Prius (Gen 2) :: Replaced Ballast But Driver Side Burning Pink For A Minute
Nov 26, 2013
We had what seemed like a normal situation with the driver's side burning pink for a minute then going out. I thought it was the bulb, purchased the bulb and the light burned bright, though more yellow than the typical light blue, and then went out.
I replaced the Ballast with a different one, and got the same effect. The HID lights, burns OK for about 20 seconds, starts to pulse a little then shuts off.
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So I started having the issue with my drivers side headlight going out and saw the many threads regarding issues with the bulbs and ballast.
I started out purchasing a new bulb, from ebay TOYOTA PRIUS GENIUNE PART PHILIPS D4R 42406 XENON HID HEADLIGHT LIGHT LAMP OEM
Came in "Toyota" box. Got the bulb in and still had issues with the light turning off... so then I bought the after market ballast and replaced it yesterday. Light still going off.... What to check? Just read the article regarding bulbs, going to pull out the one I just got and have a better look at it.... Not all HID Bulbs are created equal.
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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Car was broken in last night. Went to a near by auto glass shop to get the glass replaced. After the glass replacement, the window will lower half way after it reached the top using the auto up function (pull up and release). It stays up if you hold the switch up. Why that is? Seems to me the jam protection is activated, according to the manual.
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What's up Lexus enthusiasts and fellow owners I own a 08 LS. Today I noticed that my driver side headlight goes out , I turn it off and turned it back on and it's good to go but after a minute it turns off. This could be a bad ballast . How to change a ballast or headlight bulb in an LS before? Is there a link that I can go to and check it out ? Or this is one of those that the bumper has to come off .
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I am getting a burning smell from the drivers side rear wheel. It does not seem to occur all of the time but when it does, when I get out of the truck I can smell it. We found its location just by smelling around the truck.
The brakes are not noticeably grinding and I don't recall ever getting a smell like this from brakes.
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After smelling burning for a few days randomly, I've narrowed it down to the rear driver side wheel. After about on the highway, I stopped, and it is HOT! I pulled the wheel but the hub spins easily 1/16th of a turn or so, as it's in park, so the brakes are not dragging. What else this could be? Or are they dragging at random? The rotor is perfect, no rust and no groves, so hte pads are doing their job. 1/16th of a turn is way exaderation, but it can move. Also there's no sounds at all.
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I have a '90 Bronco II w/ the 2.9L V6 with a head/gasket issue leak. Its burning oil/coolant in #3 cylinder drivers side. I would ask this in the B2 section, but the Ranger section seems to have alot more activity.
I'm wondering what my options are. I'd like to replace the head with a better aftermarket design if possible. I've seen World Products mentioned as a good replacement, but they are no longer making them anymore. Nearest I cant tell, that leaves King and Odessa aka Clearwater heads. On the 'bay Odessa doesn't have the greatest feedback. King looks like a good product, but kinda spendy also. Short of those two, re-man is the only other option.
The casting # on my head doesn't line up either, is the 86TM the better Euro head for the Merkur?
If I keep this engine, w/o doing a 4.0L conversion, I'm tempted to replace both cylinder heads because of the amount of work to tear it down to that point.
This motor has had some valve ticking also, but I've read it can be injectors instead. What should I do? This will only be used as an off highway light trail rig.
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I have a question about smelling burning oil. I have a 2005 passat 1.8t (4 motion) with 80,000 miles. Once in a while I smell what smells to be burning oil. It usually happens when the car is warm and sits and idles for a min. like when you would be at a stop sign and doesn't last long. There doesn't seem to be any blue smoke coming from the exhaust either....
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Just like the title states, there is an intense burning smell (like plastic or electronic) inside my 2007 chevrolet equinox. I first noticed it this morning; last night there was no smell. The smell is most intense on the driver's side under the steering column. I checked the fuses and none of them are blown and everything seems to be working on the interior of the car. I am having electrical issues with the back windshield wiper not working and the passenger airbag seat indicator not working, but both of those issues have been going on for a while now. The only other issue I know of is that sometimes (but not every time) my key won't come out of the ignition when I turn the egine off. To get it out, I push the little release button on the interior of the steering column. I have been doing this for about a year now, but I wouldn't think that that would have anything to do with a burning smell....
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When starting up my 2011 F-250 Gas, I have a burning smell coming from my vents for about a minute then it goes away. It smells like new electronics. My A/C seems extra cold as well. We just got back from a 3800 mile vacation. Its been going on now for about 3 weeks and never changes...
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After weeks of receiving an alert about my battery being low on my key fob I finally replaced the battery. But the drivers side door won't lock. The car does start, and even after you put it in reverse the doors still won't lock.
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I have an 07 Prius and the headlights started going out so I bought new HID D4R bulbs and they do the same thing. I want to replace the ballasts. How to do this? Any thing special about it?
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My 2007 SWB LS 460 with 22,000 miles on it has required replacement of the driver's side door hinges twice and the passenger front door hinges once. This is obviously of concern, since the original fix on the driver's side failed again within 8 months. The car has light single driver use. My dealer says that Lexus "knows about" the problem.
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I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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I noticed some "pink residue" while changing my oil this evening. Is this a coolant leak? I'm not sure what parts are pictured, but I'm guessing that is the water pump area since the pink residue is also inside a pulley.
I currently have 85K miles on my 2008 and purchased the extended warranty which pushes it out to 100K. QUESTION: If it is a coolant leak would this be covered under the extended "Platinum" warranty I purchased?
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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This is weird, I just replaced my ICE water pump 2 months ago and now upon inspection, I notice there is pink seepage coming out of the pump again. Although it's a very very slight amount, but being the fluid is pink, I can see the stuff coming out again.
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2004 Car has 106,800 miles and for the last several weeks, when I'm stuck in traffic, like trying to get into the Lincoln or Holland Tunnel, the battery seems to go from 7 blue bars to two pink bars within five to seven minutes. Used to be that it took 3 five-minute bars of traffic, running fully electric at 100 mpg, to then go down to 2 pink, when the ICE would run and charge the battery. Today the battery indicators went down to 2 pink after sitting in traffic with the AC on and stayed there for the remainder of the time we sat in traffic - another 45 minutes or so.
The ICE would run at idle sometimes, but didn't seem to bring the battery back up unless we were really moving. A couple of times I held the brake with my left foot, revved the engine with my right, and that seemed to bring the battery up a couple bars. After we finally got going on the highway, the battery recovered. I got no warning lights, no triangles. But I'm wondering if these are symptoms of the battery failing. Time to get it tested at the dealership?
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My 2004 just developed a coolant leak. The past couple times I've moved the car, there's been a small pink puddle under where the engine was. The leak seems to be coming from a weep hole positioned between the two bolts of the lower engine mount. The hole is circled in red in both pics.
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