extended warranty! Well, I searched the forum for similar problems and it seems like this is somewhat common, albeit on cars with a bit more mileage and maybe a year or more older. I don't abuse my car at all, though I often roll into full-throttle while merging.
Is this a symptom of a poor part design or of a system that fouls the cat over a certain amount of time? I'm not looking forward to replacing it again at 130K after my extended warranty expires.
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I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
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I know the owners manual says 87 octane or higher. I'm only on my third tank of gas but yesterday I think I heard some "pinging" when I needed to catch up with the traffic flow. So far I have been using 87 octane from Raleys Aisle One. (Sacramento area) I think it's a generic gas but not sure where it comes from.....
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The timer built into the Prius needs to be pressed each time a delay is needed ? Is this correct ?
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What is the easiest way to cancel a route once you've entered the address? I like to enter some addresses ahead of time, but not necessarily want to go right away? Is it 'postpone route'?
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So the other day, I noted the OFF was lit up on the sensor cancel button. I can't do anything to get it to quit, and the sensors don't react to objects with a beep. I looked around but couldn't find anything with the terms I used.
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Just serviced an '03 F150 (4.6/4R70/4x4, 129,000 miles) where the shifter had come clean off. I replaced it with the Dorman replacement and had the battery disconnected during replacement just in case.
Once it was all hooked up I put the neg batt cable back on and turned on the key. If I hit the OD button it would only illuminate momentarily, ie so long as I was holding the button. I thought that odd so I started the truck and then hit the button again at which point it blew fuse 29.
I replaced Fuse 29 and now the OD cancel button is illuminated constantly - PRND21, doesn't matter. It will not toggle off. I thought maybe it was the switch itself at the end of the shifter and I just happened to have a new-in-the-sealed-bag Ford OEM switch that I swapped in, but no change. I also pulled the Dorman part again and checked for a short between the three wires that run in the shifter, but they're all good.
Then I pulled Fuse 29 and it still won't shift into OD while driving on the highway.
Oh, I will say it appears to be overfilled, I'm gonna see if I can suck some out of the dipstick tube but I'm not confident an overfill would cause this.
OD cancel light always on (does NOT flash). Will not shift into OD at any speed. No codes.
Basically I think something is wrong mechanically and the truck is trying to say so with the constant OD light.
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How much gas do you put in your tank when your gas gauge's yellow light comes on (Low fuel indicator) in the Prius v (Yes, I am asking specifically concerning the Prius v)?
Would 9.25 US Gal or 35 L sound right to you?
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I have my mirrors set to tilt when I am in reverse but now they are no longer going back to their initial position when I shift from R to D. They always end up too low and require further adjustment. Is there a way to reset/recalibrate the mirrors?
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